mero naya ghar (my new house)

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I moved into the new place, and I’m loving my first night here. It’s cold since I have no heat (except for an electric heater), and my toaster over doesn’t seem to be working, but otherwise I think it’s going to be fun. The hot water works, I have cable (which includes BBC, CNN, HBO, and Friends with Arabic subtitles), and my new didi is available anytime I want since her family lives in the compound, although I only officially employ her 3 days per week. She helped me unpack today—she lined up all of my books on the shelf under the TV and put all of my toiletries (including pantiliners and deodorant) on the shelf in the shower. She comes tomorrow at 11am to go shopping with me for vegetables, and then she will make me lunch, clean, do my laundry, and then cook dinner. She speaks no English, but that will be good for my Nepali. And if needed, my landlady is usually home to help translate. There are also 3 dogs--Bruno, Ling-Ling, and the other whose name I forget. They are all cute, but I was told one might bite until he gets used to me. Good thing I had those 3 rabies shots. I also discovered that there’s a vegetable market a 2-minute walk away on a basketball court. Tonight when I walked by there was a cow outside the gate munching on some trash.

Moving out was pretty easy. Bom helped Beejay load the van, so it took less than an hour to load, drive to the new place, and unload. Renuka said she wanted to come with me, and I thought that was sweet. But then it suddenly struck me that she probably wanted to ask the landlady how much I am paying, since I told her I didn’t know because Fulbright pays her directly. I was right; that was one of the first things she asked Sangeeta. I’m sure she also asked how much I am paying my didi.

I think I’m going to be happy here. I can fix myself a snack whenever I want, I don’t have to feel guilty if I don’t feel like being social, and because it’s newer than the other place, it doesn’t have the layer of Kathmandu crud on everything yet. Tomorrow Beejay will bring a desk so I can set up my work space. I think I’ll enjoy working at home more and won’t have to spend so much money at various coffee shops.

My birthday party was a lot of fun—not awkward like I was expecting. 5 Fulbright students, my friend at the Indian Embassy, and a friend from the beauty shop that gave me a facial all showed up. It was a little more formal than I wanted—they served a full sit-down dinner—but it was nice. Bom and Dinesh’s brother (who worked as a chef in an Indian restaurant in London for 9 years) did all of the cooking, Kiran served, and Indra washed dishes. There were also a couple of other men I recognized but do not know how they are connected to the family. All of the guys stayed down in the kitchen for the most part, drinking Tuborg beer. I toasted with them before all of the guests arrived.

I also got a number of nice gifts—a box of chocolate, a bottle of wine from Bordeaux, silver earrings, and a beautiful suede bag that is hand embroidered from Renuka. She said she was going to get me another pashmina, but she remembered seeing me admire the bag, so she thought that was better. It really is beautiful, and I’ve already been using it. And the earrings from Bindiya are just my style. She also gave me a cute birthday card in which she wrote, “To Michelle R. Kaufman, U.S.A. from Bindiya Lama, Kathmandu, Nepal.” I’m guessing she was looking at my business card when she wrote that. I was really glad that she came.

The cakes I ordered from the Radisson pastry shop were well worth the money! Tasted like birthday cake! They served it to me on big silver trays with candles around it. Everyone sang happy birthday, I blew out the candles, and then Bindiya fed me a piece. It was a ton of cake, but all 15 or so people could have a piece of each—chocolate and carrot. After the cake, Sandeep played his guitar and some other guy who I’m not sure how is related sang a Nepali folk song for me while everyone clapped and swayed back and forth. Definitely a Nepali style birthday! Although I missed my friends and family who would normally help me celebrate, this was the next best thing.

Tonight a bunch of Fulbrighters went out for Ajay’s birthday at a restaurant across from Bhat Bhateni supermarket called Delicias. I had spinach and cheese empanadas, jasmine tea, and took home a piece of apple crumb pie, all for 300 Rs. Definitely a place I will go back to when my didi isn’t cooking some night and I’m too tired to cook for myself. It was also nice to hang out with other Fulbrighters. We talked about things like the beauty of hot showers and water pressure, who risks their health and eats fresh veggies, and how you can’t have sex with a Nepali unless you plan on getting married (a number of the guys are single).

Now I’m eating my apple pie and am about to watch Ali McBeal on my TV rather than my laptop. Although my place is chilly and the couch is uncomfortable, it’s small and charming. Maybe having my own place will make the time here go quicker since I’ll be able to feel like I’m in my own home, rather than someone else’s.

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