17. 05/10 - 12/10 - Fond Farewell Asia


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October 12th 2007
Published: October 14th 2007
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The Petronas Towers
05/10/07

We arrived portside in Kuala Besut, still in one piece, although both looking rather wind-swept on the barnet front (personally I was not looking totally un-'There's Something About Mary'-esque!!). We proceeded past the throng of taxi drivers and headed for the bus terminal to check the times for our trip to Kuala Lumpur. We already had it in our minds to stay here for 1 night and head to KL early tomorrow so we could catch up on some interneting (nearly 3 quid an hour on the Islands, 75 pence an hour here), and make sure we got to KL at a reasonable time. We found the bus left at 9 tomorrow so decision made, and we headed off to find an internet cafe, and a guest house. We found both in no time, and were shocked by the attitude of the locals, which was both friendly and welcoming. Unfortunately being on the tourist trail you are generally exposed to people who are looking for your money, and consequently, it all seems a little fake and with more than a passing resembalance to male cow faeces. So, pleasantly surprised, we checked-in to our basic but clean room and jumped
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China town
on the net for a couple of hours (I could feel the tan draining from my skin with every passing second in cyber-world). We stopped for some lunch and chilled in the room for a while, before I headed back on-line to finish the blog, and Amy went for a walk around town, before she jumped on-line a little later. At about quarter to 7, the guy who ran the internet cafe, asked us if we could finish up so he could get home for dinner, errrr, ok? Turns out he was a Muslim and had been fasting during the day for Ramadan, so with dinner served at 7, he was keen to get on the road. Now i'm not a great believer in religion, but i've learn't to respect other people's differences and views, so we made like bananas, and split. As a thank you for our swift departure he bunged us a free bottle of water and let us pay what we wanted for our albino time, 'no problem nipper' (and we paid what was due, no short changing here, we're English and honest, just like Ronnie Biggs!!! Only kidding).

We went back to the room and
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China town
did some sit-ups etc before heading out for dinner at 8 but, due to the Ramadan factor, the town was like a ghost town, and we found only 1 restaurant open. We settled in for fried rice and a long wait (it seemed the world and his wife had come out for a huge feast, and got their order in before us), before being joined by Rory. Rory was.........a bit of a weapon.....travelling before starting a placement year in Melbourne as a sports psychologist. He was supposed to start 4 weeks ago but had just kept lying to his new employers so he could piss about in South East Asia. Straight away I thought he was a '..you fill in the blank..', and this was further confirmed by his 'personality', which was further fuelled by that excitable, head up your own arse, absolutely clueless about the real world, undergraduate attitude. Now i've been an undergraduate, and was probably guilty of harbouring similar views (although I would say nowhere near as ignorant), so I let it go and didn't venture as far as telling him that when you have zero knowledge of the real world, SHUT UP!!! The night finished when
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The KL Tower 276m high
he said he was popping to an internet cafe and would be back in 15. As he left I sprinted for the counter, settled the bill, and we turned in early......at 9, Rory-less and happy!!!!

06/10/07

After an early night the alarm woke us at 07:40, and due to some packing last night, we were ready to go at ten past eight. We stopped for a pancake and an iced coffee on the way, and confident that we'd be stopping for food and a rest break on the way, I grabbed a water too and properly hydrated. We jumped on the bus at 9, found our seats at the back of the bus, featuring mega leg room, and we were on our way to Kuala Lumpur. By 10:15 the iced tea and water were starting to ask some questions, and a rest break was definitely required. I reasoned that we couldn't be more than 45 minutes from a stop, and cranked up the Ipod. 2 hours later, and now in the fetal position, I was in trouble, and asked the bus driver if we could stop, ASAP. The answer I got was emphatic, and not exactly what I
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Anyone want a dog, are they pets or food????
was after, 'we stop in 1 hour'!!!!!!! With no room for manouvere, and doubled over in pain, I curled up in the back, and waited.........Luckily we only had to wait another 30 excruciating minutes, and as the bus pulled up in the rest stop, I sprinted for the loos......oh no I didn't, I had to wait for the middle-aged couple in front of us to stop pissing about with their bags. Luckily I held on and felt a wave of relief wash over me as I made the loos. Post-pee, and 2 stones lighter, food became the next issue, but being rural Malaysia, and bang in the middle of Ramadan, no-one was eating, ergo, serving food, to anyone!!!!! We did find one shop selling wares, but unfortunately Nokias and Samsungs aren't the tastiest of snacks!!!! Starving, and more than paranoid about the toilet breaks, we rationed our packet of mentoes and avoided the water. In the end we spent another 45 minutes at the rest stop waiting for the driver, and only the Mosque next door explained why, the driver was praying!!!!!!

