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Published: July 27th 2009
Day 3 Ghermu-Tal
Glenny making walking sticksTrekking in the Annapurnas
Well the Annapurna's, are indeed one of the best trekking routes in the world, and we certainly agree with that! However very sadly they are changing at a rapid rate and we may be some of the last to see them in this very state!
We spoke to a lady whom is studying climate change focusing on the Annapurna's, and she informed us that they are in the beginning stages of building a road right through the Annapurna's for trade between China (which should be Tibet) and India. It seems Nepal is crushed between 2 of the world superpowers, and there is not much say for them here!
So it began with a roof top bus journey, (which seems to be the preferred way to travel within Nepal) to the start of the trail, with some Americans which we continued to leap frog the first half of the trail with. The first day was mainly travelling to the end of the road to begin the trail. So day 2 was our official first walking day, and that we did for the next 19 days. The trail winding along the great Marsyangdi river, walking through
Day 3 -Tal
The harshly treated donkeys bringing in supplies rice paddies, tropical rainforest, small villages and farming land, gaining height each day until we reached Braga at 3360m. Braga was a very stunning village built into the side of sandstone hills, very steep with each homes verandah making the roof of the house below. It is a 16th century village with a beautiful Gompa that was built in 1501, making it one of the oldest in the area, with ancient scriptures from Tibet. It was closed at the time but a lady in the next door house popped out at just the right time and took us through the ancient monastery, some of the prayer wheels and statues of Buddha looking as if they were made of paper mache and decorated beautifully many years ago.
Braga had some great acclimatizing walks we could do so we based ourselves here for 3 days. The Americans were in a rush to make the pass before monsoon so we said farewell to them here whilst we continued to explore.
The following day we headed for Milarepa's Cave at 4005m, Milarepa was a Tibetan saint-poet whom meditated in this cave for much of his life in the 12th century and it is on
Day 4 -Danagyu
One of the many prayer wheels and mani walls the Buddhist pilgrimage route. The walk is a steep one and is adjacent to the glacier descending down from Annapurna III which stands at 7555m.
It was windy and freezing and we were both feeling the altitude and were about to head back down as we didn't have many supplies, when a monk appeared and ushered us into his hermitage. We were both feeling vague so followed without a word. There was another monk sitting by a fire in the middle of the floor with some hot water boiling and passed us both a cup of hot sweet tea, exactly what we needed! One was from Tibet and the other an old Bragan. We couldn't speak much to them but they didn't seem interested in that, and just encouraged us to warm ourselves with gestures. The Tibetan then unwrapped some very old scriptures written in Tibetan on loose-leafs from Milarepa himself and read the scriptures aloud amusing each other with various parts of the sacred text! We listened in whilst also sneaking glimpses of their hermitage and wondering just what they lived on as there was no trace of any food or food supplies, 1 blanket each and not much
of anything else except a broom made of grass.
We finished the tea and the younger monk showed us the remainder of the way to Milrepa's cave on a steep mountain ledge covered in prayer flags. Feeling refreshed we did a short meditation and appreciated the magnificent view of the glacier descending down into the valley.
The following day was a long walk to 4500m to a mountain ice lake, would have been superb views, looking back onto Annapurna II at 7937m, and down to Annapurna III and Gangapurna's glaciers. The glaciers were visible but the mountains not through the snow, which continued until the following day.
