Advertisement
Published: December 13th 2005
Preamble...
So much of our adventure so far has been decided on the hoof, but trekking to get a great view of Everest was always intrinsic to our plans. As soon as Nepal was added to the itinerary Steve started dreaming about getting to Everest Base Camp. I naively believed that this could entail a little walking, very probably at an incline for at least part of the way. Steve himself was a little foggy on the details, he has surfed the net a bit and had found one arranged tour that took you to EBC and back in 7 days which seemed reasonable. We decided to leave the finer points (finding a reputable company, booking a guide etc.) till we touched down in Kathmandu - knowing that the cost would be obscene if we booked from the UK.
On arriving in Kathmandu we set about booking our tour. It soon became clear that EBC and back in 7 days was some crazy fool scheme. Where Steve had read such wanton poppycock remains unclear - he could never find the website again. Before I knew it we were committing to a 14 days trek (yup that will be double
Baby it's cold outside
Wrapped and ready, Kathmanduthe original estimate) with the option of trekking to base camp, or choosing to go higher to Kala Pattar for a great view of the world's highest mountain. Wisely we opted to have a guide and a porter - if nothing else we know our limits. We would be staying in lodges or 'teahouses' along the route - we knew we were in for a treat when our rather slick salesman described the accommodation as 'basic' (such honesty this early on was disturbing, I would have preferred 'perfunctory' or 'adequate').
We had 24 hours to prepare. Most of our warm weather gear had been sent home from India in the first couple of weeks of traveling when we realised how woefully off centre our packing choices had been. This meant a shopping excursion into the Thamel district of Kathmandu was in order, where every other stall sells knock off North Face (North Fake as we came to call it) trekking clobber. Every salesman assures you that his stock is utterly genuine, but close inspection of zips and those finishing touches tells your consumer eye otherwise. That and the fact that you can buy a fleece for 400 rupees (3
GBP odd!) We spent a very enjoyable half hour choosing between the various ridiculous hat choices you can make under the pretence of really needing to keep warm. Steve - usually such a somber ambassador sartorially speaking amazed me by choosing the biggest hat I have ever seen in mint green, peach and dark blue, complete with Heidi style plaits running down each side. I haven't laughed so much since I saw him on the camel. Some gloves and a pair of Yak hair scarves later and we were ready.
It was an early start. We had already met our guide Bhakta and he picked us up at 6am to drive us to the airport. We took a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Only 40 minutes or so long, but the morning was bright and clear and we were treated to incredible scenery below us. It is fair to say that when God was giving out the world's most amazing views, Nepal got greedy and pushed to the front a few times more than most. Nepal boasts 8 of the 10 highest mountains in the world - including, of course, Everest.
On arriving in Lukla, Bhakta scouted around
to find us a porter. He settled upon a slim young guy with a chiseled earnest face who he seemed to know. We were hoping otherwise, as this chap was so poorly attired we couldn't imagine him making it the entire way without losing something vital to frostbite. His shoes in particular were basic plimsoles that were battered and frayed, with the soles coming away. But this didn't seem to bother Bhakta. Durga joined our little party as we made our way along the trail. We were comforted when an hour into our gentle walk (Day 1 is easy!) we stopped so Durga could run down to his village and collect some belongings. When he returned it was in shoes without holes, but precious little else - a blanket and a few more pairs of socks.
Hiring a porter is a strange one. So many people do not do this - purporting that somehow unless you carry your own bag every step of the way, your efforts are somehow lesser. Now we knew that this trek was going to be tough and that we needed all the help we could get! We had left most of our possessions back
Meat on the move
MMMMmmmmmmm.... meat basket in Kathmandu, combining what we both needed for this trip into one rucksack, and just taking small day sacks to carry water and the clothes we shed as the day got hotter. I knew from a little research that the bag we had given Durga was considered a 'gentle load' - as it was under 25kg (I would guess at about 18kg). Indeed when Durga was given our bag and told that was it - he actually laughed! This was comforting to us (well comforting and a little embarrassing - were we really such wimps that we needed someone else to carry such a trifling amount!?). The lot of a porter is surely one of the toughest. We were paying him $10 a day, but at least $3 or $4 would be deducted to cover his insurance, arranged by our tour company. Durga spoke apparently no English (though he could add 'morning!' and 'milk tea?' to his vocabulary by the end) and, according to Bhakta, came from a poor village with no formal education. He was, at least, going to have a job for the next couple of weeks....
