Goodbye Nepal

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Good-bye Nepal

I did enjoy my time in Kathmandu/Tamal, but one should really only come to Nepal to trek and/or raft.  The Kathmandu valley is probably beautiful, but, like my time in India, the view was greatly obstructed by what i believe is smog.  Supporting my smog theory is the fact that my health seems to be slowly deteriorating...

I did have a pretty good time here and am glad that i came.  The last couple of days had a pattern of motorbiking in the first half of the day and then eating, napping and looking around the Tamal Bazaar. The day would finish with evening Yoga, one more eat and then i would collapse exhausted in my bed. 

The motorbike rides were pretty epic for me.  First i would spend about an hour battling my way through the Kathmandu traffic.  I will admit that i did get bumped by a car, which bruised my leg (thankfully not the bike) and greatly reduced my confidence.  I had broken my rule of staying in a pack of other bikes, or shadowing a bus.  Anyway, it added to the experience and my confidence came back, but to a lessor extent.

Each day i would have to pass a military check-point or three up in the hills.  It was another awkward experience; the first went like this:

Armed Officer, "hallo"
Me, ""Hello, Namaste"
Silence as we look at each other.
Armed Officer, "Biblee Boo Bhah Yababa"
Me, "I am sorry, i only speak English"
Armed Officer, "war you froming?"
Me, "oh, Canada.  I am not from the USA, I am from C A N A D A".
Silence as we look at each other.
Armed Officer,"No.  War you froming?"
Me, "uh, Kathmandu?"
Armed Officer,"war you go toing?"
Me, "uh, i don't know, what is up this road?  Am i allowed to travel up this road?"
Silence as we look at each other.
Armed Officer,"go".
Silence.
Me,"okay bye thank-you, Namaste".

So, i quickly learned that if i salute them as i pass they would just ignore me.  I am 90% sure they are looking for certain minorities, or (more likely) doing safety checks.  I write this from the airport, after passing security, so it does not look like i am a wanted man (in Nepal at least).

The roads were very cool and, as in India, i could see myself returning with a larger dual-sport bike.  I was able to ride up twisty little mountain roads that pass through villages every 2-3km.  Yesterday i was riding along, proud that i was moving pretty good, when i realized i was barely keeping up with a bus that had about 15 people sitting on its roof!  I believe traveling by motorbike is not the most dangerous of choices in Nepal (see my Facebook pic of a bus that missed a corner).

The rides would generally lead to villages that had views of the big Himalayas.  These mountains are about 2.5 times larger than the Rockies and it shows.  What little i could see through the smog/fog/smoke was stunning.  Hiking in these monsters should be on all of our "bucket lists".  Seeing trekkers coming and going in Tamal hurt me a little.  I felt like i was at a buffet, but only allowed to eat the salad. I must return to trek someday.

Restaurants in Tamal were more expensive than India, likely because it is a major tourist zone.  Other items were less expensive.  My cab ride to the airport took 45 minutes and cost $4.25 so i tipped another $1.25.  My hotel (not up to many people's standards) was $12 and that included breakfast.  My motorbike cost $8 per day and my flight to Mumbai (3 hours) was about $90. The street kid who kept my bike safe during the day only charged $0.75 and was thrilled when i offered double the extortion. I had to move the bike inside the secure area in my guest house at night.

I have one more sleep tonight in Mumbai and then i start the long journey home.  I am so anxious to get home to my girls that i would do it standing up if i had to. I would do it half naked if i had to! Well, that is what the Indians think of a man in shorts and a t-shirt anyway...

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