Pearl Of The Orient

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Entering Penang's Georgetown is like stepping into a different world - a world away from the Malaysia we'd come to know, that is. It's like stepping back in time to a town with a very chaotic and cramped, Chinese heart - it is the only part of Malaysia where the Chinese ethnic group is in the majority. It's really bustling and congested but that gives it a certain charm.

It also has a full-on party-fuelled atmosphere and weekends are noticeable. With a Chinese majority, alcohol is the fuel of choice and big bars and clubs are prominent - it's a long way from the Muslim way of life, experienced on the mainland.

Georgetown also has a seedy underbelly with prostitution evident on the streets and lots of seedy looking skinheads looking to make the most of the sex tourism (think Garry Glitter types). An evening lonesome stroll was like advertising yourself for the approach and proposition. In a distance of 500m I was asked if I wanted "boom-boom", if I liked "lady-boy" (of which there were a fair few - we must be getting near to Thailand!) and even a taxi driver asked if I needed an acquaintance before asking if I needed a cab! All this adds to the flavour though - it's certainly a colourful place.

Despite all Georgetown's misgivings, there are plenty of wonderful sights and historic remnants of this once power-house of the British East India Co whose hold on trade in the region was a result of British Georgetown. We didn't dislike the place on account of its frentic, full-on front - we appreciated its uniqueness, its vibrancy and its mix of cultural heritage but most of its interesting and varied architecture. It was also our last stop in Malaysia and furthermore, our last stop with Abi whose eventual departure brought a tearful farewell (check the photos).

We wanted to make the most of our Georgetown visit and spent a whole day wandering the streets - the final episode of "Tommy's walking tours". We enjoyed a last supper together (we opted for Indian food not Malay but that's not to dismiss Malay cuisine as we'd eaten that most of the time in Malaysia) and even splashed out on some vino before we said our goodbyes and Abi's bus disappeared into the night...

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Photos

The Buddhist Sign
The Chinese are here.

The Famous Eastern & Oriental Hotel
One of the famous Sarkies brothers' hotels - it's refurbishment eventually bankrupted them.

Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
Home to a powerful Nanyang industrialist and a first-class Mandarin in the Manchu government, Cheong Fatt Tze.

More Of Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
This mansion is only one of three of its kind left outside China.

Chinatown
Is that a sailor in the bottom right corner?

100 Cintra Street
Home to a nice little museum with a lovely guide who can tell everything you need to know about middle-class life here during the last couple of centuries.

Khoo Kongsi Clanhouse
Home to the clan association of the Leong San Tong (Dragon Mountain Hall) clan of Hokkien.

Cannon Square
Behind Khoo Kongsi

Syed Alatas Mansion
It was the home of Syed Mohamed Alatas, a prominent Muslim citizen of Penang. It's now the Penang museum of Islam.

Masjid Kapitan Keling
Built in the 19th century by Indian Muslim traders.

Fort Conwallis
It was built by Captain Sir Francis Light after taking possession of Penang island from the Sultan of Kedah in 1786.

Victoria Memorial Clock Tower
Funded by a local Chinese businessman (who knows why). It's 60 feet high - one foot for every year of Queen Vic's reign.

Didn't I Say It Was Tearful
So why the long face?