Best of Borneo

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We arrived in Brunei at around 6pm, straight in to the stifling heat (around 30) and very humid, not knowing what to expect from this little sovereign state. We were soon pleasantly surprised.

No hassle at all at the border, as the British passports worked there charm. Unlike many other Asian country's the locals were extremely helpful and courteous WITHOUT expecting a tip, very refreshing indeed!

We checked in to our hotel, the aptly named 'Hotel Brunei', in the center of the city's CBD, very helpful staff and a very tidy room for the price, we were off to a good start!

Off to an early one the next day in Brunei Darussalem. After a substantial breakfast (all layed on as part of the price at the hotel) we wandered in to town, through all the local food markets and past the Royal Regalia building (very impressive) and then on to the 'Omar Ali Saffuddin' mosque, looking over a blue lagoon, an incredible building, both inside and out.
Once done at the mosque we had the task of deciding what to do and where to go from Brunei, as we had literally no plans or any real idea what Borneo had to offer. After much indecision, we decided to go to Kota Kinabulu, in Malaysia, via the tropical island of Labuan.
On route to finding a bus to the ferry terminal, we thought that we should see a bit more of the city while we had the chance ,so for the very reasonable price of 20BND (around 1pound 50 each) we went for an impressive water taxi ride through the water village of over 30,000 people, all living in houses built on stilts on the edge of the 'Sungai Kedyan' river. Not only houses, but 3 fire stations, 4 schools and a police station all suspended over the river on the edge of the city. We then headed onward up the river in search of the unusual 'Proboscis monkey' (endemic to Borneo). Very cool!
We then made our way to the bus terminal for the first part of our trip to Lebuan. Though the bus ride was delayed for more than 2 hours, we met a guide named Danny who worked for the Lonely Planet, and a couple from New Zealand, who all provided a great deal of helpful information and ideas for the next part of our Borneoan adventure.

A short bus trip took us to the ferry terminal in ' Bandar Seri Bagwan' where we continued, on the most unusual, plane shaped boat which took us the rest of the way to Labuan island (Malaysia). Our intention now was to spend the next week or so in the 'Sabah' region of Malaysian Borneo.

We checked in to the AVK hostel. Very cheap with free internet and breakfast, however the showers were nothing more than a luke warm trickle.... i guess it was only a matter of time!
After heading out for a cheap feed we met up with Dave, a fellow traveler, and the first one we had seen since our arrival in Borneo. We settled in to a night of casual drinking and story swapping, it was good to be back on the road!

Time now to hit the ferry again for a short ride back to the mainland, and our next destination of Kota Kinabalu (KK) with the promise of beaches and Orangutans! Choice!

We soon checked in to the cheapest accommodation we could find. A nice little hostel called the North Borneo cabin. After just a quick trip in to the town, for a much needed feed, we headed home for an early night. But not before making the rash purchase of 5 international flights through Air Asia, including a 8 day stay in the Philippians and a 9 day trip in Bali to end our Asian adventure.

The next day was spent exploring the various fish and handicraft markets this little coastal city had to offer. Though regular trips back to the air conditioned luxury of the hostel were needed, as the temperature was well over 30 with an 85% humidity to match!
We closed the night out with a few beers and an incredible Japanese casserole in a near by eatery, then booked a 3 day 2 night jungle safari in Kota Kinabatangen on the east side of Northern Sabah


A relatively uncomfortable, yet incredibly scenic 6 hour coach ride took us to our destination, a small coffee shop on the side of a dusty rural track in Medan Selera, on the edge of Kinabatangen. We waited there for our connection to the lodge, hot, sweaty but exited about the trip ahead.
Our transfer included a half hour off road van and a short stint on a boat. Once checked in we pretty much went straight out on a river cruise.
Whilst meandering down the 'Kinabatangen river' we were lucky enough to see the main event straight away. A couple of male Orangutans near to the rivers edge. As well as that we saw monitor lizards, proboscis monkeys, long and pig tailed macaques, serpent eagles, herons, turns, bizzers, and many other jungle flora and fauna. Considering we weren't expecting to see Orangutans or half of the other wildlife, we got off the boat feeling pretty happy.

