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Published: March 20th 2009
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Sukau Greenview B&B
Did I mention it was rainy season? Day 5
Saturday, January 17, we groggily and grumpily went down to the front desk to checkout and meet Nazim, the van driver that would take us to Sukau. Eric the KIAC and GAG were also busy packing up and getting ready to leave. Eric offered Cara and I some fruit near the front desk. I flatly refused for the both of us. He seemed dismayed at my less than cordial response and I realized that he either didn’t know I was from the room next door or didn’t remember anything from the previous night. It was then that I resolved to take the low road and give him the stink eye at every possible opportunity. We met Nazim by the corner KFC (they really are everywhere in Asia) and we wound our way through the crowded streets and markets to where his van was parked. There was already another couple sitting in the van. Their gear was already taking up much of the third row leaving what appeared to be room enough for only Kim, Cara, and I. As we situated ourselves, Nazim informed us that we were waiting for two more. Oh, no. Cara, Kim, and I looked
Meow
This little male kitten's name was Meow. He and another older female lived there. at each other in silent disappointment. Eric the KIAC and GAG popped cheerfully into the van and we repositioned ourselves and our packs so that they had to sit in the back row with the bulk of the gear. Stink eye accomplished (more than once). Thank goodness for my beloved iPod. Otherwise, the two hour van ride with those two jackasses would have been nearly unbearable. I did listen to their conversation a couple of time (if it can be called that, only the KIAC was talking) and wasn’t too terribly surprised to hear that it was ‘get to know you’ time. They had just hooked up a few days before.
We arrived at the Sukau Greenview Bed and Breakfast at one o’clock and all breathed a sigh of relief when the van took the two annoyances away to another establishment. Jamal, a muslim in his late fifties and the owner/operator, warmly greeted us and Sugi, the guide, sat with us on the patio to discuss our stay there and what we hoped to do. After our itinerary was settled, we took a much needed nap. It was pouring outside creating the perfect atmosphere for an afternoon snooze. When
A rare experience
During our cruise, a rare Rochester Monkey not only jumped into our boat, but donned a life vest and imitated our behavior. Sugi said that almost never happens. we awoke the rain had subsided and we walked over to the open air dining room for a late lunch. The food was great: fresh fish with carrots and onions, fried chicken, and cucumbers. I left the fried chicken for Kim and Cara, who don’t always like local fare but I wasn’t complaining. The fish was fantastic! When we were done eating we boarded a little boat with Sugi, our guide, and a young man who would be our boat captain during our stay. For our first cruise we stayed on the Kinabatangan River. Words cannot describe how completely awesome it was to be on the river and see (and hear) so much wildlife. We saw dozens of proboscis monkeys (the species the area is well know for), grey snub nosed monkeys, long tailed macaques (much smaller and cuter than their vicious pig tailed cousins), and we saw a wild orangutan! Sugi said it was rare to see one and we were very lucky to catch a glimpse. Unfortunately, it was too far away to snap a picture of it. We also saw hornbills, storks, kingfishers, a monitor lizard, and endless natural scenery. It was so refreshing to be in
a place where the tallest things are the trees. No high-rises, no crowded streets belching toxins into the air, no horns, no artificial lights. Just nature. Sugi was amazing. He knew everything about everything AND was able to tell us all about it effortlessly in English. No question went unanswered. During our cruise we saw other boats from other resorts and even spotted Eric the KIAC and GAG along with five or six other guests from their B&B. So *raspberry* on them. We had our own private boat. Stink Eye accomplished though possibly not perceived. We were a fair distance away. After two hours of gawking at the majesty of Malaysian riparian wildlife my butt was totally numb but I didn’t care. Sukau was too cool. We returned just in time for a lovely buffet dinner of more fish (this time with tomatoes), curried chicken, carrots, rice, and fresh guava. We were joined at dinner by the two other guests: A British Skeezy G in his mid to late sixties and his Filipino girlfriend who could not have been more than 25. Mercifully they sat at a different table. While we were still eating, Skeezy G took off his shirt
Proboscis Alpha Male
Those older males were hard to catch on camera. and his young plaything entertained herself by photographing his armpits and nipples. *sigh* Those two aside, I went to bed that night with only one thought: I heart Sukau.
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