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Published: February 28th 2009
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NOTE: I know it has been over a month since my last entry, but when last I wanted to write the internet became elusive, and then I spent the last 18 days on an island with no internet at all. I'm going to have 2 separate entries, and I've added pictures to the last few entries that previously had none, so check it out.
Overall, Borneo was a bit of a let down. Normally, I refrain from forming any expectation or am just plain ignorant, but it is hard not to imagine adventure and wild things when you hear "Borneo." It was more than a challenge to find wild without comforts (which translates to pay a lot of money and we'll take care of everything for you). I was traveling with a guy I met in Vietnam (he, being a survival skills instructor, was much more prepared for roughing it than myself) who wanted to setup his tarp and hammock/tent in the jungle, and do some hiking/climbing. We both thought this would be easy enough, and that our only obstacle might be the jungle and its weather.
From Kota Kinabalu, we headed to Kinabalu Park, where we wanted to
climb Mt. Kinabalu, 14,435 ft (I'll try and keep the Kinabalus to a minimum). Apparently it is required that you have a guide, purchase insurance, and reserve a room at some hotel on the mountain, as it takes 2 days so you can be on top at sunrise. We accepted these conditions, but were greatly put off by the mandatory purchase of buffet meals (a staggering 50 ringgit, or $15 each, when you can normally eat for under a dollar and we'd already bought noodles and snacks to prepare our own meals). We tried numerous times to work around this. We were told there was another cabin, that researchers use and if there is space others can stay there. Since it was Chinese New Year, the head ranger was not there, but we got his number from a board and claimed we were doing recon for the survival skills company Jim worked for, but they said the cabin was full. Then we decided we'd go up and return in one long day, but apparently you need to have an interview with the ranger (again, he was off for holiday). Neither one of us could justify paying about $100 each to
climb a mountain of relatively little significance. Especially in a country where $100 goes a long ways. Besides, we've both been atop mountains of the same size and seen more spectacular views without any of the hassle, and the weather wasn't particular conducive to clear views as far as the Phillipines.
Instead we did some hiking and visited the botanical garden. Not too many flowers, but we did see some pitcher plants and the world's smallest orchid (oh my!). We also opted to go to some nearby hot springs the next day...certainly not the nicest operation, but we had fun with it and there was a canopy walk and other hikes around. On the way there, our driver promised us we'd see a rafflesia (the world's largest flower). We arrived at a small shack with an old man charging ~$5 bucks to walk in and see it. The 3 others we were with went for it, but Jim and myself again refused to pay. Our stubbornness was not in vain, as the next morning we walked across the street from our guesthouse and saw our own rafflesia for free.
We then headed to Sandakan, where we made plans
to spend 2 nights on the Kinabatangan River. We stopped at an orangutan rehabilitation center on the way, though we missed the scheduled feeding time...luck was not on our side. We did get to see one female that hung around, but it still wasn't much different than a zoo experience. The Kinabatangan offered a lot of wildlife spotting, but the high concentration is because all of the surrounding forest has been cut to make room for enormous palm plantations that has forced these animals within a thin strip of jungle along the river. We did see a large male orangutan, some silver langurs, loads of proboscis monkeys and macaques, monitor lizards, various hornbills, kingfishers, eagles, and storks. And the second day there, a guy we had met in KK, along with 2 girls we met in Sandakan arrived, so we extended our stay one more night.
After our time in the jungle, we headed to Semporna, where we planned to do some diving. This place is known for a large limestone seamount that teems with pelagics, but there is a limit per day on divers, so reservations are a must. The British girls we were with came the next day, and Lizzie joined Jim and me for 3 dives at nearby Mabul Island. It had been nearly 5 years since I'd been diving, and a little while for them as well, so we all did a quick refresher. It all came back rather quickly, and we were rewarded with numerous green turtles, a sea snake, some ornate ghost pipefish, several cuttlefish, eels, and lion fish. I was very glad to get back on a reef with a regulator in my mouth.
The next day I parted from the rest and made my way to Tawau, where I needed to get a visa for Indonesia and cross into Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo).
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