Advertisement
Published: October 22nd 2007
Edit Blog Post
Prayer flags, Kathmandu
taken from Swayambhunath Stupa, the Monkey Temple Getting there
After three days of eating, drinking and mainly chilling out in Bangkok, I flew to Kathmandu with Thai Airways. Bangkok was the 1st stop of my round the world trip and the best way for me to get to Nepal. I gave up going trough India after visa complications and fully booked flights due to the trekking high season of October/ November.
I had my visa application form already printed out and filled out from home, but being prepared didn't spare the long wait for my Nepali visa. After queuing over an hour, I tried to get a multiple entry visa as I would be staying more than 60 days but the woman told me there would be no need and no amount of arguing was going to change her mind. I will see what happens when I try to come back from Tibet…
There were about a hundred touts waiting for me upon leaving the airport, I gave in straight away and went with the 1st one who bundled me into a mini Hiace that drove me trought the mental streets of Kathmandu to a quiet expensive hotel, just perfect for the 1st night.
Thamel
My 1st
Monks
Swayambhunath Stupa, the Monkey Temple week was spent in Thamel area of Kathmandu which is a network of narrow polluted streets full of guest houses, restaurants, bars, and shops selling all kinds of books, souvenirs and fake trekking gear. I found a cheaper hotel which was closer to restaurants and bars- a shorter and brighter walk home after a few beers! I talked to a few trekking companies which gave me an idea of price and how it all works but meant I got hassled by the touts every day about when I was going to book with their company. Eventually I told them I had booked with another company and just learned to ignore them and any local who said 'Namaste' (hello), in Thamel anyway.
Swayambhunath Stupa
Needing a break from Thamel I walked to Swayambhunath Stupa or better known as the Monkey Temple which took about half an hour. I walked up the many steep steps which lead to the temple surrounded by souvenir sellers, snake charmer, monkeys and loads of eagles flying above the hill. I then walked around the centre stupa and turned the prayer wheels engraved with 'Om Mani Padmi Hum' (probably the mast famous mantra in Buddhism) and
Old Man
old folks home beside Pashupati, waiting for the inevitable... when I realized I was walking the wrong way I walked in the proper clockwise direction hoping no one had noticed! Next I wandered into the monastery and ended on the roof which allowed me to get great panoramic shots but had to come down after a monk spotted me and gestured to get the hell off! Downstairs I sat with other tourists listening to the monks praying, chanting, eating (part of payers) banging various drums and blowing big horns. I am sure they are well used to tourists but felt wrong and left when some tourists mobile phone went off…
Pashupati
The next day I walked to Pashupati Temple where bodies are burned and sent down the river. It was a lot longer walk than the previous day and I ate a lot of nasty fumes on the way, still good exercise for what lay ahead… Got picked up by a guide and paid him a little more than the entrance fee and would have missed a lot if I hadn't. 1st we visited the old folks home where they go at 65yrs and wait there the rest of their days for their turn by the river. Had
Sadu- holy man
finally got shot without having to give donation! a nice conversation with two mother Theresa nuns before setting off. We skipped the entrance and went the 'Nepali way', up the side of the river the ceremonies are performed past grieving families preparing to burn their loved ones… From the other side of the river we watched (locals and tourists) the ceremony. They layed petals and other things on the wrapped body and walked around it many times before it was layed on the stone altar. More rituals were performed around the body, with a constant weeping, crying and sometimes screaming from the family… Only saw a handful of monkeys yesterday at the Monkey Temple but here they were everywhere and not one bit scared of humans. As I took a photo of a little cute monkey it reacted by hissing at me like a blood thirsty vampire, a local lad then told me not to make eye contact with them or they might attack or bite! Up some steps sat a group of Sadus who are Holy Men (glorified beggars) sat asking to be photographed for a small fee. They look amazing with their painted faces and colourful clothes but if I gave one of them money they'd
Child at Pashupati
with burning body in background all want some. Later I was delighted when I found one asleep on the ground and was able to shoot at my hearts content!
Durbar Sqaure
My third day of sight seeing I walked again this time to Durbar Square where Nepali Royalty used to live among a maze of temples and is a hub of activity during any Nepali Festival. Again I got picked up by a guide and showed around, 1st the temple where Kumari the living goddess resides. She is picked out at a very young age as a goddess reincarnation and brought to live in this temple with very little outside contact. She is only allowed outside once a year in a special carriage and paraded around Kanthmandu. Eventually when she reaches puberty she is free of this honour/ curse but a normal life is no longer really possible as marriage will bring her and family very bad luck.
After a mass of other temples all very interesting, my guide took me to a local restaurant and ordered local food and drink. We ate Sukati- dryed buffalo which tasted like fire and Baggi- dryed and flattened rice. Neither of us were able to finish, I
People watching
ceremony at Pashupati like spicy but this was too much. We washed it down with Rashi- an extremely strong rice alcohol, nice but went straight to my head in the afternoon heat! Left my new friend after he tried to get ridiculous amount of money from me for his few hours guiding, you think they are genuine then realise they just want money...
The next few days I spent organizing my trek to Everest Base Camp.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.117s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 8; qc: 51; dbt: 0.0571s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb