Bohol Chronicles: Of Dolphins and Near Death Experiences


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Asia » Philippines » Bohol » Pamilacan Island
February 22nd 2006
Published: October 19th 2006
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Morning Sunrise by the Baclayon PortMorning Sunrise by the Baclayon PortMorning Sunrise by the Baclayon Port

While waiting for our boat to arrive.
Day 2 in Bohol! Time to meet the dolphins down at Pamilacan Island!

Rob and I arranged (well, I mostly did the actual arranging) for a boat trip to play with the dolphins with the Baclayon Island Hopping, Dolphin and Whale Watching. They’re a travel and tours company that arranges trips with the locals of the island. They hire experienced boatmen and spotters from the island who used to hunt the whales and the dolphins. Since it is now illegal to do so, they are now using their hunting skills in spotting them for tourists.

We woke up around 430ish to get ourselves ready since our ride was scheduled to arrive around 530am. Breakfast was part of our hotel package from Palakbayan, so we trotted to the restaurant and ate a so-so meal while waiting for our transfers. Hotel freebies aren't always that magnificent since you have a slightly limited selection of what you can get. Anyhow, they served native Tsokolate or Tablea (chocolate drink) as they call it there, so that was an upper!

The trip basically starts at the town of Baclayon, which is about 7km away from Tagbilaran. It was early morning and the whole town was still quiet. While riding
AmorAmorAmor

While the spotters were looking for the Dolphins, I had my picture taken with our lovable guide.
the cab, look at your right, and you will see the sea. I would suggest you let the wind blow in your face and then you can smell the crispness and freshness of the morning. I love mornings in Bohol!

When we got to Baclayon, the cab stopped in front of the agency's office. Our guide was waiting there. She got in and then introduced himself. Amor is a homosexual who we will find, as we progress onto the trip, a very queer fellow! And I loved him! One phrase that he said that is worth mentioning lest I forget it is ”Good morning, Mr. and Mrs. Valenciano!"

Rob and I looked at each other and laughed profusely. One. We are not married. Two. My surname is Valenciano and his is Tagarino! It was funny to be mistaken as a married couple; it's a lot more hilarious for Rob (the guy) to be taking my surname in marriage instead of the other way around!

Anyhow, we then drove a very short distance to the Baclayon Port where the arranged boatmen from Pamilacan Island were waiting. According to Amor, the dolphins play/feed from 6-9 am and that
Pamilacan IslandPamilacan IslandPamilacan Island

On our way to the Island. If you look closely, the teeny weenie thing at our back is it!
the boat trip to their playground would take about 30mins-1hr. That was a long boat ride, but it was a clear and chilly morning so Rob and I just sat back and relaxed.

By the time we got to their playpen, which was well... gigantic, we were eager to see the dolphins. Amor informed us that we would have to circle around the area until they spot some. While we were going round and round the island, Amor gave us some tidbits about the dolphins and the whales that lives or travels around the Bohol Sea. She (He? I'm not sure... it'll be rude to say it...) said that when these creatures were hunted, you can count their numbers. But ever since it became illegal, the dolphins counts multiplied and more and more whales (humpback and so on... (I’ve forgotten)) started to pass through the area.

Bummer was that a week before we arrived, a frigging whale decided to happily lounge in the area. FOR A WHOLE WEEK!

But the real bummer was that it took us another hour or so to finally spot one! The spotter who sure has sharp eyesight saw the mammal's Dorsal Fin!
Dolphins!Dolphins!Dolphins!

After 30 minutes of wooing, they started to swim with our banca!
So we sailed to the where they were. And the absolute bummer was: We had to frigging wait and woe a whole bunch of them for another 30 minutes! They turned the boat's motor off as to not scare them away and then Amor started whistling and clapping her hands since this was some sort of way to attract their attention. At first, Rob and I were clapping along with Amor, but as the seconds turned to minutes... very very long minutes, I sat down and said, hey... I signed up for this! I should be patient about this whole wooing stuff! ARRRGGHHH!

Ha! Patience! Of all the virtues in the world, that is what I am having difficulty learning.

Rob was probably laughing inside as he encouraged me to keep my enthusiasm at bay. All of a sudden, the dolphins started to show off! About two to three miles away, you can see some spinner dolphins bobbing in and out of the water. Some even jumping! It was so hard to get a shot since their movements were swift and sudden. You see them and before you click the cam's button, they're gone. Amor said that they
More Dolphins!More Dolphins!More Dolphins!

It was so hard to capture them on film (uhm...digicam).
are finally recognizing us and we're putting up a show for us! There were a couple or more spinner dolphins that jumped to the sky and spun around and then dove back in!

We circled around following them and as we did, Amor shouted out that the dolphins were now swimming with our banca (boat)! They were at the tip of the boat, gliding with us as we tried to snap a shot of them while they rose to the surface. It was the most astounding, mind-boggling thing that I have ever experienced.

To see an animal in the wild, roaming freely and interacting with humans without any apprehension was just. I don't know... spectacular and over the edge!

Our next stop was the island itself. Pamilacan Island is a real getaway island!

