Tales from Taal: Poop Island

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Waking up at around 4am in the morning was a major pain in the bum. After all, we were up, whole day and night frolicking the highlands of Tagaytay. Plus, it's so frigging cold! It's so nice to sleep, cuddled up inside a warm blanket and dream in a lucid state.

But, we couldn't. We needed to get up so we can hike Taal Volcano before we encounter the morning heat of the sun. Another thing was that our reservation at the Taal Lake Yacht Club (TLYC) for our boat and guide was at 6am. By 5am, we checked out of the inn and started deciphering our map to Talisay, Batangas. Before we reached Picnic Grove, we saw a sign leading to Talisay. Along with it were a couple or more men asking us if we needed to hire a boatman to Taal Volcano, blatantly waving their "boat for hire to Taal" sign. Obviously, we turned their offer down 'coz we already have a hired boat waiting for us down at the TLYC. The road was extremely steep and narrow and driving down the mountainside was pretty scary. Fortunately for us, the drive down to Talisay was only about 15-20 minutes from Tagaytay.

After little turns and zigzags here and there, we were in front of TLYC's gate. My stomach was already rumbling by the time we arrived and all I could think about is FOOD! To my stomach's dismay, there were no restaurants or sari-sari stores around and TLYC's caterer wasn't there yet. Actually, there was no one in the whole dang place! We wandered around looking for someone who could help us out, while I kept munching on the Holy Kettle Corn popcorn from yesterday. It was all we had and a few chocolate bars and crackers that won’t really alleviate my current hunger, but that will hold me for a couple of hours or less. Finally while taking photos of each other, someone shouted hello from the balcony of one of the houses in the property.

I looked up and he was Caucasian. I wondered what a foreigner was doing so early in the morning with a small dachshund (I think if my memory serves me right) following him around. When he came down, he asked us who we were and we informed him that we have reservations for a trek to the volcano. Then he exclaimed "So you're the group that we were waiting for yesterday?"

He introduced himself as Jose Ma. Hagedorn, Spanish-Filipino from the famous clan of Palawan (I want to go here sometime), the Hagedorns. He is the current manager of the TLYC and he has been laboring for more Filipinos to visit the volcano. He said that it's a pity that more foreigners, Koreans/Japanese in particular, visits and appreciates this one of a kind volcano than those of this country.

Anyway, our boatman was late because they thought that we had our trip scheduled for Saturday. After much confusion, it was settled that the Manila office gave them the wrong info. As we waited for our guide and boat, Mr. Hagedorn entertained us a little bit more with his own tales and what to expect and urged us to visit PHILVOLCS (Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology) which was just up the road. The hike to the main crater of the volcano is about 4kms long. He said that we should be aware that along the winding road to the crater, is an abundance of horse poop. He looked down at my feet and advised me that I should use something more poop-safe than the rubber slippers I was wearing lest I want to ruin my feet. I told him that I can always get a foot spa and have it scrubbed to perfection, but my shoes being ruined was a big no no. I just bought the damn Chucks!

Waiting by the small port was amazing 'coz you'll be able to see the horizon being lighted up by the rising sun. A few more minutes passed and Mang Jimmy, our guide, said that we were about to traverse the lake to get to the Volcano Island. We said our goodbyes to Mr. Hagedorn and he gave me his card so we can contact him if in case we have other friends who are willing to visit. Crossing Taal Lake was spectacular. The wind was blowing at our faces and the sun brought us a refreshing morning heat.

Let me just state one thing. In my 23 years of existence, and I don't speak for myself alone, I thought Taal Volcano was the picturesque volcano usually seen in postcards. I have always assumed that it’s the small, shaped like a volcano that you can see from Tagaytay. And it was what we were looking at the whole time we were on the boat ride. As we neared the island, the boat stirred away from the supposed Taal and we found ourselves docking in a normal island. It was the island beside the supposed Taal. I asked our guide why we were here and not in the one we usually see in the pictures. He said it wasn't the real deal! That we were already standing in the main crater island. I was stunned! WE were stunned!

