Bhaktapur, Historic City

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One of my favorite places in Nepal is the town of Bhaktapur. The Kathmandu Valley is home to three ancient cities, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. At one time each of these cities was its own Newar kingdom with its own king. The kings would vie with each other in an effort to build the most beautiful and magnificent temples. Because of that, each city has a fabulous Royal Palace area adjoining the main city temple square. Of the three, Kathmandu has suffered because it is the seat of the Nepalese government, and so all of the government facilities, main foreign aid offices, and most of the big businesses reside there. The result is the chaotic madness that has become Kathmandu.

Bhaktapur is several kilometers from Kathmandu, on the opposite end of the valley. For years the Germans were active there attempting to help the city preserve its historic character, as well as providing opportunities for cottage industries to generate income for the residents. Ben and I always try to make it to Bhaktapur at least once each time we come to Nepal.

In the past there was a fairly well run trolley that would go all the way to Bhaktapur. That trolley wasn’t running anymore so we had to take a local bus. The traffic was so horrific I really thought it would take us 2 hours to get there. Sadly, the traffic situation in the Kathmandu Valley is so awful that it makes L.A rush hour traffic seem pleasant by comparison. In the photos you can see the chaos. Now imagine the never ending high pitched ear splitting honks and the smell of the fumes and you can get an idea of how bad it is.

I was concerned that Bhaktapur had been ruined by traffic and chaos since the last time I had been there, especially considering the level of chaos we encountered on the way there. It was a great relief to find it pretty much unchanged. The streets were mostly clean and clear of motor vehicles. The Newar nature of the community remained apparent, as great numbers of people from around the country had not relocated there. I was expected to pay $13 to enter the main palace area, and was glad to see that the money which is being collected is being used to clean the streets, and maintain the temples. Ben and I were sorry that his family isn’t from Bhaktapur. There they would be able to live in a fairly peaceful place where children can actually play in the courtyards without fear of being struck down by a motorcycle. Unfortunately, because the Newars are so rooted to their communities, it would be hard for family members to relocate there without sacrificing the lifelong relationships that define so much of their lives. For them, it is better to suffer suffocating air pollution and impenetrable crowds than to lose the social fabric of their family and friends.

The trip home from to Kathmandu was even worse than the trip there, being at rush hour in the late afternoon. The sheer mass of people everywhere was so overwhelming that it felt like you could easily disappear amongst them. Sadly, the chaos makes taking outings difficult, even though it is worth it when you get there.

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Photos

Traffic
A brief glimpse of traffic.

More traffic
Imagine banging on an electronic keyboard with the sound on high volume. That gives you a slight idea of the noise that accompanies the traffic.

Our luxurious bus
It worked just fine and went directly where it was supposed to, so there was no room for complaints.

Hidden temples
A temple quietly residing within a secret courtyard. The Newars typically lived around hundreds of varying sized courtyards hidden around their cities. Only locals can find their way through the winding alleys and courtyards, most of which have some sort of stupa, temple or deity statue within them. This temple has three different statues of the garuda, or god of the skies, protecting the front of it.

A doorway into a private world
From the street you can see that a doorway leads somewhere, but unless you investigate you would not know that there is an entire temple inside that courtyard.

An old world
From the roof of our restaurant there is a beautiful view of one of the main temple squares. You can see that Bhaktapur is refreshingly free of crowds and seems quite peaceful.

Just like 3 tourists
Bhaktapur is surrounded by green hills and villages

Industrialization
Unfortunately many of the smog creating brick factories are also on the outskirts of Bhaktapur. You can see the smoke stacks from these factories protruding from the earth.

Posing on the rooftop
Lilia was anxious to pose. In the background is one of the main temples of the city.

Fruits and temples
Just a little glimpse of life coexisting with history. The building is a really fine example of traditional Newar architecture with the carved windows and doorways. The fruit vendor in the front does nothing to detract from the charm of the building.

The big lions
The temple is guarded by some imposing lion statues, both massive in size and fine in detail. Lilia has a fascination with this mythic lions, having remembered them since she came here many years before.

Bhaktapur's most famous temple
This is one of the largest and finest temples in the Kathmandu Valley. It survived a major earthquake intact while other buildings around it fell into rubble.

An old world plaza
This temple square enjoys the quiet pleasantness of an old world plaza. Occasionally a motorcycle drives through, but otherwise it is a place that everyone nearby can enjoy. This photos is from the top of the steps of the large temple.

The old royal courtyard
The palace square is well maintained and clean.

Photo by Lilia
Photo by Lilia. Her cousin Sweta joined us that day.

Many styles of architecture
This temple is an example of South Indian style architecture, carved completely in stone in contrast to the brick and wood style of the Newars.

photos by lilia
Photo by Lilia again. She has become quite adamant about taking photos herself.

Trans fat fun
Our tea shop. Bhaktapur was famous for having famous jeeri, a fried donut like treat that was traditionally cooked in pure ghee (clarified butter) The jeeri we had was definitely not fried in pure ghee, and like many Newar specialties is now made in a hydrogenated shortening that ruins the taste.

Himalayan world
The Himalayas peep out from the clouds to remind us that not far from Kathmandu is a life lived in extreme conditions. The highest mountains in the world are home to many different ethnic groups, many of which are Tibetan Buddhists.

Comments

[Bhima]

Bhaktapur
I look forward to your travel blogs...they are an interesting read. Thanks for posting them. Bhaktapur was also one of my favorite places...did you try juju dhau? :)