Arch is now sick and we’re heading upwards!

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ArchNamrung (2600m) – Sama (3520m)

Sama, also known variously as Samagaon or Ryo is 900m above Namrung so we’ll in excess of the recommended daily maximum altitude gain of 300 – 400m. Consequently we need to take it pretty easy and keep an eye on each other for any signs of altitude sickness.

Breakfast was a deviation from the norm as the Namrung Fourseasons (yes that really is the name, I presume the trademark attorneys are circling) didn’t have Tibetan bread but did have toast. So we variously had toast, boiled eggs and one omelette washed down with real espresso coffee (two for me!) which interesting was a change from our standard fare but probably not as well received as we had thought.

Arch reported in sick and swallowed a couple of Imodium immediately after breakfast, seems the cold stodgy noodles from last night have gotten him. He seems ok albeit a bit off colour and is adamant he can get through the day. He is a trooper!

Himal departed before us and was going to run ahead to secure rooms at a place in Sama that was highly recommended in the guide book. So we are essentially self guiding today.

The day started off quite well, a bit overcast but not to cold then after about two and half hours it started raining just before we got to the village of Sho, so a stop and coats on but not wet or cold enough to worry about over-trou.

Stopped in Sho and had a look at a really lovely Gompa on the side of the trail. It had prayer wheels right around the outside so we did the obligatory circumnavigation.

By the time we arrived in the next village Lho it was raining quite hard so we stopped for lemon tea and spotted Bounty bars in the little cabinet so had the healthy morning tea option!

Leaving Lho it was raining quite hard and the cloud was down around us so visibility we pretty minimal. There were quite a number of intersecting tracks and at each junction we either made a guess or tried to ask a local. Interestingly the guide book said leaving Lho you did a steep descent to the river whereas we were climbing steeply albeit parallel to the river. Anyway we plodded on getting comfort, perhaps misguided from the fact that, using our best childhood cowboys and Indians tracking techniques, we thought there were other boot points in the mud.

After about 45 minutes we crossed the/a river on a swing bridge that didn’t appear on the map then descended into another valley where we could finally see the Manaslu Circuit proper perhaps 2/3 Haka below us. Our hopes it would rise up to us were dashed as we descended to it bit it was good to be back on the correct trail nevertheless.

The trail then passed through the village of Shyala where the real changes occurring in this part of Nepal were immediately obvious. There were several very large new tea houses with a number more under construction. It was clear that what was probably only three years ago (pre earthquake) a small trading village is now positioned for a big influx of trekkers. Progress like this is sad for us to see but frankly it terms of improving the lot of the locals should be applauded. Just people like us who want isolated spaces need to look further afield.

After Shyala it was a damp but not overly taxing walk (Nepalese flat) up and over a ridge to Sama.

Sama like Shyala had gone through a big development to accommodate trekkers. In the case of Sama the original old part of the village is relatively untouched with people living very much as they have for centuries, in stone houses with stone shingle rooves and yards facing west (for the afternoon sun) housing the family livestock. You pass through this and on the north eastern side of the village a a number of large tea houses established for trekkers.

This tea house boasted heated dining room, attached bathrooms, hot showers, and electricity. It was for these luxuries we decided to stay here. Turns out, dining room is only heated by a very small pot belly stove that is not lit until about 6.00pm, bathrooms are attached to the building not the bedrooms, there is one hot shower (400rp), there are some basins on the outside areas but they have no taps, and no charging plugs but lights do go on from about 5.00pm until 9.00pm. So another case for the Commerce Commission!

Anyway the beds were very comfortable and frankly it is no worse than anything else we’ve stayed in here.

Arch starting to feel pretty bad so went to bed once we arrived and Chris, Gordie and I sat in the dining room chatting while I completed a bit more of the blog.

Again an early night with everyone off to bed by 8.00pm.

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