The Pearl Regains its Lustre


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Asia » Malaysia » Penang » George Town
October 24th 2011
Published: October 26th 2011
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The Blue MansionThe Blue MansionThe Blue Mansion

This 38 room, 4 courtyard mansion was the home of Cheong Fatt Tze, a rags-to-riches millionaire who at the beginning of the 20th century was known as 'the Chinese Rockefeller". The Lonely Planet has just included it on its list of 'The Ten Most Beautiful Mansions of the World'.
The island of Penang was long known as "Pearl of the Orient". Founded in 1786 by Francis Light (father of William, who founded Adelaide), it was a trading post for the British East India Company and was one of the three Straits Settlements, along with Malacca and Singapore.

We had spent three happy years working and living there in the 1970's. At that time the island and its capital, Georgetown, was showing its age and looking a little run down - the pearl was losing its lustre.

On this short five day visit we saw a different Penang. This island, along with the rest of Malaysia, is booming, but progress comes at a price. It has certainly lost its quiet provincial feel with towering condominiums and smart hotels lining many of the foreshores where formerly Malay kampongs stood.

Many of the quiet sandy beaches of Batu Ferringhi are now only accessible to the patrons of the big hotels that crowd its edges.

Where the lustre has returned, however, is in Georgetown itself. In 2008 the town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Area. This has meant that many of the old and dilapidated public buildings, shophouses, hotels
Row of Chinese shophousesRow of Chinese shophousesRow of Chinese shophouses

Shops down below, homes above.
and places of worship are either restored to their original condition or earmarked for restoration.

The focus of the restoration has been on keeping the integrity of the town for the benefit of the residents rather than creating a tourist theme park.

Making your way down the streets along the colonnaded five-foot ways that provide shelter from the tropical sun there is always something of interest to see.

It is still a cultural melting pot where dozens of languages are spoken and religions and traditions followed. Kapitan Keling Mosque, The Goddess of Mercy Taoist Temple, Little India Hindu Temple and St. George's Anglican Church represent four different religions and are situated within a few minutes of each other.

One of the highlights of Penang, for us and for most visitors, is the food. It is indeed a foodies paradise. There are restaurants specialising in food from many of the different provinces of China, many different regions of the Indian subcontinent, Indonesian, Thai, Burmese, Nepalese......you could eat your way around Asia!

Then there is the unique Nonya food, a combination of Chinese and Malay, which is a Penang specialty.

At lunchtime and in the evening
Goddess of Mercy TempleGoddess of Mercy TempleGoddess of Mercy Temple

This Taoist temple is a favourite place of worship of the many Chinese clans in Georgetown.
the streets are lined with hawker stalls. Put in your order, pull up a stool and you've got a great meal for a couple of dollars.

As the year progresses there is a neverending calendar of religious and cultural celebrations. While we were there the Indian community was gearing up for Deepavali - The Festival of Lights. This Indian equivalent of Christmas is the time for gift giving, big meals, new clothes and celebration. We strolled through the Little India quarter on a couple of nights. It had a real festive feel - crowds of people, music, lights and fireworks.

The few days we had at the historic E&O (Eastern and Oriental) Hotel, with its beautiful colonial ambience, was a fitting way to end what had been for us a nostalgic visit to this beautiful island.




Additional photos below
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Kapitan Keling MosqueKapitan Keling Mosque
Kapitan Keling Mosque

This historic mosque is noted for its unique Malay architecture which has set a standard for many others across Malaysia.
St George's Anglican ChurchSt George's Anglican Church
St George's Anglican Church

This beautiful Georgian Anglo-Indian style church was built in 1816. We sang The Messiah here one Christmas.
Chinese shopfrontsChinese shopfronts
Chinese shopfronts

The shutters are not just for decoration, they keep out the monsoon rains.
Interior - Peranakan MansionInterior - Peranakan Mansion
Interior - Peranakan Mansion

This beautifully restored mansion had typical eclectic European/Asian decoration. The English floor tiles and the ironwork from Scotland complemented the Chinese furnishings.
Marriage bedMarriage bed
Marriage bed

A white handkerchief had to be presented to the mother-in-law the next day!
Doorway to private templeDoorway to private temple
Doorway to private temple

The Peranakan mansion had its own private temple for ancesor worship.
Exterior of Peranakan MansionExterior of Peranakan Mansion
Exterior of Peranakan Mansion

Another fine example of restoration.
Five-foot wayFive-foot way
Five-foot way

Most shophouses have a colonnaded five-foot way which provides welcome shade in the tropical heat.
Blue Mansion Roof DetailBlue Mansion Roof Detail
Blue Mansion Roof Detail

Craftsmen were brought from China to design and instal the porcelain mural.
Blue Mansion Window DetailsBlue Mansion Window Details
Blue Mansion Window Details

There were 40 of these beautiful art deco windows.
Chinese checkers - Penang styleChinese checkers - Penang style
Chinese checkers - Penang style

These trishaw drivers use beer bottle tops as pieces.
Jan's favourite drinkJan's favourite drink
Jan's favourite drink

This little stall is the most famous in Malaysia for its Chendul - an unusual mixture of grated ice, coconut milk, corn, green vermicelli and palm sugar!
Satay stallSatay stall
Satay stall

Always a favourite!
Renovation under wayRenovation under way
Renovation under way

We saw many buildings being brought back to their original condition.
Deepavali celebrationsDeepavali celebrations
Deepavali celebrations

Card giving and decorations are popular at this time - just like Christmas.
Deepavali decorationsDeepavali decorations
Deepavali decorations

These intricate patterns made from coloured rice were at the entrance to many hotels and businesses.
Colonnaded shophousesColonnaded shophouses
Colonnaded shophouses

A coat of paint will bring them back to their original look.
City HallCity Hall
City Hall

This beautiful colonial building looks onto the Medan where the troops would once have paraded.


26th October 2011

We love your photos
Hi, We have enjoyed reading about your travels, but we love the photos best. You are becoming very proffessional. Keep enjoying yourselves.
26th October 2011

Travels
Anlother wonderful trip drawing to a close. We have vicariously enjoyed your travels, en route, and hopefully will have a chance to sit down & hear of your experiences & impressions in much more detail, down the track. Enjoy your remaining time in Penang, which no doubt is very sentimental, despite all the modernisation & changes x Sue & Angus
26th October 2011

ETR & JCR MTB
Lovely to read about your Penang and to see that photo of you both! We are still bright and shiny.............. Love to you both as always x x
27th October 2011

Famous Guests at E & O
Hey dont forget Margie and I lived there too, never did meet WSM there but read him! Sounds fabulous, great to see Georgetown being restored, thought at one stage when the Komplex Tunku Abdul Razak was built it was doomed! Bon voyage(s)

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