Singapore through the Haze

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The last time I was in Singapore, in 2009, I slept on the top bunk of a 8 bed dorm in Little India, a room with no air conditioning and access to a communal bathroom. This time I stayed in the 5 star Intercontinental Hotel, expenses paid. I had come along way since my Backpacking days. I was here courtesy of my work, and so was on a very different kind of trip this time, but I still hoped to experience a bit of the city whilst I was here.

I arrived on the Sunday after 24 hours travelling from Manchester. My first impression of the city was a good one. If there is one thing that almost all travelers will see upon entering a new City it will be the route from the airport to the city centre. It always amazes me that the Manchester council don't do something about some of the horrible views visitors will get travelling that route by car - motorways, concrete hotels from the 70's, council estates. Singapore did it right, and it gives a lovely first impression; wide, tree-lined boulevards, parks, golf courses, a yachting clubs, and finally a bridge that provides lovely views of the marina. A good first impression.

After checking in to the hotel I took of wandering the streets around the area. This was very different to little India, with it's narrow, congested streets, bustling with street markets and the smell of rich spices. This area represents the new modern Singapore, with vast air-conditioned shopping malls, expensive restaurants, and large skyscrapers.

I wandered through the area at random but I really could have been in the Trafford centre back in Manchester, with all the brightly lit shops & young people hanging out with their friends. However, I eventually found my way to the Bugis Street market & this reminded me of the real Asia, of market stalls selling cheap clothes & trinkets and cheap local food. A ate chicken, duck & rice in a sweet chili sauce, which was delicious in the company of a Filipino guy who told me he was on his way back to Manila after completing a marathon in Stockholm. When I commented that that was a long way to travel for a marathon he just laughs & says 'Yeah, it was'.

The rest of the week was spent working. I was at the Broadcast Asia trade convention held at the Marina Bay Sands hotel - probably the most amazing hotel I've ever seen. It looks like a giant Hindenburg aircraft sat on top of 3 massive, glass mirrors that are buckling under the weight. Apparently, at the top, there is an infinity pool with views over the whole city & marina area. It's supposed to be amazing. Unfortunately I never got to go.

We worked there during the day & the night was spent taking clients to dinner. By about Wednesday, I began to notice the haze in the city starting to draw in. Forest fires on the nearby Indonesian island of Sumatra were drifting over the southern Malay peninsular and severely affecting the city. Visibility over the Marina was extremely poor and breathing became difficult. Pollution levels rose to unprecedented levels. It was strange to witness, and actually quite unpleasant to be out in. Like standing next to a bonfire inhaling the smoke. Schools were closed & face masks were handed out. It meant you couldn't really go outside & that nothing was visible even if you did. It was a shame, because I'd been hoping to see some of the city in the few hours after the show & before my flight home. I was, however, relieved that I didn't have to live there at that point. Singapore is a lovely, vibrant, lively and modern city. But there was rumours that the smog could be there for weeks. I didn't envy the people who lived there.

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