Penang, Malaysia

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We used up yet more of our "credit" and took another ship's tour. Once aboard the coach our first stop was Khoo Kongsi Chinese Clan House in Georgetown. It was pouring with rain so we all huddled inside while our guide explained that the Chinese immigrants who came to Penang in the 18th and 19th centuries developed “Clans” based on where they were from in China. The larger of these clans felt the need to build “Clanhouses” for meetings and gatherings, as well as worshiping their ancestors Khoo Kongsi is without a doubt the grandest of all of the clan houses in the city, situated in a very old part of Georgetown. The Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi clan, as well as its sub-clans, were groups of Chinese immigrants in Penang whose ancestry traces back to a village named Sin Aun in the Hokkien province (now Fujian). There were actually a few Khoo clansman already on the island of Penang before the British arrived in 1786, which most likely came here from other Straits settlements (Singapore, Malacca). This makes them some of the very first Chinese immigrants in Penang. Over the years, the Khoo Kongsi clan grew in numbers reaching over 100. With these large numbers, the clan decided that they needed a Clanhouse for members to gather and worship their ancestors, but it wasn’t until 1850 that they were able to buy a property and convert the building into their Clanhouse.

This gave us the first insight into the multi-cultural aspects of Malaysia, where Malays, Chinese, Indians and others seemingly continue to live side by side in harmony. This building was thoroughly impressive, even in the pouring rain! We then motored to a hotel for lunch; our second spicy meal in 2 days - quite hot this one with additional optional chillies - where most folk took advantage of the bland European option.

We continued by coach to Batu Ferringhi, the main beach area for Penang, past all the 5 star hotels, developed for the most part in style and good order. Not a place for the package tourist but, nevertheless, not particularly expensive. Quite flash 3 bed villas can be had for M$1 million - about £150k. We then passed the Mutiara hotel where David stayed when working in Penang 15 years ago. It has been acquired as an Inter-Continental, much to his disapproval, and is closed for 2 years for renovation. Rather disappointing given the build-up he gave it (best hotel I've ever stayed in) as he was hoping to take some photos for Lucy who was serenaded nightly by a Chines violinist in the ground floor restaurant where we ate.

Next to the butterfly farm which D thinks is probably amongst the best in the world but M was completely unmoved. Lots of photos of butterflies and assorted animals (not attached) and an excellent museum/shop at the end with many Asian genuine artefacts from Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. We then returned by the coast road, around Georgetown to the highlight of Penang (or so the blurb says), the Kek Lok Si Buddhist temple, built in a number of different architectural styles - and still ongoing. This is approached by a very steep walk up 500 or so steps past a street market and a pond of hundreds of turtles. The final climb is assisted by a sort of ski-resort funicular built by the Italians. We took the obligatory snaps at the top, including one of Georgetown. On our return we haggled for 3 tee shirts and took the coach back to the pier.

We wandered back into town and accidentally came across little India (Lubakh Pasar) and all the preparations for Diwali (next day), a really interesting experience, but also learned that many of the Indian immigrants from yesteryear were/are also Moslem. However, that wasn't going to get in the way of what may be becoming a bit of a secular 'Christmas' for those originating in the sub-continent. On to the flash Department store for paints and arty supplies and 'Giant' (slogan - the store where Malaysians shop) for other supplies. We came back at dusk and took a night-time photo of the old clock tower and Downing Street, Penang.

Finally, a very happy birthday for Sunday 11 November for James. Have a wonderful 11th birthday son - with lots of love.

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