Leaving Manaslu and joining the Annapurna Circuit.

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Tilije (2300m) – Jagat (1300m)

Well folks we’re really on the homeward leg now. This morning is the final section where we are on the Manaslu Circuit as we now join the start of the Annapurna circuit for the last day or so.

Awoke to another glorious day and after packing went and sat in the kitchen of the guest house warming ourselves beside the fire while the ladies cooked breakfast.

This guest house seems to be run by two sisters (probably mid thirties or so) but their parents and younger sister also help out. There are also a couple of young guys, presumably brothers, but like young guys the world over they don’t seem to be big players in the day to day work around the guest house.

Traditionally in these guest houses the Nepali porters and guides socialise and eat in the kitchen while we use the dining room. It seems they believe we would rather do it that way whereas we really enjoy the experience of interacting in the kitchen and sitting around the open cooking fire. So today we got first dibs on the kitchen and poor old Himal, Sumon and Tom were relegated to the cold dining room.

I pulled out the coffee I’d brought from NZ (Maccona Indulgence, which we all agreed is close to real coffee in flavour and body) and made coffee for everyone who wanted one including the locals.

Had our breakfast in the kitchen and while we were doing it took a few pictures of the father and woman folk. McVet then printed a couple of photos for them. The old guy was especially pleased with his and got out a little collection of other photos to put it with them, then in the famous words of Darryl Kerrigan “it’s going straight to the pool room”!

Leaving Tilije after breakfast the trail proceeded ever downwards until we got to the villiage of Dharapani where it joins the Annapurna circuit. Immediately there were more trekkers going the opposite way as they start on Annapurna. They were generally clean faced (actually clean bodied too and didn’t smell!) and full of enthusiasm for their journey ahead.

One really noticeable thing both here and overall from our days trekking is the gender split. I’d guess it’s 60% or more young women, quite a few groups of girls travelling together but less groups of guys. Then there’s the couples, where generally the girls are full of Joie de Vivre whereas the guys give the distinct impression of being there because they were told to. We did wonder how many of these budding young relationships survive the two or so weeks around Annapurna.

Anyway, back to our story, at Dharapani we commence following the Marsyangdi Khola which is the river that the Annapurna circuit follows to Manang. Another spectacular Nepalese river as it tumbled down over rocks and through rapids.

We continued south until we got to the village of Tal where we decided to stop for coffee (spotted a guest house that had a Lavazza Espresso sign) and lunch. After yesterday’s food timing debacle it seemed prudent to try to get the food schedule something like normal. A really nice break sitting in the sun and just enjoying our own company for an hour or so.

After Tal there was a very long and steep uphill section before a correspondingly steep downhill section. This was all familiar to Chris and I as we had traversed this, in the opposite direction, during the previous Annapurna and Nar Phu trek we did four years ago.

Sections of this trail now follow the road, such as it is, which is not as enjoyable walking but does have considerable less ups and downs. It is hard to accurately describe this road, it has been largely blasted out of the face of the hillside above the river and if you were to see it for the first time you’d conclude vehicle couldn’t use it. There are enourmous potholes, large boulders strewn around, areas where small slips have encroached on to it and huge falls on the outside etc. However the trusty workhorse of the Himalayas, the Mahindra pickup, seems to handle it ok although it must be very tough on them.

Finally we arrived in Jagat, tired but happy as the guest house promised “hot shower” and sure enough it did have one. It is indescribable the pleasure that the first wash in eight days can bring. We were like kids in a candy store, full of enthusiasm and joy at finally being able to get rid of the increasingly thick layer of grime we were wearing!

To celebrate the shower we had a beer with dinner and again a great surprise when it was served cold. No many places here have refrigeration so cold anything is a bit of a luxury.

Sumon did give us a little concert (one song) after dinner. It was a Nepali love song, the ubiquitous theme of a jilted lover etc, and while we, obviously, didn’t understand the words he was very good. He had previously shown us a video of him singing in what would seem to be “Nepal’s got Talent” (without Simon Cowell, thank god). He won this and got a prize of NPR50,000 which is a considerable sum here. So we’re pretty fortunate to get the personalised performance.

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Photos

Pony drinking
This pony was standing patiently beside the water tap and when I went to fill my water bottle I turned it on for him. He guzzled water for a good five minutes so must have been very thirsty.