As we sped away from the open water, the sea was a contrast of blues and greens and sometimes a combination of both! From the boat, it was so clear that you are able to see the corals underneath. Rob was excited already. He is a natural born whale... I mean swimmer. He loves the sea so much; he can spend the whole
Century Year Old Watch TowerCentury Year Old Watch TowerCentury Year Old Watch Tower

Built by the Spaniards against the Pirates... The tower was made from corals. How they were able to get the corals under the sea evades me.
day floating there. I, on the other hand wanted to jump and snorkel.

As we docked, the sand was really white and I had the impression that the island was an untouched area. That even if several tourists have been there countless times, it has retained a sense of purity. I loved it! The weather was even great! The wind was softly blowing at us lessening the heat of sun. There was a sandbar by the beach. Amor said that when tide is high, it sometimes looks like it's an island of it's own.

We were led to a small hut where we set our things down. Amor then guided us through the small village. She showed us the centuries old Watch Tower and basically provided us a bit of history here and there. She even told us about her granny who, during the WWII, hid inside the tower because it is impenetrable! The tower was once humungous, but now, it's just this big block made of corals.

When we got back to our hut, lunch wasn't served yet so we decided to get a tan by the beach. Rob left me as I lay down basking
Bohol SeaBohol SeaBohol Sea

The sea was magnifcent... See the distinction between the green and blue behind rob. The green part is about waist high. The blue part is a huge drop. It's deep... way deep.
in the sun, while he became one with his natural habitat! The wind was starting to pick up speed and the current was a bit faster than normal. I decided to join Rob so we can snorkel around the area before the current would be too strong for me. The water was pure green and clear as a crystal. While we were trying to swim, rather fight the current that was getting stronger by the minute, we noticed that the color of the water a few feet away from where we were standing. From afar, we saw a man dive into the blue part of the beach. When he got back up, he was holding a very big fish! And we said to ourselves, how is it possible to catch something that big near a beach?

Rob braved the blue waters. Several moments passed... he surfaced back and exclaimed "Ang lalim! Sobra!" The blue part surrounding the island was one great drop! Since I ain't that brave, I gave up snorkeling and focused my attention in fighting the increasing current.

Which we eventually gave up on.

Lunch was served by the time I was glamorously burnt! They
Bare IslandBare IslandBare Island

The beach was practically empty! It was so tranquil. Behind us, are the kubos and the small village
served us native fried chicken, stir fried veggies, soup and the fish that the man we saw caught. It was a simple yet delicious meal albeit; the native chicken is quite hard to munch on. While we enjoyed lunch, Amor entranced us with her tales of her somewhat adventurous life when she lived in Manila.

By about noon, Amor asked us if it would be okay if we can cut the trip short since the tide is rising faster than it should. The waves were also splashing loudly by this time. She even suggested that we just spend the night in the island. Rob and I were a stunned. Of course we would like to get back to our resort! We barely had any clothes on our back! So we hurried along and got dressed.

As we sauntered our way to the boat, the sand bar was now it’s own island and we noticed that the boat was taken by the waves a mile away from the beach. The boatmen were feverishly pulling the rope to get it back. Rob gave me our things and started helping. He looked so macho at the time and he seemed to
Blood Compact SiteBlood Compact SiteBlood Compact Site

On the way back... We just stopped to take our pictures!
be enjoying himself. Getting on the boat was a task since the waves were strong. Getting the boat out of the beach was an even greater task! It took us an hour to maneuver the dang boat to face our route! I keep getting up during this time because the waves were hitting the boat and splashes of water were getting us wet!

You wouldn't imagine the 2-hour hell we went through just to get back home! While we were in the middle of the sea, the waves were literally attacking us! Our boat wasn't a ship! It was a little tiny boat! Thank god the boatmen were experienced enough to be able to steer our boat to ride though the passing waves! All of them, Rob, Amor and the two boatmen were working together to balance our vehicle, while I sat, thinking of the worst while I held on the shorts Rob was wearing for dear life! I was near tears and I was thinking of how this is the end of my life!

That if there were dolphins and whales in the area... there would be a shark too! I didn't want to be eaten by a shark! I even imagined what Rob's mom would be telling my mom during our funeral! She’s probably screaming at her 'coz I killed his son by dragging him to Bohol!

And the worst thought of all! My camera will be ruined! What of my pictures! What will happen to my gadgets when we fall into the sea? Rob will save me but what’s going to save my gadgets?

Ah. The thoughts of a dying person!

Good thing was, we didn't die nor did we topple over to the sea. When we were only a few feet away from the port and the sea was calmer, I stood up, all our bags at hand, and went to the tip of the boat! Before we were properly docked, I jumped out and kissed the ground I was standing at! I have never been so happy to see LAND!!!!! Rob was laughing at me yet again. He said if he could’ve taken a picture of my face while riding the boat from hell and the time we got off, it would be priceless!

But he didn't so it's his loss!

On the way home, we passed by The Blood Compact Monument.

It's basically in memory of the blood compact between the natives of the island and the Spaniards. I would love to dwell on this more, but it wasn't interesting. I just wanted a photo taken... that’s all!

The day ended a bit early for us. We were pooped by the time we got back to the resort. All the excitement drained all our powers so we chose to just stay inside our rooms and watch TV! There is one thing though that we decided to do for the rest of the trip. Forgo the beach and settle with land tours!


PS: Tips, Tips and More Tips about Dolphin and Whale Watching!






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