Diving and Kuala Lumpur

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From Sakau to Semporna was uneventful, only 3 minibuses and just a bit of roadside waiting. The only attraction in Semporna is the diving; nestled off their coast they have dozens of little islands with beautiful reefs, and steep drop offs, ideal for marine life and coral gardens. The town itself is a complete dump. (See the picture). I ended up staying uptown, and out of laziness didn’t move down to the docks area, which would have been a much more convenient and nicer place to stay.

Once there I started looking into the diving and costs. The main attraction is Paula Sipadan, a small island approx 30 km offshore, it is now a protected park that only allows 120 visitors a day, whether they be diving, snorkeling, or simply a guide or the boat driver. This island is regarded as one of the best dive sites in the world, a fact that had been confirmed by many other travelers. I had been well informed that you have to book a permit a week or so in advance, but again due to laziness, (and not having the correct number), I choose to simply arrive, and assumed all would work out.

I made my way to the first dive shop, Scuba Junkies, one of the better know shops in Semporna, and inquired abut diving Sipadan Island. They explained to me that the earliest I could go was a week and a half away, but that there was many other dive locations, some of which they considered to be better. Alright, my bad, I try a fast one, I tell them that I would book a five day package to the other dive sites as long as they could ensure one of those days I could dive at Sipadan. The guy can’t promise me, he says, “He’d do his best”. Well look buddy; if I’m spending 1400RM here the least you could do is guarantee me a spot. I get offered a free shirt. So within a few minutes I’m at the next dive shop inquiring about the same thing. Again, they’re useless. I do understand that this is completely my fault, however in South East Asia I’m also used to a little bit of money fixing the problem. I had planned on doing a couple of day’s worth of diving, and I didn’t think that I was being unreasonable in expecting a business to throw some perks my way, ie. The permit for Sipadan.

I ended up checking a few more shops and was becoming very discouraged, and at this point I’m just trying to remember who had the lowest prices. Staying in Semporna for a week and a half, being the hole it is wasn’t an option. I check the last dive shop that I had missed on the way back to my hotel. It was fittingly called Sipadan Divers. I enquired about Sipadan Island, and right away the guy/girl (I still don’t know?) behind the counter tells me that if I book a three-day dive package with them, they’ll guarantee me one of the days to be at Sipadan. OK that’s more like it, with my assumptions about South East Asia restored I ask a few more questions about the other dive locations, their equipment, boat ect. Turns out they are the cheapest place, and the most accommodating. Perfect.

I’m just guessing but I believe this dive shop wasn’t quite as busy as the others, because they had local dive instructors and local dive masters rather than expats, and some travelers can be picky with such things. Actually I would think a local guide would be more knowledgeable about the dive sites as they had been there 10 years, and most western dive masters only shorts times, whilst working and traveling.

The next morning we gear up and head out to Sembaun Island, and do three fun dives there. On the way over it’s hard not to notice how much trash, and plastic is floating out in the ocean, I assume it is coming from Semporna, large barges, and maybe some of the floating villages. Its absolutely heart wrenching to see this kind of pollution in the ocean, just floating about. We arrive at the small island where we are going to dive, and the island itself was paradise, however it had the same sort of trash problem, I was seeing on the way over. During my first dive I notice that my BCD is leaking, this is NOT GOOD. This is what helps you float should you need to get to the surface. And were not talking just a little, I was constantly refilling it to maintain my buoyancy. Other than that my dive was mediocre, I had seen better on the Gillie islands off of Lombok.

In-between dives I explain the BCD problem to my dive master, whom blows it off, as you’ll be fine. This is why some tourist prefers western guides. However realistically I would be fine, as the remaining dives won’t be as deep or for as long. So I empty the water out of my BCD and make due for the rest of the day. Once back at the dive shop, I insist on exchanging it for a different BCD for the next two days. (They promptly hung it backup for the next person to use)

The second day diving was much better; we had gone to an island called Mabul, with lots of fish, and turtles. One of my favorite dives was under an old oilrig converted into a luxury resort. I saw tons of fish that I had never seen before so that was exiting. Also on the second day I was partnered up with an older guy from Holland who was very knowledgeable and relaxed. We ended up hanging for a couple of beers and supper over the next few days. This was starting to become weird always hanging with guys over 50, but he was very funny.

