Up and over Larke Pass!

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Daramsala/Larke Phedi (4460m) – Bintang (3590m) via Larke La Pass (5135m)

The biggest day of the trek is finally upon us!

The recommended plan for crossing Larke La is to leave very early in the morning (between 4.00 and 4.30am) in order to get to the pass before the winds get strong there.

We set our alarm for a little after 3.00am planning to have breakfast (porridge) at about 3.30am and be underway by 4.00. A little optimistic as getting packed in tents with thick snow outside in temperatures, I would guess, less than -10degC is just so much more time consuming than expected.

The good thing was the snow had stopped and it was not clear but bitterly cold.

Porridge for breakfast, from the dirty kitchen, was interesting as it had peanuts added. The first one I spat out thinking it was some foreign object four on inspection it vacate apparent that for reasons better know to them the guys in the kitchen had put peanuts in the porridge.

Then we were back outside trying to get organised in the cold and finally got underway at about 4.30am.

Comparing thoughts afterwards we all found the first few hundred metres up the ridge we’d walked up yesterday extremely difficult Probably due to the extreme cold, some trepidation about what lay ahead and perhaps just general tiredness. Fortunately this wore off and we were soon into our strides and making good steady progress up the valley towards the pass.

The route to this pass has a few steep uphill sections in it but generally was just a very long slog with a steady gradient. Until the sun rose it was really cold and with the altitude and lack of oxygen you were panting quite heavily. This can, quite easily, cause you to become dehydrated something we attempted to manage by having regular stops for “compulsory water”. One issue we had was the water in the tubes from the hydration bladders had frozen overnight and therefore initially we were reliant on our water bottles for water.

Once the sun rose we quickly warmed up with it on our backs although it brought with it all the issues of ensuring we didn’t get burnt and had sunglasses on to prevent snow blindness. One issue was you got quite warm with the sun on your back (despite the actual air temperature still being well below zero) and obviously then stripped off some layers, next when either a cloud past or you went into the shade you chilled down really quickly.

We trudged on for about 4.5hours until at about 9.00am we arrived at the pass. As soon as we climbed to the ridge the pass is on the bitterly cold wind rising from the other side hit us. It really was cold and made worse because we had taken some layers off on the way up.

We stopped for the obligatory congratulations all around, photos and just to absorb the moment then quite quickly added some clothes and moved off.

Interestingly the trail then proceeded to climb along the top of a ridge away from the pass until we were something like 50m above the area marked as the pass. Obviously the Nepalese used a bit of licence in siting the signs and markers for the pass in a relatively flat and safe location rather than at the actual highest spot which was narrow with drops off either side and had little room for photos etc.

The journey down from the pass was long, very steep and treacherous due to the fresh snow, ice and bitter cold.

Initially we followed the side of a ridge on a very narrow (about a foot wide) path/ledge with a deep valley falling away to our left. One misstep and you’d fall to the bottom!

We came across a train of yaks going in the opposite direction towards the pass followed closely by a very large pony train. I’d read that they don’t usually run pony trains over the pass until late spring due to the issue of ponies hooves being ill suited to ice and snow. Apparently the ice balls up in the hoof and they can’t get traction.

Anyway, we moved off the path onto the steep bank above and waited as this train went past. It seemed to be a family affair with several women and a number of men including the young pony chaperones (not sure what the correct term is for the guys who run these pony trains). They were almost past us when, unfortunately, one of the ponies lost traction and feel about 100m down the ravine. It rolled numerous times and was obviously either terminally injured or dead at the bottom.

Quite traumatic to watch, made worse by the screaming of the women. Obviously for them this was like watching the uninsured family car being destroyed. So all in all a sobering moment and also a reminder to watch our own footing.

Proceeding on we got to a couple of very steep and in places icy slopes that we had to get down as best we could without falling. A couple of minor falls but nothing of consequence and finally we were past the worst.

Stopped for a brief break and a boiled egg and Snickers bar which did wonders for the energy levels.

As we descended the terrain changed and while there were still patches of snow we were largely in rocky areas, not a lot easier to walk but at least the chances of a fall had now reduced.

Finally sighted the village of Bintang below us and arrived there a bit after 2.00pm, so a 9.5hr day.

After a false start found a good guest house although still no internet or hot showers!

It started snowing heavily not long after we arrived and continued into the night. Despite us being at 3590m it is still bitterly cold.

The food here is the opposite of Daramsala, well cooked in a clean kitchen by a lovely Nepalese lady and served in the dining room complete with wood burning fire so we’re in heaven!

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