Dang, for 23 years, we have been duped by postcards and images of the FAKE Taal!

After our shock was over, it was explained that Taal Volcano has several craters and that the one we were used to seeing also has a teeny weenie crater that no one dares to climb because it's very steep. The real deal was the small island beside it and there was a whole barangay (community) of people living there. Not just a handful, but hordes of families with small horses.

People, actual families live in a VOLCANO island! Man, that is a weird choice of location, don't you think?

Mang Jimmy explained that most of these families live off on the tourism brought about by the treks to the island. The small horses were part of the livelihood. Instead of the usual fishing and farming, they take care of the horses, which they use for the treks. Most foreigners would hire a horse to ride up the crater for about Php500. It's also sad to see that these families competes for the attention of a customer who will hire one. The little horses looked a bit battered for me.

Anyway, riding a horse wasn't close to fun, so we trekked our way up and as Mr. Hagedorn warned us, we encountered millions of horse poop. There were variations! Fresh, wet, dry, big, small, green, brown... you name it, the trail's got it! Apart from safely watching our individual footing and not slipping (which we have been counting), we concentrated more on avoiding the poop greeting us in every step of the way.

The trek isn't that bad at all. There would be some parts that would be a bit slippery but either way, it's not something that exercise-deprived chicks like us can't handle. As we went, Mang Jimmy entertained us with his own stories of the island and the volcano and the tourists he guides. He was this nice old man who was kind enough to wait for us whenever we stop for a breather or be camwhores. He even offered to take the pictures for us!

Close to the top, when you've passed the huge trees and get to the clearing, is a breathtaking view of Taal Lake, the "fake" Taal Volcano and the mountains of Tagaytay. The trail becomes a little jagged as we neared the mouth of the main crater. You will see and actually smell the sulfur coming out of the land. Dormant or not, it is a bit nerve racking to be on a volcano who is emitting sulfuric smoke on the very ground we were standing on.

When you get to the viewing area of the Main Caldera, as they call it, there are benches were you can take a rest. Normally, there would be vendors lodged in the area, but we were early customers so they were probably still on their way up. Then, there was this story that I heard from the Manila office of TLYC, that if you throw the stone towards the Crater Lake (lake inside the crater), that stone would never reach the lake. No matter how far you throw it, some gas emitted by the crater will block it causing the stone to somehow disappear.

Mang Jimmy gave us a sample. We threw several rocks towards the lake of the crater and not once did we see a ripple in the lake nor were we able to see where the rock went. He said that some Koreans who were baseball players would try to hit a rock using a baseball bat and it never reached the lake.

Anyway, after resting for a good 30 minutes, we started heading back down. The tourists were just starting their way up to the crater. Mostly there were balikbayans (Filipinos who came back to the country for a visit) and foreigners, but not a homegrown Pinoys. Mr. Hagedorn was right. WE barely appreciate the wonders our country offers.

We were busted by the time we reached the base. As we trotted our way back to where our boat was docked, the whole barangay was already in a chaotic uproar. Most of the horse handlers were trying to get the tourists to take them as a guide. Out of curiosity, I asked Mang Jimmy how these families would get out of the island when the volcano decides to erupt. He said they would have to be ferried out of the island. The horsey will of course be the last priority.

On the way back to TLYC, dead-beat and aching, probably as a parting gift from Taal, was a half an hour-long shower provided by the lake (the very same lake where a friggin’ horse was taking his bath). After attempting to cover up with everything we can grab a hold of, we just lived at the moment. With the spray of lake water and wind in our faces (more like the whole body) and the experience of conquering something small but magnificent as Taal Volcano.

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PS: Things You Might Want to Know if You Wanna Trek Taal:

1. When you get to Talisay/Tagaytay, you will see a lot of "boat for hire/trek to Taal signs" and you really won't have any difficulty getting one since there are hordes of them available.

