Captivating Kathmandu

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It is strange to think that I only really came to Kathmandu in preparation for my proposed trek to Everest Base Camp (more on that later) It is such a unique and wonderful city to see and totally unlike any other place I have come across before. The one-time tie-dye hippy hang out centre is now unavoidably moving forward with the times. Now, rather than hippies, you're more likely to see goretex-clad climber-types looking out of place wandering the warm dusty streets in fake North Face gear, dwarfing the intricate and beautifully preserved buildings. For trekkers and climbers Kathmandu may sometimes be just a gateway to the Himalayas, but it does offer so much more than that. I had the feeling during my whole time exploring that I would want to return and spend longer wandering the squares, tiny streets and back alleys. You could easily take weeks or months to really scratch the surface of this place. There is always so much going on, the atmosphere is buzzing and yet people are chilled out enough to come and talk and discuss what is going on. There are plenty of locals and tourists hanging around the communal areas, chatting, 'people-watching' and it's actually quite addictive. The various temples are probably the most interesting areas for a tourist as they are living, breathing religious centres for the Nepali people and a part of real daily life which is separate from all the tourist, trekking hype. I happened to witness a number of different local blessings and ceremonies taking place, some individual prayers and offerings and some more family affairs, I am told to bring luck and prosperity to the family. One such family gathering at a local temple (the name of which I am trying to remember) I was able to photograph. This side of Kathmandu is direct contrast to the bookshops, internet cafes, western-style restaurants and shops packed with trekking and climbing gear and books. Some may feel the tourist invasion somewhat spoils the atmosphere but I'll admit for me, I found Thamel and the rest of the Kathmandu valley, Patan, Bhaktapur and so on a great contrast. I have never felt so entirely comfortable in a new city. I wandered the streets the evenings until 10pm at night (avoid poorly lit alleys!) without concern and found it reasonably easy to navigate. I did plenty of shopping, acquired a down jacket and a couple of other bits of kit for the trek and generally had a great time. Next was the trekking part of the trip and I would be meeting with my friend Clarisa for this.

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