Discovering Siargao

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Something I wrote last year, that I want to share with my Aussie friends. Surf's Up! 😊

Discovering a Surfing Paradise: Siargao


Who would have thought that a small chocolate bar can put a tiny Philippine island on the map of the world?

Perhaps it was destiny that led American adventurer Mike Boyam into the shores of Siargao, stumbling on the surfing paradise while on a 40-day fast on the island in the late eighties. Sadly he died after extending his hunger days for far too long. Maybe if he also discovered the Cloud 9 chocolate bar in the local sari-sari store that American photographer John S. Callahan and fellow surfers Evan Slater and Taylor Knox have taken for sustenance while surfing the great waves in 1992, he would have survived too. But who knows?

Of one thing I am certain and that is Callahan did a great job naming the now famous surfing haven - Cloud Nine - after the chewy Filipino chocolate bar that allowed him to survive Siargao island, which was then a jungle, but had some of the most awesome waves the world has ever known.

The photos and article that Callahan published in the US Surfer's Magazine in 1994 did much to spread the word around about their great "discovery." Perhaps to the dismay of other explorers who have discovered it too but prefer to keep the island to themselves. Still who can keep a beautiful secret for too long? Since the publication, professional surfers have come from all over the world with other photographers in tow, making Cloud Nine more famous abroad as a destination than the whole of the Philippines.

It is the same spirit of adventure that Callahan and his companions possessed that one should take along with them should they decide to travel to the island. The same spirit of discovery I packed into my backpack on our way to Siargao. For the journey and the destination was exactly that, one great adventure and the best travel advice to consider is would be an open mind.

From the daily Asian Spirit 9 a.m. flight from Manila to Surigao del Norte, travelers are already blessed with a bird's eye view of the greenest mountains and the bluest ocean surrounding Mindanao, one of the three main islands in the country. Siargao is a small island off its north-eastern tip, a tropical hideaway peppered with coconut trees. To get there one must take a 4-hour boat ride which leaves at noon from Surigao province. The water journey to Siargao island and back is a scenic journey where one can see surrounding islands and lush mangroves from the ferry. I, for one, was quite amused to see waves going about in different ways, some turning in a circle like a whirlpool, only to find out that island's Pacific Ocean-facing reefs are situated on the edge of the Philippine Trench, having extremely deep waters, around 10,000 meters deep. That’s Mt. Everest turned upside down plus another 3,000 feet!

It is assuring to know that visitors do arrive safely and sound at the Port of Dapa in the island of Siargao. We came into the late afternoon and took a 20-minute tricycle ride into the municipality of General Luna which culminated a whole day journey to see the famous Cloud Nine. The travel took on a physical toll as my companions and I just had to call it a day and we rested at Patrick's on the beach resort, 3 kilometers away from the surfing area (Cloud Nine) in the town of Catangnan.

Early morning found us at the wooden jetty at Cloud Nine to look for the waves and the surfers but found none. We had not realized then that waves were dependent on the weather and the tides, and it is best to research first in the internet to see when the waves will be at its best. (See Yahoo! weather or www.patrickonthebeach.com for a surf forecast on Cloud 9). Luckily we bump into friendly Australian Gerry Degan who owns the Sagana Resort, one of the better known resorts along the Cloud Nine area. He was also the event coordinator for the International Surfing Competition held every September, now on its 13th year. Like most of the foreigners who have discovered the island and fell in love with the place, he and his wife Susan and baby Lily stay in Siargao for most of the year, returning only to Sydney during the Australian summer.

Gerry talked excitedly about the recently held surfing competition despite a hang-over from all the merriment. He advises us to go back in the afternoon when all the surfers come back to the sea at high tide. He talks about the perfect barrel in which Siargao is famous for.

"When the wave tubes over you, you have to get inside the curl of the wave and ride through it," Gerry explains. That's the ultimate surfing experience that brought some 36 international surfers from Australia, Hawaii, the United States, Japan and Europe to the now surfing capital of the country. Gerry says, the surfing there is unbelievable, having the best surf break - a barreling right hander - in the surfing world.

