Our First Afternoon on Jeju-do

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'It's the "Hawaii" of South Korea' we kept hearing about this tiny little island off the southern peninsulas' tip. But how good could it be? Lonely Planet only submitted 22-pages of information. Nonetheless we booked roundtrip tickets on Jeju Airlines http://www.jejuair.com for 120,000 won per person. "Set against a tropical backdrop of swaying palm trees, sandy beaches and towering volcanic features... are quickly discovering this island paradise and the warm hospitality of its native population," states LP's writer Cesar Soriano.

Sounds wonderful doesn't it?

I read Jeju's chapter twice adding yellow highlighter to interesting bits of information then forced Shauna to read it. Our good friends Uro and Justin, reassured us transportation was easy-peasy on the island with the vast network of island buses. But we'd heard from Keith and Mary that a car or scooter would increase our overall enjoyment.

Packing light we skipped the dueling bus routes and called a taxi. Twenty-two minutes later we arrived at Gimpo International Airport for 15,600 won. Boarding passes in hand we searched for food. Grabbed a bowl of noodles at eBiz Snack shop and headed for the gate and eventually were lead down to the tarmac to enter the plane. Less than 60 minutes later we stood next to Jeju Internationals' Tourist Information booth seeking pamphlets to help arrange our five day itinerary.

Opting for a rental scooter. We searched the airports free internet access. Then called one location nearest. "No English," the guy offered Shauna when she called. "How about a car rental?" But they denied us a car and told us we needed either a Korean License or an International Driver's License. Accidentally, I let a little giggle slip out because I once had an International Driver's License while living in Japan. It allowed me to drive legally on 112 different countries roads without any knowledge of that countries road rules. The good was I drove in Japan but ended up in two minor fender-benders both could have been avoided had I known all the road rules. But at least I had my license!

Smiling we searched for the bus. Our first bus ride took us to the inner city Bus Terminal. From here we caught a bus leaving in ten minutes to Seongsan Ilchulbong to visit a spectacular extinct volcano, forty-two kilometers away.

Paying our 3,000 won we were asked to wait with our tickets in hand. Perusing the snack shop we grabbed water, chips and treats for the road in case hunger struck. Standing in front of chocolate my mind was fed up with decisions. A kid grabbed a green box in front of me. Without hesitation, I picked up the same box. Kids always know best.

Fifteen minutes to three our bus turned right onto an alley street to begin our island journey. Assuming we were on the 1132 coastal bus route I sat reading my copy of John Stackhouse's "Timbit Nation: A Hitchhiker's View of Canada."

"Aaron," Shauna's voice interrupted, "are we going the correct way?" Looking up, pine trees screamed past. "Certainly looks like we are lost. Did we get on the correct bus?" I replied pulling out the island route map. Starring out my window looking for road signs, destinations, mileage markers anything to give us a hint of where we were? Spotting a sign it stated "1116." Shit! We weren't on the coastal road. Where were we? And where were we heading? I pulled the map over searching the bus routes. Spotting the problem, I laughed. "We are on the inlet roads still heading in the correct direction."

Just before four o'clock our tree lined road broke its pattern into a flat farm field stretching out in front of us. That's when I saw the hill sitting on the shores edge. It stuck out like a sore thumb. No way anyone could miss it. Approaching town we sat unsure of when close enough was enough. We held out until spotting a sign for the ticket office. Climbing off the bus we referenced LP's hotel choices. Two sounded decent both having views of the hill.

Turning a corner Shauna paused pulling her camera out and sighting a shot of town and crater mountain. Stopping I smiled taking a quick shot or two as well. Revolving around an ajumma stood behind Shauna two hands resting in prayer next to her tilted head. "Hey, are you talking to her?" I asked unsure of what was going on. "Who?" Shauna replied turning to see the ajumma closing in on her, her hands still displaying the sleeping sign. Quickly she spoke to us in rapid fire Korean. "Think she wants us to stay at her place?" "Should we check it out?" "Why not?" Following her back towards the bus stop, along main street we went. Ajumma, Shauna, me. "Where did she come from?" I inquired to no one in particular. "You got me? I had my eyes on the hill through my lens." We laughed.

Pausing at a random door along main street the ajumma asked us to climb three flights of stairs. Reaching the door I offered Shauna to look at the room her tastes a bit picker than mine on the road. "What do you think?" I said not wanting to take off my sandals. "It's okay. El Mi-yo (how much)? ," Shauna asked. "Saum-chon won," came the reply. "Seriously 30,000 for this. anni-yo (no). " Grabbing her shoes the woman frowned. Down three flights of stairs onto main street we went. "Not to your liking?" "Did you see that place? And for that price?" "Enough said."

Back on the street we wandered in search of Seongsanpo Village with its "wonderful view of the sea and anything going on along the harbour." Two turns later we spotted balconies of a lonely hotel in one direction and the crater in the other. "That has to be it," I said. Reaching the front door Shauna phonetically tried reading 성산포빌리지 ... Se-o-S-an-p... "this is the place."

Ducking a head into the bottom floor restaurant heads swiveled looking at me without any response. Deciding perhaps the reception desk was upstairs we began climbing stairs when we ran into an ajumma. "Do you have room?" we said simultaneously. She smiled gesturing up stairs. Showing us two rooms. One in front 40,000 won, one in back 50,000 won. Both rooms had double beds, a kitchenette, dining table, a bathroom and a view of the crater or town. "Which do you want?" I asked. "Lets take the view," Shauna replied. We paid upfront, were handed a key and unwound from the adventure of travel. "Hey look at the bright side, we didn't need to use a ferry today," I sarcastically stated as I began to laugh.

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Photos

Pre-Departure
Inside Gimpo International Airport

Well Being
sweet bean paste snack