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Published: June 14th 2008
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1984
I love this building White clean cut and a very Orwell concept - Hybrid Authoritarian System It’s probably cheating a little to blog a business trip but Singapore took me by surprise. I had expected a clinical, high rise uncharming city to be a sort of Hong Kong with all the fun taken out -and while Singapore has these element to degree it is certainly has some life, soul and a character of its own... yes it is true that chewing gum is illegal and public nudity is an punishable offense (think Nick Leason) but these really minor details.
Singapore is a hybrid of a of democratic and authoritarian system where since gaining independence in the late 50’s only the Peoples Action Party has ever been in power. Free speech is not totally free and not only is capital punishment still practiced Singapore is the highest per cap in the world... even more concerning seeing as Singapore does not have Jurey trials. Trade however is very free and is what Singapore’s vast prosperity is grounded on with the worlds busiest sea port and competing with HK for the 4th largest financial center.
From the moment you step off the plane the benefits of a semi authoritarian state become apparent. Everything is well designed, works and
has a central cohesion about it. I like to speak to taxi drivers when I’m away and had quite a number of good conversations. They are all very happy with their lifes and loved telling me about Singapore.... the first four taxi rides I had everyone gave me their mobile number after that I decided to ride in the back.
One part of Singaporean life that I found the most interesting was Housing Development Board. Singapore consists of a centre like most cities but surrounding it are many self contained estates. Each estate will have one or two major employers, a shopping mall, a swimming pool, a Badminton Centre (the sport seems a national obsession) and other such amenities. This is very much like the Le Corbusier ideals tried in Europe in the 50-70’s - but where the west has failed Singapore has succeeded or perhaps the D utch. While hearing this HDB concept for the first time I immediately thought of the Le Corbusier (yes i had to google the name) It is actually a Dutch Economist Winsemius who started the HDB program and convinced many of the main employers to set up factories. Singaporeans feel very strongly
Food Court
Another nice example of Sinapores old architecture about the HDB and every citizen once married has a right to buy a subsidised apartment once married or over 30. Although they will now own the property they are not allowed to sell it for 10years and when they do any profits must go into their state pension. So these estates unlike their western equivalents are full of employment, community and pride... they also like the rest of Singapore have very low crime rates - all of which is what probably makes them a success rather than mecca of drugs, crime and desperation. I told one taxi driver there are estates in England where the police are afraid to go he couldn’t quite comprehend this.
So what did I get upto outside of Taxis and Work? Well the first night in town i made it over to the Ministry of Sound which was a very cool but very Asian club. It was slightly amusing to observe the dance floor and how in the space of one song it went from empty to full. On my last day I went to another western clubby import of Cafe Del Mar - both were really an exercise in box ticking.
I tried to get around as many areas as I could - A meal out in Little India in a restaurant called the Banana Leaf... where I asked the unfortunately question ‘can I have a plate’ to which the surprised response was ‘no sir you use the banana leaf’. I had a quick walk round China Town and a shop round Orchard Road. I went to the Botanical Gardens and the Eastern Costal Park both of which are very important Singaporeans leisure.
Like most of developed Asia Singapore is obsessed with levels of service and wealth. If you have money you do or have anything as long as it is not against the law - a point where perhaps Singapore separates itself from the rest of Asian. The number of Super Cars I saw while there was incredible but not one would breech the speed limit.
So there is my a blog a bit disjointed and a ramble but very much a county to learn from... Would I ever live there? The humidity that I haven’t really mentioned is very hard to bear and without seasons I can imagine life would lose some colour. There are many ex
pats over there who live a fantastic life and i think if you come over from London you can’t help but be addicted but from Sydney perhaps some of the upside is gone.
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