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Published: April 14th 2006
"We advise against all but essential travel to Nepal during the current period of enhanced tension, as there is a risk of being caught up in the violence on the streets. Those British Nationals already in Nepal should decide whether their presence is essential." . Well that's just typical isn't it. Just as I fly in. Welcome, as they say, to the magical country of Nepal. Is my presence essential? Depends on my current ego, but I think not. Nevertheless, I have been looking forward to visiting this country more than any other on my trip, and a little bit of violence adds to the pub stories.
Ok, bad joke. Let me tell you how it's been for me so far. Generally, the situation in Nepal has reached the international community's attention for a couple of weeks now, as the clashes between the civilians and the King come to head. In a tiny nutshell, with my somewhat limited political vocabulary, 14 months ago, the King decided to abolish the Democratically elected government and govern with absolute power. Many people wen're too happy about this. 14 months later, they're still not happy, and I don't think I'd be too
far off the mark in saying they may be a little angry - if the mass riots, arrests of journalists, and consequent injuries and deaths in Kathmandu and other towns and cities are anything to go by. I'm in Kathmandu too. Yey! All the fun at the fair.
I arrived here on Tuesday, after an intensive 3-way trip via Kuala Lumpar airport (for the 3rd time), and New Delhi, where I stayed for a night in a cheap airport dormitory. Going to Nepal, I thought I was getting away from mosquitos for a few weeks, but typically the last bout of these buzzy bitey things was also the most fierce I've come across. Thus, I became a minger for a night and slept in my clothes to minimise the inevitable attack, which seemed to work except for my now badly bitten hands.
Kathmandu is described in Lonely Planet as "a shock - the sights, sounds and smells can lead to sensory overload…buzzing around the crazy polluted traffic." Travelling in the 800,000population city from the airport, to the Khao San Road-like backpacker district of Thamel, it certainly was a shock but for the opposite of reasons. The place was
dead - no locals wandering the streets, or motorbikes booming about. I've heard louder noises at a Buddhist monastery. The only activity into the heart of the city was a few army men, some army trucks, and a couple of locals staring out of half-closed doors or in upper windows. It was a spine-tingling eerie moment. With backpack inhand, the new kid in town was then escorted to his hotel, where he was confined until the curfew stopped at 5pm (which was also now mandatory for tourists, after a recent tourist demonstration). It makes for an interesting first impression of a country, doesn't it?
At bang on 5pm, it was as if the un-pause button was pressed as the shops opened and streets filled up with life, allowing me to explore the tame Thamel district, that is, until the powercut. Anyone who's been to Thamel will sympathise at getting lost amongst the narrow, busy alleys here, reminiscent of Fes in Morocco, but in the pitch-black, with torch and compass helpfully back at my guest house, and no clue where I was, this first day was becoming memorable for all sorts of reasons. Fortunately, the power came back on and
I breathed a sigh of relief.
The truth is, that's the most scared I've been so far in Nepal - I've honestly felt less safe on a Friday night in Leeds. The population is largely made up of Hindus and Buddhists; very peaceful religions, and as such, are very calm and respectful people. Sure, there's army people with shields, vests and sticks everywhere, on every street corner, police barricades with barbed wire, sandbags and guns peeking out, and evidence of past burnings, but the only violene I've seen was from a god-awful Westerner in Pashupatinath (which I'll come to in a minute) and half a dozen locals shouting and pointing, followed by a similar number of soldiers runing past me towards them before they dispersed. I fear if I went further down that particular street, my story would be different now, but I made a promise and turned and walked in the opposite direction back to Durbar Square, abruptedly ending my Old City tour. Reading the national newspapers, the country is not well, especially in the smaller towns, but it is from a small minority, and naturally, the media focuses on it to make the situation appear worse than
it is to the international community. So please have no fear, I am ok and have my wits about me.
Tomorrow I fly to Lukla to begin my trek to Everest Base Camp, and maybe Gokyo Ri too, and will thus be out of touch for over 2 weeks. The last 3 days have therefore been spent organising the trek, and hiring a bike to explore the Kathmandu Valley. This valley is the historic centre of Nepal, the heart of the old trade routes between Tibet and India, where entire Kingdoms were formed and destroyed and at only about 30km across, makes for a great few days of exploration by bike (with gears this time).
The first full day, I explored Kathmandu and nearby Patan City, both with amazing old towns and a true feast on the eyes, such that I took about 70 photos yet still felt I was being reserved. The Durbar (Royal) Square in Kathmandu was the single most impressive part of any city I've ever been to - temples of every architectural design, some with intriguingly erotic carvings on them (sorry, kids read this, so no photos here), and a few of which (temples,
not porn) are great places to watch the people from all walks of life going about their daily routine below. I was even interviewed on TV for an English language educational programme, while sitting at the steps of one of the temples, which resulted in a crowd of around 100 people obliviously staring at me, that seem to unnerve me more than the officers with guns.
