Pulau Labuan (5-7 Mar 13)

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After the week-long detour eastwards to check out the flora and fauna of the Sabahan heartlands, it was time to back-trek and resume my journey southwestwards along the northern coast of Borneo. And so it was a day-long bus ride for another quick overnighter back at KK, before a 3h ferry to the nearby island called Pulau Labuan, a transit point between Sabah and Brunei.

Still part of Malaysia, and just off the state of Sabah, but Pulau Labuan doesn't actually belong to the state. Like the capital Kuala Lumpur, Labuan has the special status as a Federal Territory, diirectly governed by the central government. The reason for this, I'm not so sure, but I think it partially has to do with history, and partially with its position as an international offshore financial centre. In any case, Labuan is a bit of an oddball. Not quite Malaysia, not quite Philippines, not quite Brunei (I think), but being mostly composed of residents from these places, and then some. The main town itself is somewhat developed, though still quiet, especially come evenings, while the rest of the island seems like a big, low-key holiday beach resort. Even though I arrived on the day of the country's general election, the atmosphere seemed to be one of apathy, with just a scattering of people seated at the open-air kopi tiams (coffee shops), watching the results on TV, almost with a measure of disinterest.
For those who know, Labuan reminds me of Changi Village in my hometown of Singapore. Clean, safe, organised, laidback, and definitely evoking a sense of removal from the action.
That's not to say Labuan is insignificant though. A quick scan towards the horizon over the waters surrounding the port area, and you see numerous tankers, and industrial rig-like structures. Certainly its proximity to oil-rich Brunei is not lost on the authorities. And it boasts a large "financial park", though this might be a somewhat misleading term. There were certainly at least a few banks within, but otherwise seemed to be a rather odd mish-mash of random (and not particularly well-patronised) shops.
A duty-free zone, but with otherwise higher prices all-round than Sabah, Labuan also has its seedy side, as seems to be the case with all "special status" cities. Perhaps owing again to proximity to deeply religious (and sterile?) Brunei, expatriates based there flock here for the many girlie bars, staffed mostly by Filipino ladies in search of a better life. But it's no Manila, and certainly no Angeles.

Stayed at Melati Inn.

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Photos

The Chimney
Or at least that's what they call this. Was it really some sort of ventilator for the nearby coalmines? Or lighthouse? Apparently to date it remains a mystery why it was built.

Financial Park
Or at least that's what it's officially called. A couple of banks inside for sure, but otherwise a rather strange mish-mash assortment of random shops.

Labuan Bird Park
Actually pretty good.

Black Swan
Yes it really does exist. Better break out those deep out-of-the-money put options for those six-sigma events.

Marine Museum
And yes another whale skeleton, in the background.

Labuan Clock Tower
And believe it or not, that's the lawn bowling arena in the background.