Now before the brief diary transcripts, we should give a
little further information on the trek itself. Whilst the route we covered is officially known as the 'Everest Base Camp' trek, it became apparent not only when booking the tour, but also during many a conversation with fellow trekkers en route - that actually Everest Base Camp itself isn't all that the name might inspire. Firstly, you can't see Everest at all from Base Camp, as it's flanked by other peaks. And secondly, with attempts on the summit being out of season and no tents in sight, unless you have a particular curiosity to see a helicopter wreck (not live, some years prior...), there's nothing more but for ice and snow.
Consequently, the ultimate destination for us and many others was a peak called Kala Patthar (a Hindi name, meaning 'black rock'). Though relatively close to Base Camp, its slightly higher elevation of around 5600 meters coupled with its location result in unparalleled views of the mountain panorama.
As for climate, we were told to expect extreme cold at night and moderate warmth when walking in the sunshine. Goose-down sleeping bags and jacket hire were included in the package, so we were left to bring enough warm layers,
Sweet Cheeks
One of the many cute kids i was ordered to snap (take picture of) ready to be peeled off when necessary.
We were also advised to avoid eating meat on the trek. The reason for this being that the majority of our journey was inside the Sagarmatha National Park, wherein it is illegal to slaughter animals of any kind. Therefore, all meat is imported from surrounding, lower lying villages, generally by porter and in less than sanitary conditions. Of this, we took note.
The basic schedule for each day would be walking from sunrise to early/mid afternoon, then spending the rest of the day at whatever Tea House was lucky enough to have us. If any day the weather was bad, we'd have to stay put. The evenings would mostly be spent huddled around a stove in the communal dining rooms. Such places provided not only heat, but also the opportunity to socialise with other trekkers, play cards, and gather your strength before retiring to your room to shiver the night away.
Day 1 Lukla - Phakding
Fly to Lukla from Kathmandu. Beautifully clear day, amazing scenery beneath. Walked to Phakding, a gentle 2.5hr stroll, camera busy throughout. We arrive at digs mid afternoon, our first 'tea house'
3 at rest near Periche
Martine (unwell) Jacob (beaming) Durga (Durga) experience. Our room consists of two beds, a window and a bin. Little did we know it would be some time before we’d enjoy such luxury as a bin again. In the evening met a hardcore trekking Danish guy named Jacob (also on his way up) who happened to tell us a very amusing story about a local lady who urinated into his shoe whilst traveling on a bus in China (he wasn't wearing them at the time). Something to look out for, early next year....
Day 2 Phakding - Namche Bazaar
First 2hrs easy enough, then following 4hrs murderously uphill. Many rests and much giving way to yak trains. Met Korean guy (going up) struggling under full rucksack, very heavy coat, and a guitar (I baulked at the idea of carrying a guitar up a mountain, evidently lacking the commitment). Our guide helped out by relieving him of the instrument for the remainder of the day's hike. I made sure he knew where we'd be staying, suggesting he visit for a sing-song, which he duly did. Namche Bazaar - a colourful little market town, nestled in a small valley, with dramatic mountain scenery towering on all sides.
Martine likened it to 'a Nepalese Balamory' (those with young children will know) - only at 3440m above sea level, and with more yaks.
Day 3 - Acclimatization in Namche
Otherwise known as a 'rest' day, although this is something of a misnomer. Rather than simply lounge, it's advisable to climb a few hundred meters of a nearby peak, then descend again to sleep. This apparently helps the body adjust to the altitude. Bhakta, our guide, suggested a walk to the world's 'highest airport'. Upon viewing we felt it was more in the 'airstrip' category, or indeed 'a muddy patch for helicopters'. Didn't want to offend of course, so looked happy and intimated a big 'tick' going in the diary. Still, relatively easy day, so no complaining.
