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Published: October 9th 2012
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The train pulled into to Ulaanbaatar station exactly on time at 1332hrs. As I left the train I said goodbye to the commandant who was clearly delighted to have shot of me and off I went. I was greeted at the end of the platform by the local guide Nassa a short plump Mongolian woman who just about spoke English. The Aussie sisters were also coming along to the Ger camp and off we we went to a waiting 4x4 car. The locals had to give us a push to get the car going, we were then on our way. We were taken to the Flower hotel to freshen up. I nervously followed as I was led through a dingy corridor to the sauna room. I was handed a towel and with my backpack still strapped to my back I was pushed through a door into a steam filled room. Adjusting to the low light I could see eight low stools each with a bucket on it and placed under a shower, in the corner was a large steaming plunge pool about 18 inches deep. A very uncomfortable communal area! To make me feel more at ease I selected a pair
of flip flops with little union jacks on them from a rack and headed to the shower. I refused to sit in the bucket on the stool and half stood under the dribbling shower trying to avoid the large window to my right that provided the world outside a clear view in. I declined the plunge pool on health and safety grounds. Clean and refreshed we headed off to the Ger camp. On route we stopped at the Chinggiskhan (Genghis Khan) statue a 40m high aluminium structure depicting GK on horseback. It is the most odd looking and out of place monument you can imagine. The head of the horse is a viewing platform with stunning views of the mountains. The Ger camp has ten tents, I was shown to number 25 my home for the next few days. I was next door to the dinning and kitchen tent but thankfully a considerable distance from the long drop toilets (travel tip - don't take anything in that you are not prepared to lose!). At the centre of a ger tent is the Golomt, the fire and hearth which was lit on my arrival. It heated the tent up very quickly
and because it is made of cast iron kept the space warm for some hours. There was a single light bulb swinging from a tent post and a flask of hot water on the table. Although very basic the tent was surprisingly comfortable if not a little drafty at times. Dinner was at 7pm. Perched on a tiny stool at the small table in the dinning room I was served the most delicious food. The meal consisted of a coleslaw starter followed by lamb dumplings with a beetroot salad, all locally produced. Warm tea was served in pint glasses, Nassa added four sugars to hers.
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