After a good dinner (where unfortunately i was victim to a few hundred mosquito and sand fly bites) we headed out on a night time trek through the jungle, in search of whatever our hyperactive, fount of knowledge of a guide could find us! Just a few minutes in, we had seen sleeping serpent eagles, tree frogs, scorpions a Malaysian brown snake and a black backed kingfisher. Our many finds teamed together with the edgy, exiting atmosphere of the jungle at night left us feeling like we had had a pretty successful first day on the Kinabatangen safari.


The next day was an early start (5.30am !) It began with another river cruise, a nice relaxing and scenic way to spend the morning, floating down the river in search of the illusive 'Borneo Pygmy elephant' . Unfortunately we didn't find the Pygmy's ( though we did find their tracks) but we did spot many more macaques, proboscis monkeys, another monitor lizard, kites and storks. Not a bad start to day 2!

After a big breakfast we headed out on a 3 hour jungle trek to the Ox Bow lake. The walk was predictably hot and sweaty, following the elephant trail left the night before. We didn't see much in the way of wildlife on route to the lake, but once there we did some fishing and took a much needed break to appreciate the tranquility of this vast lake in the center of a jungle. The way back was much like the way there, fascinating but our attempts to find the elephants were in vain. Unfortunately in our guides enthusiasm to find the elephants he managed to get us lost in the jungle. A lot of fruitless wandering followed, until we finally found our way back to the river, on which the lodge was based, though a kilometer or two further up stream! The guide finally got in touch with base camp and they sent a 'rescue raft'. All very entertaining , but the lunch they put on when we eventually got home was very well received indeed!

After killing time for a couple of hours and a very tame kayak trip (where me and mills just went around in circles), it was time for our penultimate boat cruise and our last chance to see the 'pygmy elephants'. We edged up the river for about an hour trying to gather intelligence on their whereabouts. After waiting in a a few unsuccessful spots we decided to call it a day, all feeling a little robbed by the whole experience. Then, just as we turned the boat around, we struck gold! A whole heard came blundering through the trees and in to view, we couldn't believe our luck!
We went to various vantage points to watch them take mud baths and plough there way through literally tons of 'elephant grass' all taking as many photos/videos as possible whilst still appreciating the awe of the whole spectacle.
We stayed there for about an hour when it was time to head home all feeling a hell of a lot happier than a few hours ago.
About 15 minutes from our camp we noticed some ominous, sinister looking storm clouds. Within seconds we were caught in the middle of the most brutal, dramatic tropical storm i have ever experienced. Monsoon level rain together with blinding fork lightning, and truly terrifying thunder! It was just then it dawned on us that being out in the middle of an exposed river, in a small metal boat wasn't the ideal placement during an electrical storm of this magnitude. The last few minuets, carefully guiding ourselves home through the driving we rain, were tense to say the least. We made it back to the mainland after what seemed like an eternity, dashed for cover and rode the storm out by torchlight in the lodges communal area.
It was an amazing last night, full of everything we could have hoped for. The otherwise fairly tame trip, had rapidly become one of the best experiences since leaving the UK 14 months ago.

The next day we went on a short, uneventful boat cruise, (no one minded though after the previous nights drama) then we transferred back to Sandakan just in time for a connecting bus back to KK.

After a much needed shower and dinner we decided that, though the trip had been a total success in terms of wildlife and jungle time, we were well overdue for a night out. So we went to the supermarket to buy in some cheap 'piss' for some pre-going out drinks. We went for economy and ended up buying a liter of Chinese cooking wine for just 2 pounds 50! and 50% proof!.....it was not nice!

The receptionist from our hostel decided to take us out for the night and show us the nightlife most travelers don't see in KK. Our fist stop was 'Jugs' an extremely posh (despite the name) wine bar and night club. Very expensive, but with the cooking wine inside us we didn't need much to drink so we danced and mingled with the locals before heading to one of of the best clubs i have ever been to, 'Razz-ma-tazz'. It had valet parking and escort from the car park and once inside it was full of hard partying locals! About an hour or so in a band came on and treated us to a bizarre but brilliant session of punk covers of famous pop tunes, including Britney and Lady Gaga! Wicked fun, and a really cool way to see the best of the nightlife KK had to offer.

The next day was almost inevitably spent doing next to nothing, however on Monday, our last day in Malaysia, we decided to take a short ferry ride out to the tropical national park of Manukan island. A beautiful island and some amazing tropical fish in abundance. A top way to end our time in Borneo.

Next stop the Philippians, cant wait!

xxx

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[Ahmed Adan]

MASHAALAH!!
Maashalah best mosque;....ALLAHU AKBAR