Day 4 Namche - Tengboche
Ooof mate - hardest day by far. Took 4hrs 15min of down, down, down, up, up, up, up and up. Both exhausted on arrival, Martine claiming never to have been more so (happy honeymoon!). Visited world's highest Monastery during prayer time - a tourist audience being welcome as long as shoes were removed and camera flashes suppressed. Many unnerving looks from disgruntled monks when
Summit up
Myself, Bhakta & Durga atop Kala Patthar rules weren't complied with by assembled crowd of westerners. Glad to eventually leave as feet were freezing. To bed early, but both had terrible night: crazy vivid dreams (rock&roll kilt), cold sweats, chills and awake with headaches. Feeling of trepidation for rest of journey.
Day 5 Tengboche - Periche
Easier trek, convenient given assorted ailments: very sore throat for Martine and 'mild' Acute Mountain Sickness for me (not something you'd imagine there to be gradations of but 'moderate' and 'severe' are best avoided). In afternoon listened to talk given by local Doc, who was volunteering in last medical outpost on trail, about all forms of Altitude Sickness and the many ways we could die. Periche a very unforgiving place, bleak and with nasty chilling winds. Spent evening with Dane Jacob and met Leon - a 70yr old English man (going up), and who's marathon running records could shame Paula Radcliffe (again). Decide not to move on tomorrow to monitor symptoms.
Day 6 - Acclimatization in Periche
Martine's throat worse, my AMS improved. Took short walk up nearby hill to see other valley, Martine stayed in warm 'sun room', rested in afternoon, giving rude locals something to
discuss (in Nepalese). At around 4200m scenery now very different - gone are the verdant green valleys, replaced by barren rocky landscapes, sparse vegetation. Life struggles here and for good reason. See how we feel in morning. In the evening Leon leads us in a game of his own devising - each person tells five unusual/amusing anecdotes about themselves... only one is a lie and the others have to guess which (original). No doubt Leon has lead an interesting life and I soon got the feeling he'd be very much in agreement with this statement. The game may as well have been called 'How I Can Tell You Some More About Me'. We heard five equally unlikely statements, only to be old they we ALL true! You really had three girlfriends called 'Maureen'..... at the same time?!! You really told the Beatles to f-off?!! You've been a professional card player and a professional Russian folk dancer?!! With later elaboration, we certainly believed it all. The one thing undeniable from his current state of being however, was his suffering from bronchitis. Despite much coughing, he intends to push on. Night time is coldest yet, perishing in Periche.
Day 7 Periche
Everest
looming large on the right... - Duglha
Onwards. Short walk to Duglha, 2hrs in bitterly cold winds, climbing a further 300m to around 4600. Really starting to feel it in the old legs now. Bump in to Wendy (up), a girl we'd met on travels in southern India and then Jacob, who, clearly one of the fitter trekkers, was already on his way back down. A glowing success, he shared some photos and advice, then went on his way. Wendy told us how she'd been to the top of an alternative peak some days prior, and had been very ill as a result. Bhakta then tells us that everyone he's ever guided up has made it to the top (over some 80 groups), with the exception of Japanese man who failed to wake up at our next destination and had to be carried back down. These really weren't the motivational stories we were in need of.... then we met Leon, still going strong.
Day 8 Duglha - Lobuche
Can't believe we made it this far! A few days ago it was looking unlikely. Martine's sore throat still there, but has now developed in to raging cold: sounds worse but apparently more bearable.
Mount Martine
or so it will soon be known Got some sleep last night. Slow start, breakfast at 8 but only left by 10am for 2hr walk. Climbing for first hour then walk along side one of world's largest glaciers and iced over stream and river. Long day to wait through, having climbed another 300m. Lots of card playing and nose blowing. Casual glances around dining room seem to suggest all others on their way up are in rude health - many glances our way as we blow and cough. Both feeling like lepers of the group. Tomorrow is frightening prospect - make or break day. We're not in great shape but if we can just wake up... it'll be game on.
