Tioman Island

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September trip 2007 to Malaysia

Trip built on frequent flyers so the flights are a little long winded but still - cheap too.

Left Adelaide Thursday 20th September at 8.30 am. Flight to Perth, then 2.5 hours till flight to Singapore. Arrived at 4.30 and got a taxi to city as with 2 people same as getting bus/train.

Got dropped in Little India and wandered a bit to find accommodation, surprisingly many places full. Shower, drink in backpackers and off to eat - Indian. Singapore has changed dramatically since we were here last in 1992. There is less and less old stuff and more and more high rises. Found it very expensive too, many things not so different to Australia, although some electrical is cheaper.

We were told to head to Lavender St bus station to get to Mersing so off we trot at around 7.30am, about 20min walk. When we arrived nothing open, not many buses and none mentioned Mersing. After a bit more research decided to go to Queen St station instead. Hailed a taxi eventually - they appear to be flat out and none vacant - we had no idea where Queen st was anyway so best not to walk.....

Arrive at Queen St but by now about 9am. Found buses to JB go every 10mins - dirt cheap too. Unfortunately we arrived shortly after one bus from JB to Mersing and next one not for 2 hours - which ended up like much of Malaysian time as being 3 hours.

Buses very modern these days, although driving is interesting - they are expert at overtaking on blind bends at 120km....

Arriving in Mersing around 2pm we only had to wait half an hour for the last ferry for the day (due to Ramadan). View's of islands would have been stunning if the weather was not overcast but still looked good anyway. Coming into the island, it looks so pretty and not at all how I imagined it. Very mountainous and covered in jungle. Small beaches and coves with hardly any building, just small huts etc. The speedboat was also the local ferry and hopped from one beach to another amazingly fast.
We were heading to Air Batang (ABC) and all but one beach looked unspoilt, one had unfortunately a very large ugly multi storey building that did not at all fit with its surrounding. It was the main golf spa resort for the island.

ABC was lovely, walking on the jetty the water is so clear and many fish swimming underneath. Weather wonderfully warm and although a little humid as far as we were concerned it was great after Adelaide winter weather. Wandered to one end of beach, many places closed (Ramadan), the one we had thought of staying was full but we had also decided that end of the beach was not so good, too much dead coral and not enough sand. So back we go and on further to other side of jetty. Found a little place called YP, Got hut right on front with great view of beach and water. 25RM per night (about $8), had own toilet, shower, fan and mossie net - what else do you need?

Wandered to far end of beach where there was a great bar on the beach with happy hour so we stopped there. Had a couple of drinks with some South African's when in comes a sand storm. Fun and it did not last long. Then off to dinner with the South African's, New Zealanders and Brits. Had a great time.

Next morning packed up and walked to Tekek to catch a 4x4 to Juara beach the other side of the island.

Rough road, very windy and very steep up and down over the mountains. Many backpackers walk it (7km) but we decided it was too steep and too humid to do it with backpacks.

Juara Beach just stunning, wide sandy beaches, small huts right on the beach, lovely breeze (which turned out to happen everyday as the land warmed up as a sea breeze, so this side never too hot.)
Stayed at Rainbow Chalets, owner so friendly, huts on the best spot on the beach.

For the next 4 days, swam many times during each day, did some snorkelling, walked and just enjoyed the wonderful scenery. One walk went right through deep jungle (nearly overgrown) to some rapids and swimming hole. We did not quite get there as it was getting very dark in the jungle so decided to do again another time. We also did the worst side of the 7km walk from one side to the other one morning. Trekked 3km up one side of the mountain - so very steep it was a good work out. Side trip to a small waterfall and then back for breakfast.

Food and eating habits have had to change drastically - not due to food but to Ramadan. Only time you can get food is 9am to 3pm and then 7.30pm till 10. For us early risers it meant walking, swimming etc for a couple of hours before breakfast - really appreciated it by then of course. Then having lunch at 3pm as otherwise could not get through till maybe 8.30 as by the time they open, you order and they cook it is at least that. On one occasion it was gone 10pm.......

Turtles nest on the island and a couple of hatchlings were kept in the chinese restaurant. While we were there a Singapore pop star was also making an MTV video - interesting......

First couple of nights there were thunderstorms at night but not a lot of rain (road becomes undriveable in wet). Last couple of days monsoon comes early and rain is more frequent and during the day at times. Put a stop to the snorkelling as sea to choppy - but still great for swimming. Left to go back to ABC for one night before flying out - in case of more rain, road already quite wet.

Restaurant were we are staying is only 1 metre from sea edge (over water). As we sat there we saw young and large turtles swimming, was great and we were keen to get snorkels and go out but they were not open. Supposed to open at 8.30 but by 10am still not open and then another rainstorm came through so that was the end of that. Instead walked up beach to one of the only couple of shops that sell stuff - but of course at 11am it was still shut. So off to the airport.

The airport is amazing, I have never seen such a small runway. They use Dash 7 to get up fast as each end of the runway is a sheer mountain. Pilots get one chance to land and take off only, no abort option.

Off to KL, where again have to learn another eating pattern. Nothing much opens before 11am, including eating places so not great for breakfast options - although did find a local Indian hangout that does roti etc.

Seminar starts at 9.30 and you only get 45 mins for lunch at 12.15 - then it goes till 8.30 so it is a long time between feeds.

Food is very cheap, and accommodation. Clothing not so, and electrical definitely quite a bit cheaper than Oz.. Loving the heat outside, not so the air conditioning inside (even in jeans and jumpers its' cold).

Anyway I would recommend Tioman Island to anyone, we will definitely go back there. Would love to explore some other beaches and do many more of the walks (including the whole 7km, without backpack). Still it may not be the same as they are currently building a proper road through.

Happy Travels, enjoy
Steve and Carol
www.agneswaters.com.au

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