On beautiful surfing days, one can catch the world-class wave which the locals describe as seawater curling into the outline of a number 9 with its tip turning to froth like clouds, true to its name Cloud 9.

When the famous surfing area turns to "Crowd Nine" in the peak months from August until end of November, and the Easter Season from April to May, surfers explore the island and find other waves to ride. A short boat ride from Cloud 9 out into nearby Rock Island, Stimpy's and find other breaks stretching right up to the east coast to Pilar, Pacifico and Burgos allows one to catch a good wave anytime of the year.

Australian surfer Wade Goodall who won the surfing cup with a $7,500 prize money from event sponsors Billabong and the Surigao provincial government, was all satisfied and happy: "It's a great event to be a part of. It is a great place, I love it. Salamat, Siargao," he exclaims.

What's a Non-Surfer Got to Do?

Watching surfers from around the world embracing the waves of Siargao is a delight to watch. But what's one to do when he or she doesn't surf?

"You can stay here for a month and we can take you on different tours everyday," says Andreas Mikoleiczik, German owner of Patrick's on the Beach resort who married a beautiful Filipina, Elizabeth. I've learned that the charming and rustic island have a lot of gifts to offer the traveler willing to spend quality time with her. Patrick's, for instance, has recently discovered Yohoho! Islands and Lagoon where couples and friends can enjoy a picnic or have a “pirate's feast” prepared by the resort, while cherishing the tranquil lagoon.

One can also take on a refreshing three island tour to Guyam, Dako and Naked islands for swimming, snorkeling, diving and deep-sea fishing. One can explore Guyam island in as little as five minutes for it is a tiny white island with no inhabitants, a great venue for the cast of the Pirates of the Carribean.

Dako, on the other hand, is an island with about 300 fishing families. It is great for snorkeling and surfing for beginners. Local surfers acting as tour guides also teach surfing lessons at P500 an hour with a guarantee that the student will be able to stand on his or her surf board after the session or your money back.

Naked Island, also called Pansukian island, has a pristine white sandbar that is some 200 meters long and is embraced by turquoise clear waters with massive coral reefs. Sohoton Cave located in the northern part of Siargao is also a beautiful place to explore along with its hidden treasures - exotic flaura and fauna and a rich marine life present in the area. Located in Bucas Grande (about 90 minutes from Cloud Nine), Sohoton cave has tunnels and lagoons, a jellyfish lake and a rainforest canopy that you can explore. One may also go kayaking along the largest mangrove forest reserves in Mindanao found in the town of Del Carmen.

One can arrange for island tours through their resorts or ring Jing Gurrobat (0910-2596493) for a half-day tour of Guyam, Dako, and Pansukian at PHP 1,500. Dodong Digman (0921-3246415) can also take you to an adventure to Sohoton Cave for PhP5,000 along with a rented boat.

Because of its deep waters, Siargao Island is also great for deep sea fishing expeditions. The island has an abundance of marine life such as the yellow fin tuna, mahi-mahi, and tanigue.

When not surfing, people here just chill, sleep on a hammock and spend time with one another while discovering the lost art of slow and meaningful conversations. Good companionship and partaking of good food together have got to be the best part of any journey.

Surfing the Palate

It's good to know that no surfer or traveler will starve in Siargao as the food choices have greatly improved from the usual chocolate bars to a variety of international cuisines being offered in the resorts.

"The quality of the food on this island is better than anywhere else in the Philippines," says David Motbey, one of the pioneers in the area and owner of the premier spot Cloud Nine Resort. He also happened to be surfing along with John Callahan when they first discovered the island and christened it Cloud Nine. Motbey shares that he has been to other places in the Philippines, and nothing compares to the depth of cuisine found here. Since many foreigners have started building their homes and resorts in Siargao, they have inevitably brought their native tastes along.