The last day we got to go to Sipadan, which I had been greatly anticipating. During the boat ride over, as it is quite far from shore, I was propped up on the edge of the boat, hanging on gently with my inside arm on a rail, had a smoke in the other, and facing backwards watching the wake. (Honestly I was pretending I was wakeboarding and trying to imagine how much air you could get, as it was a twin-engine boat with a big wake) Out of nowhere the boat slams sideways, I watch everyone on the opposite side fly across the boat and land in the laps of others, luckily my grip had tightened and my body swung outside the boat, and I kept holding on, I was soaked from the waist down, but managed to stay on the boat. Luckily the boat captain had reacted quickly and turned everything off. It turns out that we hit a 2X4 chunk of wood, and it had logged into just the left engine, thus allowing the right engine to whip the boat sideways. After a lot of banging, a little swearing and a pry bar, the wood was dislodged and we were back on our way. One girl in the back mentions that she couldn’t believe I was able to hang on, as I was looking so relaxed. I played it cool, “this isn’t my first boat ride”, I said jokingly.

Once at Sipadan, the diving was everything I had expected and well worth the wait. The dives were all along the edge of the reef where a limestone wall falls 600M into sheer darkness. The currents pull you nicely along while seeing dozens of sea turtles, some bigger than me. I also saw a lot of sharks, triggerfish (like the one was attacked my) stingrays, barracuda, parrot fish ect. I was happy that I did the Sipadan dives last as it would be hard to the others afterwards.

After my three-day, nine dive experience, I take a day to relax, and then catch a bus to Tawau, where I fly over to Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital on the peninsular part. At the luggage carousel in KL I meet two girls, whom are debating where to go and how to get there, as I have already been in KL before I tell them that I bought the 9RM bus ticket into town, at the counter (I point to it) and that we have to be quick as the bus leaves in 10 minutes, and we don’t have our luggage yet. Its about an hour drive into KL from the airport, so a taxi would be expensive, these girls are flipping threw their guide book, (oh I don’t know, oh I don’t know) Alright there’s my bag, good luck I say, and head straight out the door to get my bus. Just as I get there, the bus closes the door behind me, and waits in a cue to pull out. It’s almost completely empty so I get the back 5 seats to myself and lay down, a very Trent type move. Just as we are pulling away, I look out the window to see these two girls chasing the bus. I think, do I tell the driver to stop, (he probably doesn’t speak English, I’m all the way at the back) NOPE, my head hits the seat and I go to sleep, silly girls should have listened in the first place. My conscious hassles me for a few fleeting minutes as were driving away. (Well it is 11:00 at night) I wake up in KL, and check myself into a hostel around midnight. By now I don’t even remember those two girls.

The next day I just relaxed and tried to determine what to do, and I run into the girls in China town, they recognize me, and come over to talk. I quickly say, how did you make out yesterday, and they tell me about how they got the bus tickets but then the bus wouldn’t stop, and how they couldn’t get a refund and ended up taking a taxi for another 100RM (luckily they didn’t see me on it). I still didn’t feel bad, because I had told them exactly what they needed to do, and they already had their bags, so they could have been on the bus before me.

Later in the day I met a guy named Grant, from Scotland who had been traveling for two years, mostly in Australia. We had a few beers together in Reggie bar and ended up staying till close. Honestly the story doesn’t get much different over the next few days. Finally a couple of days later we decide to do something with our time, and go to the Batu Caves, they weren’t that great. After a few days we had become regulars at the Reggie bar, and a few locals told us of a great place to spend a day called Sunway Lagoon.

Well Sunway Lagoon was one of the coolest places I’ve been, especially as far as big cities go. I would recommend anyone killing a few days in KL to go. Sunway Lagoon is basically a huge playground; inside they have the Water Park, which has, wave pools, waterslides, and tube rides. They also have an amusement park containing rollercosters, upside down boats, and a few other rides. But it gets better; they also have Extreme Park, where there is paintball, ATV riding, zip lines, and the reverse bungee. But that’s not it …. There is also a zoo with Tigers, and a bunch of other animals. And lastly they have a scream park, which I have no idea what’s inside. The pass for the entire day is 90RM, which includes everything, or you can buy separate passes for each area. We only bought the Amusement and Water Park pass, but I wish I had gotten the Extreme Park as well. The water park was very impressive, (yes better than WEM) the wave pool pounds out waves so big guys are surfing!!
Also they imported sand so that you get a real beach feel. I can’t say how impressed I was, the music playing all days is Dance music, and rock and roll, so everyone’s having a great time all day. Because this is not in the guidebooks, we were practically the only westerners there, which make it feel more authentic. It was a great way to spend my last day in KL.

The following day I flew to Cambodia.

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Photos

Waterfront
I want a different boat please.

Our dive boat
Yes this is the one I almost launched out of.

Comments

[Darlene]

Sunway Lagoon
This place looks HUGE - it wouldn't be possible to see the whole park in 1 day would it?? Even though they don't advertise in guidebooks, was the park still pretty full? Take care and look forward to reading about your adventures. PS: Grandma B was over the other day and was reading some of your blogs. I'm sure she enjoyed reading what you are up to :) Darlene B.