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Published: April 21st 2024
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We were excited to start our search for the elusive Spotted Beeb-Eater, also known as a leopard, given the boastful claims made by Yala National Park that it has the highest concentration of SBEs in the world(?). What they don’t mention in the brochure is that the Beeb-Eaters have chosen this part of the world to congregate because it also has a very high concentration of forest. And safari vehicles. Which does not make spotting a Spotted Eater an easy task!
We had a slow drive to our camp, not because of traffic or any actual impediment, but because we were apparently early. We should have made the most of the aircon while we had it, because once we arrived, it was like a furnace. We were able to enjoy some lunch in the shade before a short rest in Hades and then we set off on our search. Thankfully the moving vehicle and open sides brought some relief from the oppressive heat.
Soon enough we forgot about the heat as we encountered some elephants on the road blocking the traffic. Soon we were at the park and encountered several groups of spotted deer, loads of peacocks, water buffalo
and a number of birds. It was a pleasant drive around the park, with several stops in the hope that the alarm calls made by the deer and monkeys would result in the SBE revealing itself right in the middle of the road in front of us…because 2m either side and there was no chance!
And what do you know?! Just after we’d stopped to watch an eagle taking a bath in a puddle, our guide’s excited call of “leopard, leopard” had us all looking in the middle of the road ahead…and there he was! We sped towards him but he was too quick and obviously camera shy as he bounded up the rock opposite, briefly peering down at us before he disappeared into the surrounding forest. He was huge! And much darker and browner than his African cousin. But we had achieved what many who come to Yala had not!
A great start and we headed back to camp for our private dining in front of the campfire…because what we really needed was more heat! A night walk around the camp was interesting - a massive tarantula and a mini bat were out to play, but that
too made us very sweaty. Lucky our tents had powerful fans which cooled us into the evening.
An early start to avoid the heat and continue our search. No sooner had we passed the gate and a miracle occurred - the child who was unable to spot either her hat or her water bottle lying beside her closed suitcase before our departure, spotted a Beeb-Eater in the thick scrub. Unfortunately he was quick and only the guide managed to see him before he disappeared. Apparently this Eater - Rala - is so elusive that they haven’t seen him in 2 months. Much like Eloise’s bedroom floor. Perhaps he has her hat.
We then spent the rest of the day channeling the musings of some old Italian bloke…but neither divine nor a comedy it was. Hours were spent driving round on bumpy dusty roads in the heat and it was too hot for animals, so it did beg the question why we were out in it. A few high points - a beautiful stop for breakfast overlooking a large lake filled with birds coming and going, a mini crocodile who had caught a frog and was swimming along with
it close to the surface, a monkey invasion while we stopped for a toilet break (in the truck, not the toilet), watching an elephant take a swim (we were very envious, well, except for the crocodiles) and a very chilled elephant having his afternoon snack. Some relief was offered around lunchtime when we stopped near the sea for a rest in a giant concrete bunker, but we were back at it before too long. Although it had cooled down considerably by the end, we were very pleased to be back at camp and having cold showers and relaxing in front of powerful fans. Another delicious dinner by the campfire and we were very ready to sleep off the day’s exhaustion!
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