Day 9 Lobuche - Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Lobuche
Game on! Both woke feeling ready for final push, despite only one cup of tea and 6am start. Stage 1 - get to Gorak Shep for breakfast... very cold walk alongside Khumbu Glacier, head down, waiting for the Sun, climb another 200M in roughly 2hrs, over 5000m. Arrive in need of refreshment. Martine had porridge (or perhaps 'gruel') I had 'chise omelit', hoping it would provide the lift required to crack Stage 2 -
the peak of Kala Patthar, and at 5600m, the very highest point of our trek. Peak is a very steep 400m climb, with oxygen at around 50%, so going is very slow - both struggle on up, Martine doing especially well as climate not best suited for cold and hacking cough. Beyond first ridge get sight of final peak - now, finally, no doubt in my mind that we were both going to make it! Meet Leon on his way down, who assures us that it's not much further - a quick use of my eyes confirms this to be correct - thanks Leon! and well done - doubt there were many other bronchitis suffering successes that morning. Some very large rocks and 30mins later, we clamber to the top, to finally appreciate the stunning surroundings that had been teasing our peripheral vision for some 2hrs of breathless climbing. Martine took a seat and I clicked away frantically, ensuring we captured 'the roof of the world'!. Met Wendy and co on way back down. Light lunch at Gorak Shep - celebrate climb with Coke & a Sprite (at about 2 pounds each!) - and both taste distinctly odd due to
Moonscape
another shot from the top of Kala P. Diamox - a drug to aid acclimatization. Won't make that mistake again! Before setting off for Stage 3 (return to Lobuche) - Wendy descends back to Gorak Shep, having been sick on the mountain, and apparently suffering from AMS. Fatigue sets in on journey back, with Wendy and co overtaking in rapid descent to alleviate symptoms. Glad to make it back for some hot soup, felt as if we'd been gone for ages, remembering the morning as if it were yesterday. Met Yorkshire men named Tyrone and Gary in the evening, part of a group on their way to Gorak Shep for the Everest 2005 Marathon. Course runs all the way to Namche Bazaar. Having just walked the route over the previous week, it was obvious that the only prerequisite for entry is 'complete insanity'. Tyrone had never run a marathon in his life before. This would most likely be his last. Apparently Gary competed a few years back and finished 4th - the highest ever place for a non Napali. Leon said he'd applied but was turned down for being 'too old'. May catch whoever is left alive crossing the finish line in Namche in a couple of days.
We made it!
Me, Martine and her one good thumb Day 10 Lobuche - Pangboche
We are finally coming down! Long walk but largely downhill. Euphoric feeling to know that our steps will not need to be retread in the opposite direction. Stopped for lunch at Shomare (cute puppy still in residence and still in need of a damn good brush) but that aside walking from 8am til about 2pm. YAK ATTACK!!!! After 9 days of gentle coexistence with the wooly horned ones we had a close encounter that was hairy in more ways than one! As we walked down towards Pangboche a yak herder was high above us throwing stones at a reluctant yak. Martine expressed some concern that this could put us in peril, I reassured her otherwise. Seconds later the sound of thundering hooves prompted me to turn my head to see the very same yak had barreled down the mountainside onto the pathway leaving me just to grab Martine's aside and jump out of the way as it thundered by, angry and definitely not one of the docile pack animals we had grown used to. This yak clearly had his own ideas about where he wanted to be and when. Butlins style accommodation, we
Sunrise
or was it sunset? knew we had hit the big time when we had a light, a bin and a mirror. Luxury! The air felt so mild compared to the higher climes we had encountered. Still pretty cold to be sure but all is relative. Tried my first Dal Baht - delicious. Chatted with oz guy that we glimpsed at Gorak Shep.
Day 11 - Pangboche - Namche
Set off at 8ish. 5 hours walk. Mostly down with a few ups to remind us where we have come from. Great to walk to Tengboche - I was so tired arriving there on the way up. For so long I had been dreaming of relaxing at Shangri-La 's restaurant and now we are actually here! Steve had a shower to celebrate. Almost convinced me that he had washed his hair for a couple of hours. Sadly no sun - cloudy so my long awaited shower must wait a little longer (need sun to dry my locks) just can't bear thought of being cold. Filthy = warm. Tomorrow is the Everest Marathon. Winner should be arriving in Namche at 11ish. We will set off after that.