Back on the road at 2, we reached Kuala Lumpur by 5 and were out of the
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Amy & Matt - up the KL tower
taxi and wandering around China Town shortly after looking for accomodation. We have decided to blow some cash in KL so we were looking a little more upmarket, but due to the time of day, not much was available. We had earmarked a decent place on the net but Amy had failed to jot down the name or address, which made locating it a but of an effort (failed I might add), and resulted in a 'disagreement' (apparently I had said it was too pricey therefore she saw no point in recording it, the debate goes on!!). Eventually we settled for one place which was reasonable, air-conditioned and a bit cheaper, although it did seem a bit seedy (we endeavoured to find the other place later today without our rucksacks). Our worst fears were confirmed by the price list, which showed rooms bookable by the night, or hour!!!!!! Shortly after checking-in we headed out and soaked up the sights and sounds of China Town, and some dinner. I think we've been travelling in Asia for too long now however, because every China Town looks and feels the same, which probably means that hitting Australia by the 16th will be good
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View from KL tower
timing. One thing to admire about the Chinese is their entrepreneurial spirit and ability to make a shop, out of a table, tarpaulin, and a few fake handbags!!!

After eating we eventually found the China Town II Hotel and checked out the rooms. They were clean, had satellite TV including sports, towels, hot shower and western toilet, so it was a done deal. As we went to leave we tried the door, but it didn't open!!! For some reason they have buttons on the outside which lock them, and we had managed to push it in!!! I wasn't too fussed, I had found Man United on ESPN so was sat on the bed watching the pre-match analysis, but we did need to leave at some point so phoned reception. The response wasn't exactly swift, the phone wasn't answered for a few minutes and our help, when requested, wasn't that immediate, but despite the on-set of claustrophobia, it didn't put us off the hotel. We confirmed for tomorrow and found a bar showing the Man United game, and, I am proud to admit, when Tevez put us 1 up, me and the Malaysians went mental!!!!!

07/10/07

We slept
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Merdaka Square
like babies last night and woke at 8 feeling 100%. We had a big day planned, moving hotels (no more knocking shops), visiting the KL Tower, The Golden Triangle and Medaka Square, so we were checked-out by half 8 and in the new gaffe by 9. We did have a slight ATM issue (i.e. no cash available, bit of a worry especially when your down to your last 100 Rinngits), but the hotel said we could pay later and advised us to try a few more cashpoints in the city. We stopped for noodles and rice on the way to the KL Tower, tried a few more cashpoints (Amy reckoned the UK banking system could be down for some maintenance, which satisfied me, but with every failed attempt to draw some bucks, she freaked more and more), and watched a stray dog chase a police car (as you do!!). We reached the KL Tower, ignored the free shuttle bus (assuming that it must be some kind of scam.....it wasn't), and set-off up-hill in the 35 degree heat. By the time we made it to the tower, every step was filled with regret, and our clothes, with perspiration. We took advantage
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Our indian experience a banana leaf for a plate
of the air-conditioned mall at its base and cooled off before heading up. Now a lot of people associate high places and Kuala Lumpur with the Petronas Towers, but the KL Telecommunications Tower is both taller, and has a viewing station that is 100 metres higher. Needless to say the view was amazing, and the lift which rose 276 metres in 50 seconds was pretty impressive too (we did get questioned in the lift about our heritage by an Aussie family who were surprised we were English due to our dark skin......Turkish?). With a free audio tour we got the run down on the buildings that shape Kuala Lumpur's skyline from a 276 metre high view as we looked down on everything, including the Petronas Towers.

After some building gazing we decided to head for the Golden Triangle, the city's business and shopping heartbeat. It was a fair walk, but we were not disappointed by the offices, malls and glitz on offer, it was truly golden. Designer stores rubbed shoulders with hotels such as the Ritz Carlton, and Mercedes Brabus's were the norm. We did begin to wander through the lines of mega malls but with the ATM issue
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Our indian experience
still hanging over us, and Amy freaking, we decided to bail and get it sorted. We got back to the hotel and jumped on the net, initially hoping to confirm that our accounts hadn't been emptied. This, like the ATMs, was down, although there was a message that systems were down for maintenance. Seeing cold hard evidence almost satisfied Amy (the only real satisfier was a fist-full of crisp 50 Ringgit notes which we withdrew about an hour later), but with her in a better mood we walked to Medaka Square. In all honesty the heat and walking had sapped our energies so we didn't really appreciate the cricket pitch and mock tudor club house set in the heart of busy Kuala Lumpur (very hooray Henry), but at least on the way back we got some cash out. After spending some time on the net we headed out to Little India for dinner, and carefully selected a cafe, based on the number of locals (never fails). Looking like ducks out of water, the main man on the till took us by the hand and guided us (forced us!!) towards an immense feast of biryani, Indian gravy, coffee, apple juice, curry
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Good morning matt - 7am at the monorail station
sauce, and a banana leaf each covered in side orders. Despite being a bit heavy on the price front, it was a fantastic meal and we thoroughly enjoyed this example of Southern Indian cuisine. Stuffed, we wandered back to the hotel room and settled in to enjoy some films and football in our air-conditioned hotel room, luxury at last............