There was talk in the village that a high lama from Kathmandu was visiting the following day for the start of saga dawa (Buddha's birth) which is marked by days of puja (prayer, offering, prostrations and ceremony) in Manang the next village only 20mins walk, so we packed up and followed, dropping our bags at a guest house and joining the pilgrims at the village gompa. It was full the only room left was the back step so we removed our shoes and perched there only a few seconds before some
Day 6 - Paungi Danda
'Mountain to heaven' Gurangs believe the spirit of the dead make their last journey and Shamens perform rituals. old ladies near the back grabbed us both and pulled us in, positioning us in between them all on a small rug, our legs much bigger than there's they pushed and pulled until we were positioned as they intended. Again we couldn't communicate but gestures go along way and it was basically following the lead of 2 high lamas from Kathmandu at the front of the gompa, sitting on higher seats. In front of them were 2 rows down the centre of the gompa, with monks and the musical instruments used in the ceremony including a Tibetan horn, a conch shell and drum. Another row behind them of more monks with scriptures and mantra's, the remaining space filled with lay people of surrounding villages. One of the lamas was born in the village and returns every 3 years with another high lama to lead the ceremony so we were incredibly lucky, and then to be welcomed into the gompa was even better!
We knew some of the mantras and others we just pretended to, but it seemed it wasn't long before the blessed milk tea and Tibetan bread came around for a snack break as it is generally a dawn
Day 7 - Ghyara 4600m
Lady with ulcerated lips we gave our bonjella to. to dusk thing without breaking the puja, all the ladies fussing about us ensuring our tea cup was never empty.
Dusk arrived and everyone formed a bowing path for the high lamas to leave. We exited behind where the sun was setting over a clear Himalayas, It was our first glimpse at the completely clear vista, with Manaslu behind at 8163m (the eighth highest peak in the world) then Annapurna II at 7937m, Annapurna III at 7555m, and Gangapurna at 7454m with the glaciers pushing right into the valley's.
We took to the roof of our guest house to absorb the view, where we noticed 2 familiar faces on the next doors roof doing the same thing! It was James an Aussie that was sitting next to Glen in Vipassana and Belle a kiwi girl that sat next to Leanne in Vipassana! We didn't know they were travelling together, had heard separately they had possible plans of heading to the Annapurna's but dates were different. So we had lost our American trekkers but formed a new team which was perfect timing to do the pass together, as there are few trekkers around at this time of year as monsoon is
Day 8 - Buddha
In the ancient Braga Gompa expected any day. We made plans to walk with them the following day and went to the dining room for dinner, as we warmed ourselves with a cup of milk tea the high lamas attendant walked in, we both nearly dropped our tea cups to respectfully bow with our hands in prayer position as is customary. Then he stopped to talk to us, luckily he made the conversation as we were both stumped with his near perfect English, he told us that the high lama was headed to Milarepa's cave the following day for seven days of meditation with the 2 hermits we had tea with, and was staying at our guest house!!! We were the only guests with the lama, his attendant and a group of monks travelling with the lama.
We were too excited to sleep, breakfasted with his entourage, as he posed for photographs on the roof and we hit the road.
A perfectly sunny day, the walk was beautiful to Yak Kharka (yak grazing lands at 4020m), the view unfolding before us of higher peaks, rocky and arid terrain.
The following day was onto Thorung Phedi base camp at 4430m where the 4 of us had
a sleepless night due to altitude. We headed off at 5am for the pass. We had a small collection of AMS symptoms between us but not enough not to make it, and without porter or guide it was a slow walk, but a great triumph reaching the pass at 5416m by 11am, we all laid on the ground for the next hour enjoying the clear views. It was a steep descent down to Muktinath on the other side. We rested here another day before completing the circuit back to Tatopani hot pools. Hot pools would have been more appreciated whilst at altitude, but seemed ridiculous back in the lowland heat, so a cold shower it was until nightfall.
We are now back in Pokhara, a little cleaner, a lot warmer and have a farewell dinner with our great new trekking friends tonight, before venturing to Kathmandu.
Lots of Love
Glen and Leanne
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Sim
non-member comment
Wow
Its so beautiful it makes me want to cry. Oh leanne (and Glenn), you are both so amazing, thankyou for sharing your amazing journey, and adventure with us. It looks wonderful, and you are both looking amazing. Miss you very much, and am in awe. Im so so proud of you xoxoxoxo There truely is an amazing world out there. Love you very much Simmy xoxoxox