Day 12 - Namche - Phakding
Stupa
somewhere near Tengboche Stayed in Namche til late morning to watch the winner of the Everest Marathon run through the finish line in a record breaking 3 hours and 52 minutes - walking the same route took us 2 and a half days! Covered the reverse route of day 2, so mostly downhill - though with blisters, aches and general fatigue taking their toll, still a tiring journey. Managed to lose both Bhakta and Durga in marathon melee - fortunately they catch us up en route - Bhakta looking most relieved and Durga looking lost beneath a hugely increased payload. Blankets for his family allegedly . . . though I seem to recall Bhakta looking for blankets just the evening before . . .
Day 13 - Phakding - Lukla
We got up in high spirits - we very much hoped that today we could finish the final leg of our trek and fly back to the comforts of Kathmandu. However until we arrived at the airport we wouldn't know for sure, as flights could easily be cancelled by poor visibility. In our memories this was quite an easy day - such a long time ago, Day one when we
set out. A few hours of walking would deliver us to Lukla. We started walking about 8ish? We arrived about 11.30ish? Seemed more uphill that it should, hadn't we suffered enough? I want to go back and firebomb the sign that says there is only 30 mins left til Lukla so give us all your medical supplies - there was at least another hour and a half, that damn sign got my hopes up! Only for them to be dashed. Arrived at Lukla - we beat Bhakta and Durga - turns out Bhakta hadn't expected to get a flight so he was just coasting. Backhander at the airport ensures we get on the next flight - if there is one. The thought of having to stay another night in another lodge is very hard to consider. My heart and stomach have already fled to Kathmandu. We sit in the cold VIP area and wait. Eventually our plane comes in. The pilot is bought a quick bowl of noodles whilst luggage is off loaded and the next crop of dusty rucksacks are hurled into the hold. Our air hostess is strangely tall for a job that involves serving the needs of
passengers in a cramped confined space. She has to crane her neck to avoid the ceiling. I loved that flight because it meant that we had succeeded and we were leaving! Dreamt of steak. Everything about Kathmandu seems dear to me on this second viewing. The rubbish, the beggars, the flute sellers, well okay that is going too far. Bhakta had a nice new bag of blankets with him, so he was happy too.
Before we even shower we head for K-Toos for that steak - peppered with mushrooms. It is damn damn fine. Apparently they get the beef from Calcutta (cowcutter?!) which is a bit too much information - we have seen the lives that Indian cows lead. They are plump and well fed though!
Hair Cut
a minor epilogue... upon returning to Kathmandu, i resembled something of a Yeti, in desperate need of a short back and sides.
There are a few late night barbers around the Thamel district, so I didn't have to go far. I wish I had. The barber seemed like a reasonable guy, gave me three straight forward options: 'small?', 'medium?', 'large?' and then snipped away confidently when I opted
Durga, with new package
on the way down, near Namche for the relative safety of 'medium please'.
The haircut went well, and I imagined it was over when he put down the scissors. But instead I felt his hands on my head, combining a firm scalp massage with a series of equally firm knocks and slaps. 'Okay' I thought, 'just a standard after-service in these parts...' . Then his hands slipped down to my shoulders, for some more rough treatment.... 'Perhaps he thought I looked a little tense when I came in?'. Then he mentioned something about 'Thai Massage' and I realised this was simply a free sample. I said 'no thanks' with which he continued, suddenly twisting my head to the right, only for the very audible 'click-clicking' of my neck to finally bring us to an abrupt end, with my jumping up and our backing off one another. I asked "is that a traditional end to haircuts here, or did you just not like my face?" He replied "Yes", but to which part I’ll never know.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.141s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 8; qc: 53; dbt: 0.0718s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Rasquat
non-member comment
Beard
The most interesting part of this long missive is the fact that Steve grew a beard. All those in favour of it please vote here. I'm very fond of it and want to see his hairy face on his return. You will be aware that I had a similar massage experience in Dehli (unrequested) and that my neck has clicked and cricked ever since. The doctor said not to worry and that it makes a good party trick - perhaps we can now form a double act.