2. I would, however, recommend Taal Lake Yacht Club (TLYC). They are organized and provide more trustworthy services. Plus, Mr. Hagedorn is very cool and accommodating (and I wanna marry him!).

3. TLYC Volcano Trips costs Php1500 only. That already includes the boat with a maximum of 6 persons load. It's actually the standard price for most boats for hire, but they have better offers. Contact TLYC Manila Office if you want to get a reservation.

Peter Capotosto
[phone]/8113283
Taal Lake Yacht Club

4. It's easier to get to Talisay via Santa Rosa/Tagaytay than South Superhighway Extension. Click this to see the MAP

5. Travel early in morning. 6am is an ideal hour since by the time you get to the Main Caldera, it’s still cool and you'll avoid the scorching heat of the sun.

6. Bring lots of alcohol/sanitizers. Unless you want to relish yourself in poop, then you don't have to bother.

7. Extra clothes is a necessity. The boat is not a big one and it doesn't do a good job in shielding you from the water sprays. There is a high probability that you will be soaking wet when you get back to Talisay.

8. Water... make sure you have gallons of it when hiking. You won't meet any vendors/water stands along the way. If you go around 9-10 am, there would be vendors by the Main Caldera, but I'll bet it'll cost more than you're entire trip! Heheheh... kidding. Maybe just triple the standard price.

9. After the Taal Trek, stop by PHILVOLCS which is just a few miles up the road. It's beside a huge acacia tree. They have a small exhibit there and if you are really lucky, you might be invited inside the laboratory where all the equipments for monitoring the volcano is, provided you take off your shoes before entering.

10. If by the time you get down from the trek nad you are famished, TLYC has a caterer that serves excellent food, but if you're already running out of time, just wait for another hour or two, you'll find yourself a KFC at the South Superhighway.

11. Once again... friends are a must. But if you have a friend who complains a lot, tell them to prepare P500 or more and hire themselves a horsey!

12. Mt. Pinatubo is the next volcano to conquer.

13. For more infos about Tagaytay: Meandering Tagaytay

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Photos

Taal Volcano
A shot of the volcano around 530am while we (Iyay) were braving the steep road to Talisay from Tagaytay

Sunrise at Taal Lake Yacht Club
We arrived a bit early and while looking for the caretaker/owner/manager for the Yacht Club, I started to capture the sunrise. A bit off since we were at the wrong side of the world, but it's aight.

Boat Ride
On our way to the Volcano Island. It was cool a morning and our excitement was building up.

Real Taal
A view of the real thing from the boat. We were wondering why we weren't headed to the usual Taal that we were used to seeing from Tagaytay/postcards and as Mang Jimmy informed us, it was the small ugly looking island that was the real deal. Not the picturesque one. Bummer.

Reaching the 2 KM Mark
Half way to the crater! The climb was alright, but we had to stop and take it slow because of Arvin. The weather was great and it wasn't that hot yet.

Behold the Fake Taal
A view of the "Taal Volcano" from the Main Crater of Taal. Confusing? You'll get it when you get there!

Few More Miles!
Almost at the top of the crater. We stopped for a few moments just so we can snap some shots. By this time, you'll be able to see that some part of the soil is red and carved. Mang Jimmy, our guide said, it was where the magma passed through when it erupted.

Finally!
On top of the crater! There were benches that you can sit on. Usually, there would be vendors but we were early and thus avoided the crowd of spectators.

Mang Jimmy
Taking a break after guiding us slow pokes!

Main Caldera
Looks like a mountain that has a lake at the base.

Arvin on Top
Hay, we made it... so did Arvin, even though it was a bit difficult for him. Also, he just defied every rule given to him by his parents! Ride a boat and hike a mountain! =P

Comments

[joey]

thanks
thanks for the comments babe