SPANTIK PEAK 7027M CLIMBING EXPEDITION

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SPANTIK PEAK 7027M CLIMBING EXPEDITION:
This is also called the Yengutz Peak in addition to Spantik Peak. The Spantik is the part of the mountain chain, which forms the boundary between Hunza-Nagar and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakuram. The people from Hunza and Nagar Valley called “GOLDEN PEAK/GOLDEN PILLAR” for this side. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad and Duikar, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight. The ascend of the Pillar from this side, difficult through North Pillar that is technical route, first climbed by British mountaineers in 1987, was milestone in technical difficulty for Himalayan Mountaineers.

The other side (from Skardu-Balistan) of the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. On this side Spantik Peak is at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER in Arandu Valley- Skardu. It is usually climbed from Chogolungme Glacier (Arandu side), via the relatively easy long South East Ridge that is called NORMAL ROUTE.

CLIMBING ROUTE:
The climb along the South East Ridge is the most achievable route of any 7000M Peak in the Pakistani Karakurams. This route is generally considered a safe and technically easy route and has become the obvious target for commercially organized expeditions looking for straightforward ascent to 7000M. The ridge rises 2700M over its 8-Km length affording several safe campsites. The climb through long and arduous is not technically difficult. The average gradient is 30 to 45 degree but there are some short steps that provide some climbing interest. Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective, an ideal next step for those who previously climbed a 6000M peak or those preparing for an 8000M expedition. This is the easiest peak in 7000M in Pakistan from this side of Skardu.

BACKGROUND:
It was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock-Workman by this route who reached up to the 6700M, a female altitude record at that time. It was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer's German expedition.

APPROACH:
Lying to the south of the great Hispar Glacier and standing above the remote upper Chogolungma Glacier, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path starting from the Village of ARANDU follows the beautiful ablation Valley along the side of the Choglungma Glacier, with stunning vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks all the way to Base Camp. Arandu is connected to Skardu by jeep able road and Skardu is administrative capital of Baltistan and based for the expeditions for several peaks. Skardu is linked to Islamabad by air (flight) and by road.

HIGHER CAMPS:
The Base Camp is at the altitude of about 4300M and higher camps are set up normally at about altitude of
Camp-I (5250m)
Camp-II (5650m)
Camp-II (6250m)

SUITABLE PERIOD:
The proper period to climb the Spantik Peak is Mid of June to End of August.

TIME SUMMARY:
30- 35 days from Islamabad to back Islamabad

We start our trip from Islamabad to Skardu, which is connected to Islamabad by flight (1-hrs) and by road. This is a spectacular flight to the edge of Karakuram Mountains giving great view of Nanga Parbat and many other famous peaks. The flight is subjected to the weather condition. By road on Karakuram Highway it takes two days, to Chilas (13-15 hrs drive) then next day (7-9 hrs drive) to Skardu. You have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle of many travelers purchasing supplies and hiring porters. The next destination is the small village ARANDU, which is 85-Km Jeep journey along narrow mountain road. After hiring the porters will start the trek to the Base Camp.


Day 01-02: Arrival to Islamabad, briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and formalities

Day 03-05: Transfers to Skardu, shopping and preparation

Day 06-09: Transfers to the Base Camp, the approach to the Base Camp is about 304 days trek on Chogolungma Glacier

Day 10-24: The climbing and acclimatization

Day 25-30: Return to Islamabad via Skardu and formalities at Islamabad

Day 31: Departure from Islamabad



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Photos

Spantik Peak 7027M by normal route
Spantik Peak 7027M, from Skardu Baltistan side by the South East Ridge

View of the Spantik 7027M from Glacier
View of the Spantik Peak from Chogolungme Glacier

Golden Pillar-Spantik from Nagar side
From Hunza-Nagar side called Golden Pillar 7027M

Comments

[ashok patel]

Spantik climb 2011
dear sir/madam i am interested in climbing this peak and visiting hunza. Is there a group of people you have listed for the expidtion i may be able to join. Also please give me some indication of the total cost etc. thank you in advance. kind regards Ashok

[TRAVEL GUIDE OF PAKISTAN]

NAGAR VALLEY MOST POPULAR AND PEACEFUL FOR TOURISTS AND TRUISM IN PAKISTAN.
The Nagar Valley is a valley near Gilgit Valley, Gilgit Baltistan in Pakistan. The valley is part of Hunza Nagar District and is administratively divided into two tehsils namely Nagar-1 and Nagar-2. The valley lies at an altitude of 2,438 meters (7,999 feet). Nagar Khas is the largest city and capital of the former state of Nagar. Spantik peak (Golden peak) can easily be seen from here. Gulmet is a popular tourist attraction in Nagar because of the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains as Rakaposhi at 7,788 m (25,561), and Diran and more than 30 famous peaks. The climate of Nagar remains pleasant from mid April to late September.

[NORTH PAKISTAN]

Yes, that is and I agree with you!