I then made my way back to Patan, across the Holy (and extremely pongy) Bagmati River, a quietr version of Kathmandu, where I strolled through the streets taking in the local way of life - kids playing hoop-la, temples, old men making offerings, temples, women in colourful clothing collecting water in bronze urns from a communal well, other men themselves wandering and staring at me, temples (yes, I've done this joke before, but it's even more apparent here), the market sellers in the busy old district Durbar square selling everything from popcorn to panpipes, and the giving of the 'tika' - a mark of blessing on the forehead. I had only been here one full day so far, yet I was already falling in love with the country like no other.
On the scond of 3 days before flying out, I cycled to Pashupatinath, described by one traveller as a place more intimate than Varanasi (or a cunningly disguised phrase probably just meaning smaller than Varanasi). Smaller it may well be, but possibly the most inspiring and fascinating town I've been to so far, inciting an array of emotions stronger than I've felt for any other cultural place. There were some burnings on the Ghats, vibrant colours everywhere from flowers, clothing, food, powder-paints and decorations - beats a sombre funeral where everyone wears black. There are many, what we would regard as strange Hindu rules too; everyone weats white as a mark of respect, if a mother dies the siblings must not eat salt for a week, and if one's father's brother's 2nd cousin dies one can not eat egg yolk on alternate Tuesdays after every 3rd three-quarter moon…or something like that.
I was also fortunate to witness the funeral of a man at the top of the social hierarchy - 100s of flowers were thrown on him, a conch shell was blown, holy water from te river was cupped and brought to his mouth, the army stood guard and
Maju Deval temple
in Kathmandu Durbar Square. Perfect place to sit and watch the world go by.played trumpets, and then he was set alight with the wood, while 100s watched, and 100 monkeys played on and ate the offerings, oblivious to the goings on. I sat and contemplated.
Unfortunately, the silence around these Ghats and the holy peace and calm was disturbed by an act so despicable I have nothing to compare it to. And the worst part? It was caused bya 30-something British man. I would like to tell you here all about it, but this blog is getting longer and also, writing the situation and describing my feelings are two separate things, both hard to do. In short, a dog (on a leash, I might add), bit the British guy (let's call him 'Gimp') on the leg. Nasty obviously, and I hope the Gimp doesn't get rabies. However, this does not give Gimp the right to find stones to throw at full force at the dog who then ran inside squeeing, to then shout at the poor Napalese owner of 70years of age, to order him to bring the dog back out so he can throw more stones (this being less than 50m from the Ghats and one of the holiest temles in
Nepal). Nor does he have the right to come back 10 minutes later, after the police intervened and left, to force the door open with huge rocks of the now screaming family's house, go inside and continue to throw stones at full force inside the house. I nearly vomited I felt so bad. Truly awful. And one wonders why Westerners often have a bad image.
As it happens, I was in a shop with him and his girlfriend today, and as I left I turned to say something to him, but all that came out of my mouth were 2 small, puny sentences about how dare he do that, disturb the peace and the most disgusting thing I've ever seen, before my voice quietened and wobbled, and I had to leave to regain control of myself, shaking with anger. I guess I'm a man not used to confrontation.
It was only midday and mixed emotions were already abound, as I then made my way on foot through an open residential area surrounded by fields, slightly lost, to the Boudha Stupa. One thing I've realise whilst travelling is that often the best way to see and feel a place
is to do just that - get lost. It works wonders I assure you. However, no sooner had my body got over the earlier incident that I stumbled across a kid's football match abruptedly stop play and the crowds to run off. When I realised they were running towards something - rather than away from danger - I followed, and discovered the top floor of a house in flames and covered in the thickest black smoke. Thankfully, I don't think anyone was hurt, and the locals impressively and eventually put it out, but I doubt anything was left in tact, and my brain was beginning to go into overload mode.
If that wasn't enough (and finally, to those concerned that their dinner's getting cold), I get to the busy Boudha Stupa, to be approached by a Tibetan Monk exiled from Lhasa 18years ago, as if sensing my current disbelief. A wonderfully happy and funny man, who makes you think everything is right with the world, Dorje Lama showed me around his monastery, adorned me in a khata (white scarf), blessed and hugged me, and set me on my way again. The Stupa itself is the religious centre of the
Nepalese Tibetans, where the culture is alive and unfettered, and bloody huge! Well, it is one of the largest in the world. Sitting on it, with beads hitting me from being dropped above, basking in the 30oC sun (which now scarily feels cooler - doesn't bode well for Everest), I go through the events that make up the most intriguing day of my travels so far, before cycling back to town to sleep peacefully.
Today I've just been buying food, walking the streets and watching the rejoices of the 1st day of New Year, as the sun lowers and shadows grow around Durbar Square. It appears I've lost my comical touch in this day-by-day account blog, but with lots of photos, I hope you don't mind. Anyways, Caroline has offered to write about Thailand very soon, and is far funnier than I. Wishing you all well, 6 months into my trip. Byebye, Simon x
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Kathy
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Hey Seem'oh!
You know... maybe there wouldn't be so much tension/violence on the streets if your people didn't try to colonize my people... bad joke! Anyway, as always, it's good to hear from you. Sounds like you're having an eventful trip. I hope you're enjoying your extended vacation and not getting into too much trouble. Take care of yourself!! Kathy xo