From Russia.... to Mongolia

---

Hi again pals,

We've arrived in the coldest capital in the world and its living up to the reputation. Yesterday is was -20 and i think it's the same today. I'm wearing every item of clothing I have and I can still feel it. It's making our noses run so much but we have to be on the ball with tissues because if we let it drip it freezes! Tristan has sneakily bought more base layers than me but it's OK because I've bought a new hat so I'm now doubling-up on headwear which makes a difference!

We had a couple of relaxing days in Irkutsk at the end of last week There's not a lot to do there when you can't afford to go into museums etc. but we ate lots of cheap meaty dumplings from the market and the weather wasn't to cold so we were able to wander around. The city still has loads of Siberian wooden houses so it loks pretty.

The train to Ulan Bator took about 32 hours- 2 nights and a day. Our carriage and compartment were a million times better than on the shabby old train we took accross Russia. The compartment was spacious and we only had one companion- a young girl from UB who didn't speak any English and was really shy so wouldn't play with the phrasebook with us (long live Uncle Vernon).

We were in the back-carriage of the train which was amazing because we could go to the end and look out the window at the traintracks. The landscape was fantastic and varied. Loads of frozen lakes and rivers, snowy mountains etc and hardly any settlements. The sky is completely blue for something like 250 days a year in Mongolia so it's always sunny and beautiful.

Crossing the boarder took over 8 hours. It was pretty scary on the Russian side as we had only registered our visas in one city when you're supposed to do it in every city you stay in...and we didn't get a customs form on the way in...but of couse it turned out fine. On the Mongloian side there was just lots of faff as the engine was changed to a Mongolian one or something.

Anyway we made it to a very central hostel in UB and we're paying $6 per night per bed! Hurrah! It's no Vietnam but it feels pretty good after Russia! And this is by far the best hostel we've stayed in. We've had our dorms pretty much to ourselves so far but this place is busier.

So we've already been in UB for a couple of days now. But i think I'll write about that in another entry next week because we're going to be here for ages. I have to go now because we're going to a quiz at an expat's pub tonight!

Tommorrw we're heading off on a big trip around Mongolia (west and south of UB) with a driver and guide and 2 guys we met in Irkutsk that have joined us here. Guess what? They're from Sheffield! We'll tell you all about it when we get back in 9 days. No shower for 9 days!

Enjoy your 'cold' spell,

Love us x x x x x

P.S. No photos today- it won't work.
P.P.S. Anonymous commenter- show yourself!!!

---

Comments

[bex]

LAYERS
wow. i barely know where Mongolia is, how shameful. If i had to come and find you i literally wouldn't know where to start! enjoy the trip. make sure the four of you spread the news of the steel city to all you meet. xxx

[Ruth totterdell]

Top geographer
Hi Charlie, Your blogs are amazing! I was really interested in the Lake Biakal bit. I must get a map of the tectonic plates out! Well done on getting so far. It all sounds so cold, I am sure there are better times of year to visit. What are the hours of darkness like? Not sure of your latitude the nice map that goes with the blog does not have lat and long on! I am sure you can write a good article for Jane's magazine from the blogs so far. All is good here in Sheffield. We are a bit cold! Anna is back from Uni next weekend. She has had a good term. Look forward to your next news on what Mongolia is like. Take care. Love Ruth XX

[Amy]

so cool
Love reading about Mongolia.....I live in Oklahoma, and I'm sitting in my work cubical. Keep the blogs coming, and photos! I'm trying to go this summer for the Naddam festival.....do you think it would be safe for a girl to take the train from China to Russia on her own? I've backpacked a lot by myself, but never Asia. Cheers!

[tristanandcharlie]

hi amy, i think being in mongolia for the festival would be amazing! not sure on the UB-China train coz we haven't done it yet but i'm sure the russian bit would be fine on your own. we were in kupe class all the time and you can lock the door. the russians were really nice and looked afer us on the train. if you end up in a compartment with funny people i think you can request to be moved (by the carriage attendent). good luck!

[tristanandcharlie]

hi ruth, glad you like the geography bit of my blog! darkness hours aren't too bad here (we're quite a bit further south than home)- it's not completely dark til about 7 or so and Ulan Bator's safe so being out after dark is fine. have a really good christmas! lots of love charlie x x x

[Jessica]

driving trip of mongolia
Hi! My husband and I are looking into going to mongolia in 09 and I was wondering how you found the driver/guide to take you on the trip across the country? did you meet them once you got to UB? any tips would be appreciated! have a happy new year!

[tristanandcharlie]

Mongolia
Hi Jessica, we stayed at the Golden Gobi guesthouse in UB, it's a brilliant hostel (it's in the LP). We arranged the trip with them- they have loads of drivers and guides. You tell them what you want to see and they organise a great trip! It's really easy aand you can do it when you get there. It was low season when we went so we didn't have to arrange anything in advance but it might be a good idea to email ahead if you're going in summer and see what they say. My tip is take wet wipes!