The Annapurna's

---

'Namaste' everyone!
I can't quite believe it's been over a month since I left England. As most of you know I left Kathmandu in a hurry - it was far too hectic for me to 'find my feet'. So a flight to Pokhara gave me my first actual view of the Himalaya(s), which are spectacular as you can see. Pokhara is situated south of the Annapurna's and is a great place to explore these majestic mountains or just relax by the lake. After 5 days of 'chilling' I thought it was time to get going, so after a final kit check it was off to the start of the Annapurna Circuit.
220km of rough terrain, anticipating 10-15km of walking per day, climbing over 1000m altitude in a single day, with the highest point being the Thorung La pass at nearly 5500m! Recommended time for completion 2-3 weeks including rest days for acclimatisation. But I had no time constraints, so I was 'happy' to take my time and enjoy the trek rather than being continually focused on the end.
As the bus came to the end of the road, me and 6 other travelers were left standing in the middle of a street with no idea where to go. It later turned out that the 7 of us, 2 Brits, 4 Spanish and me, would become good friends over the next couple of weeks.
The first day really 'set the tone' with wonderful views of lush green valleys dotted with rustic hostels and farmhouses.The first night we were surprised to learn that accommodation was only 20 rupees (less than 20p!) but they make profit from your food. The walking was easy at first, feeling fresh and enthusiastic and 'the pass' seemed a long way away. After a few days the altitude was starting to creep towards 3-3500m and it was time to slow things down a little, maybe half a days walking here and there and spending the other half day admiring where you were. By around day 5 we were deep into the mountain ranges, the scenery became more dramatic, more spectacular, which was a much needed antidote to the ever increasing difficulty of the trek. Price of living was going up as well, but so does the time it takes to get the supplies further along the trek. Some places it takes considerably longer, as much as 5 days! So we were now pretty remote but as said the views just got better and better. The huge, monstrous snow capped mountains were ever looming over you, sweeping down to the valley floor that I slept in. Day 6/7 we decided to rest and took a side trip from one of the villages. 4 hours later we had climbed a staggering 1200m in altitude and as I sat there, looking to my left, there was Annapurna II (7937m), straight ahead Annapurna IV ( 7525m) and to my right Annapurna III (7555m)... incredible!!
The weather was beautiful the whole time until we reached the last 10-15km before the pass, now we were over 4000m which meant freezing cold nights under a ton of blankets in your sleeping bag IN your clothes! Bodily washing was not a priority :o)
The day started early at 5.30am and we were off to the top, walking from 4500m to nearly 5500m in snow. At this altitude I believe there's less than two thirds of the oxygen normally present, so whilst I walked it was difficult to regulate my breathing. I had to stop every 20m's or so just for a few seconds to catch my breath. Then the moment came and we were at the top, a lovely gentlemen poured me a cup of milky, sugary tea which was well appreciated until I had to pay nearly 2 pound 60! But when you think how far all the ingredients and fuel had come, I think it's a small price to pay. So from here it was always going to be down and the other side went down a long way! 1600m descent of knee-jarring and pounding, it was a big relief when we reached the next village.
The villages were tourist driven and to be expected but interspersed were farmhouses where people carry on with their lives. The tourist season had not picked up yet so it was still quiet on the trek - 'result'!
As the end of the trek was looming I wasn't feeling ready to go back to Pokhara so I decided to go the long way, or the 'pretty way' as my Dad would say. Through beautiful forests of rhododendrons, the bright pinks and deep reds contrasted against the snow capped mountains and clear blue skies. It was paradise - almost, except for the steep, steep up and downs if you wanted to go anywhere!
So after 2 weeks of trekking and completing the Annapurna Circuit I found myself at the start of the Annapurna Sanctuary trek i.e. Annapurna base camp (ABC) was only 2 or 3 days away. How could I ignore this, it would be rude not too... the only problem I had was money, there are no banks and I was down to 3000 rupees, I was spending on average 1000 a day. My dilemma: can I make it to ABC and back to the nearest place to get a bus or taxi to Pokhara and a much needed ATM within 3 days?? It wasn't ideal but if I was careful I reckoned I could do it, despite feeling tired after eating vegetarian food for the last 2 weeks.
Well I like a challenge and so I went for it, feeling a little apprehensive at first, what if something happens, like a twisted ankle? there were so many people coming back the other way with knee and ankle supports, but hey "I'm strong now, I can do this" I kept telling myself. So for the next few days it was bare necessities: breakfast: muesli. lunch: spaghetti or rice, dinner: Dal baht, that was it and plenty of iodine treated water - nice!
The main difference between this trek and the circuit were the bloody steps! There were so many, why didn't I use the stair-master at the gym before I went!?? Anyway, armed with an 'ass of steel' I was making great progress, tiring but rewarding. On day 3 I set off at 6am for ABC, in the snow and ice and with boots that were starting to break apart, it was my last push. Finally, standing at the bottom of a dome surrounded by mountains including Annapurna I (8091m), I felt all my efforts paid off. After the feeling subsided I realised the mammoth task I had ahead of me. I now had about 35 km to walk to the nearest town with a bus and about 1200 rupees (12 pounds), but I knew what had to be done and only I was going to get myself out of there - that or a US$400 flight in a helicopter back to Pokhara - bloody cheats!!
I caught up with a couple of guys I'd been meeting along the way and one had similar financial problems to me, so we set ourselves a grueling day of walking and pushed on from 6am to 4.30pm. By the 'ump-tenth' step we were close to exhaustion and collapsed at the next hostel. Our final day consisted of spending every rupee we had on any food we could buy - mmm... flakey crackers.
We arrived at the bus stop and managed to haggle a taxi driver to take us to the ATM in Pokhara. That was a satisfying journey but tinged with feelings of unease. After 2 weeks and 5 days living in basic hostels, eating vegetarian food, hearing birds, seeing flowers, lakes, forests and spectacular mountains, I was now seeing cars, trucks, smoking buses, bikes and they were all honking their horns!
But it has been a great relief to have money to buy food and drink, especially as I reckon I've lost nearly a stone in weight - so if any of you need a crash diet then 3 weeks here I think will sort you out! (and don't forget the ass of steel!)
This experience has been profound on many levels for me, from the stunning scenery, friendly people, travelers from all over the world to the Nepali people and how they live their lives day to day, the cuisine, and the personal challenges, physical, mental and financial. So for me, withdrawing that money from the ATM in Pokhara was truly valued and appreciated... now I can have that beer!

ps I have decided to put all photos on Facebook as they are much quicker to upload

---