"They've got an international taste to the food. They make food good here," says David for a fact. Ocean 101 resort, also found along the Cloud Nine strip, gets lots of foreign guests. "Our customers suggest what to include in our menu and teach us how to cook it," shares its Filipino manager Michael. Their resort started as a small canteen in 2001 and has since evolved into a full-blown resort. Most resorts here have restaurants open to walk-in guests from other resorts.

Frenchman Nicolas Rambeau who built Pansukian Tropical Resort serves French cuisine while the Australians in the island are putting on their own food in the menu. Aussie David swears by his restaurant's Thai-inspired mango curry chicken, chicken and pork snitzels, and the local kinilaw which is fresh fish smothered in vinegar.

At Patrick's on the Beach, everything is also served fresh. A coconut is picked from its tree upon order of a buko juice. Since the food is prepared only upon ordering, expect 30 to 45 minutes waiting time. Their five-finger shell fish adobo rice, homemade yoghurt and Yohoho! mango rum are enough to welcome you into the refreshing island. The mango rum will definitely jumpstart your stay here with the tangy, strong kick of local gin tempered by the sweetness of real mango bits. Interestingly, some of the proceeds from the Yohoho! rum, P325 per bottle, will provide 5 nutritious meals to poor families with P50 going to the care of the environment, as part of the resort's efforts to give back to the community.

Sagana Reost is famous for its Seafood Mezze of sesame tempura garfish with ginger mirin dipping sauce and yellow fin tuna tataki. Siargao Inn’s bar owned by Filipino female surfing champ Nildie with German husband Rico also serves great food and drinks. The Flying Fox bar is a must-see as when the dusk falls, flying bats fly over it from a nearby cave. No, they don’t serve bats, but the food is great.

If you are craving for fresh seafood, the wet market is the place to find freshly caught fish especially tuna. You may buy fresh seafood and have them cooked in the small eateries near the wet market. You may also ask your resort to steam the fish wrapped in banana leaves or to cook them with dill herb so abundantly growing in the town like grass. "Pasayan," a local term for shrimp is also abundant in Siargao and even better tasting if freshly cooked.

One must not leave, however, without partaking of the "Surfer's Bread," a bread shaped like a surfing board, which is made in the homes by the natives of the island. Try get some at the local bakery or at Shat's Guest House along General Luna where they serve visitors this bread.

Having seen the surfing paradise myself and touring the town via a bumpy but nice ride on the habal-habal (motorbike), I sure am glad I had taken a step out of my comfort zone. Sure, there are risks to be taken when one goes on an adventure. Yet without these necessary risks, one cannot stumble upon some exciting discoveries along the way. Like the early surfers who ventured into the unknown, I learned it only takes a leap, or in this case, a surf of faith.

Side Bar:
Where to Stay?
General Luna, the small town where Cloud Nine is located is a rural countryside where friendly locals reside. There are many young ones playing merrily about. Most resorts are found along the surfing area while some are located some 3 kilometers away. Most give a 10% discount off their regular rates in the lean months and up to 15% if you stay for a week or more.

Budget travelers can opt for middle-priced accommodations ranging from PhP 500 per night budget rooms to P3,500 per night for superior rooms. Most resorts offer rustic, basic beach houses. Some cottages are made of bamboo and nipa. Some rooms are concrete with basic bed and ceiling fan. Superior rooms have air conditioning but can be unnecessary when people are out catching the waves or exploring the island most of the time. The resorts have good bathrooms with running water, a far cry from the early days when the island had no potable water and electricity. Now, some resorts have internet connection which one can use for free or for a fee, a great amenity for those who want to escape to a tropical hideaway but still want to connect to the world.

CherrieNicole Resort in General Luna has a swimming pool for those who want to swim indoors and cannot swim in the rocky shores of Cloud Nine. For those who want luxury accommodation, Pansukian Tropical Resort is an option. The resort has 5 villas and 3 garden cottages overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Getting Around:

Asian Spirit flies daily to Surigao Del Norte from Manila at 9 in the morning, enough time to catch the 11:30 am ferry ride to Siargao Island. From Surigao airport, the Eva Macapagal Passenger Terminal is 20 minutes away. As of this writing, there are only two boats, Montenegro Lines and Angel, which travels daily to Siargao Island. The ride costs P200 and takes 3 to 4 hours. Upon arrival in Siargao Island at the port of Dapa, one can take the tricycle for P25 pesos at 7 people max for a 20 minute travel time on well paved road to the municipality of General Luna where Cloud Nine resorts are located in the town of Catangnan.

To get around the town General Luna, hitch on a habal-habal (motor bike) for P10 each person and P20 going to Pansukian, around 7 kilometers away from Cloud Nine. A hired van will cost P3,500 per day. You can also rent a tricycle for P250 for half a day and P500 for the whole day. Tricycles are not readily available outside the resorts except those located in the Cloud Nine surfing area. It will be best to contract a tricycle or habal-habal upon arrival for a bigger group.

For a tour around Siargao island, you can rent the habal-habal for P500 whole day or be toured around by a local guide for P800 using his habal-habal. Contact Jing Gurrobat (0910-2596493), Dodong Digman (0921-3246415) or Arcelito Blase (0918-4344831) to help you get around on their habal-habal or tricycle.

Getting back to Surigao city from Siargao is no mean feat especially when you've grown accustomed to the relaxing time at the island where time seems to stand still. Please note that the boat to Surigao leaves early at 5:45 am and another one at 6:30 am. Don’t be late or you’ll have to wait another day.

And while you’re waiting for your flight back to Manila via Asian Spirit’s 1 pm flight, you may opt to go around Surigao city and drop by the wet market to buy fresh fruits such as the delectable mangosteen at P40 per kilo and lanzones at P25 per kilo.

Travel Tips:

1. Have enough cash on hand. There are no automated teller machines (ATM) in Siargao as of writing. It means you must also consider changing your currency before you get to the island Siargao. There is a Western Union in the town of Dapa in Siargao where you can send and receive wire money transfers. You will receive your money in Peso currency. Major banks and ATM are found in Surigao City which is a 4-hour boat ride away. Some of the resorts accept credit cards but most prefer to be paid cash. Patrick's on the Beach provides cash advance on all major credit cards and can change most currencies including US Traveler checks.

2. Buy your boat ticket in advance. The boat going back to Surigao from Siargao Island leaves very early at 5:45 and 6:30 in the morning. It would be best to buy your ticket at the Dapa port the day before you leave so as to avoid the inconvenience of having no seats and standing up throughout the 4-hour journey. This is inevitable during the peak season when there are plenty of travelers in the island. You can buy your ferry ticket for the next day's trip (P200 one-way) after the current boat leaves. Allow ample time to get to the port area, leave your resort 30 minutes in advance.

3. Bring First Aid Kit. Since it is a tropical hideaway and the nearest hospital is in Surigao city, do take with you a first aid kit to address possible scrapes and injuries while surfing or island hopping. Also bring anti-nausea medicines to help you during the boat ride going to the island. It would also be best to bring and apply a mosquito repellant lotion to protect you from the itchy bite for a relaxing sleep throughout the night. Include sunblock and moisturising lotion as staples for visiting a tropical hideaway. For emergencies, there is a health care center offering first aid at the Boulevard in General Luna.

4. Bring a Flashlight. A flashlight and alkaline batteries will come in handy as the island experiences occasional power failure.

5. Stock up on Load. Pre-paid mobile subscribers are advised to bring enough cell phone credits to the island as it can get difficult to get load around especially when there are many people needing them during peak months.


Calendar Notes: Surf’s Up in Siargao

4th Siargao Girls International Surfing Fest > Summer 2008
10th Siargao National Surfing Cup > September 2008
Billabong Cloud 9 Invitational, 14th Siargao International Surfing Cup > September 2008

See http://surfpinoy.blogspot.com for updated schedules.

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