08/10/07

Our second full day in KL started abruptly at half six, as we aimed to get up and beat the crowds for the Petronas Towers. We were in 2 minds whether to bother, as the viewing station was significantly lower than that of the KL Tower, but we got sucked into 'tick it off the list' syndrome, and cracked on. We joined the commuters on a monday morning on the Sky Train, drawing a few interested and friendly glances, and realised that a nation's capital can have a CLEAN and EFFICIENT public transport system, please take note Ken Livingstone........We arrived at the PT stop a little after 7, ridiculously early but in no doubt that we'd be at the front of the queue, which sadly, was my aim!! We walked through the immaculate and designer boutique'd shopping mall
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Theres even a topshop in KL - Heaven
at the base of the tower, alongside the employees of Petronas (Malaysia's national oil company) but noticed few other tourist-looking people. Anyone with a western face, had a briefcase. We did start to wonder what was up, and when we read the notice board outside the entrance, we learned the terrible truth......the towers were shut to visitors on a monday!!!!!!! We were speechless, and gutted, as we'd got up early for a sight we were 50/50 on visiting, only to find it shut. Needless to say accusations were made, I blamed Amy, she blamed me, and after a couple of pics of the tower, which by the way is breathtakingly large, and, if glass and chrome is your thing, mesmerising, we decided that we would walk to the Golden Triangle and hunt for some food (me Tarzan, you Jane) on the way. A little bonus was the opportunity to soak up Kuala Lumpur as it came to life on a monday morning. It was both enjoyable and eye-opening, as you witnessed the same office traffic and behaviour you see all over the world, but with that Kuala Lumpun glitz and panache. If I was in a position to work abroad
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To prove we were there, even though we didn't make it up
for a year or 2, I definitely think Kuala Lumpur, with its diversity and vibrancy, would be my No. 1 choice.

In the end we couldn't find food on our budget, even with it being a bit 'looser', as the business heart of Kuala Lumpur, unlike the Asia we have experienced before, is fricking minted (!!), and something close to London prices is evident. Consequently we walked all the way home, stopping for chilli rice and curried noodles in China Town, not 100 metres from our hotel, before heading back to freshen up. I checked the footie scores (Liverpool the muppets dropped points, again....), and compared to an hour ago, life was good again. We wandered (we did a fair bit of 'wandering' in Kuala Lumpur, which has taken its toll on the knees, making me feel 27, again....) back to the Golden Triangle for some hardcore shopping, only just making it in-time before the heavens opened. Amy got a couple of tops for just over 1 quid (each) and shoes for 3 quid, before she satisfied her Estee Lauder craving with the testers on a Clinique concession stand. Seeing as 'we'd' loosened the budget, and Amy had done
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Meeting up with Barrie, chloe & Lee
some serious bargain hunting, we decided tea and cakes were in order, and we stopped in a swanky looking joint on the main drag. Now bearing in mind our breakfast cost just under 7 Ringgit this morning, a pot of tea and 2 cakes set us back 25 Ringgit, which brought me out in a cold sweat, especially when Amy murdered the brew being a bit heavy handed on the milk!! Still, it made a nice change from plastic garden chairs and surly 'like it or lump it' , so we made the tea, sorry milk, last, and people watched, concluding that depsite their best efforts, Asians just ain't got the shoulders for suits, all looking like they'd borrowed their dad's!! We've also identified the 2 key indicators of wealth in Asia, glasses and cars!!

On the way home we headed to the Petronas Tower Mall and did our best to remain interested whilst gazing longinly into the plethora of designer shops (Amy was also upset I wouldn't let her buy underwear in Marks and Spencer's...errr....not when its a third of the days budget!!!!). I'm telling you, KL on a shopping holiday, with a job at home and/or a credit card (depends if you wanna pay it back for the next 5 years.....with interest), is the ultimate retail experience, as you can get quality genuine designer clothes, for less than half the UK price. Screw New York, KL is the place to go!!!!! We did hang about until dark to see the Petronas Towers lit-up, which was well worth the wait as they were absolutely spectacular, and looking back it was a shame we didn't go up them after all. Unfortunately we're on traveller time, so there is no way we're setting the alarm for half six again...........Knackered after a long and arduous day, we jumped on the packed Sky Train at about 7 (and we are talking really packed, 'popes in a volkswagen' packed), and after a shower, some interwebbing and a bit of raisin bread, we watched the most dreary film in living history, 'Separate Lies', and hit the hay early.

09/10/07

Despite an early night we didn't make it out of bed until about 10, and after another breakfast of chilli rice and curried noodles in China Town, we bought some fruit for snacks (being on holiday we are really indulging ourselves.....) whilst we
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Town Square
visited the Mid-Valley Mega Mall and fed Amy's growing shopping addiction. We jumped on the Sky Train again, and made it to the absolutely massive Mid-Valley Mall in no time, it just seemed a shame that we were gonna spend such a glorious day in an air-conditioned mall but what the hey, we've had plenty of sun. We don't want to get home in January looking OTT like Ron Atkinson!! The shopping centre was immaculate, although somewhat less plush than the malls we had visited in the Petronas Towers and Golden Triangle, and had little or no other western faces on display, which re-assured us that we could find some bargains in Malaysia shops, rather than designer boutiques. In the end we blow a load of cash, buying contact lenses, jeans, shoes, toiletries etc and even squeezing in a quick coffee before we headed home at half 4. We were intending to go bowling or to the cinema, but 2 days on our feet killed our desire for bowling, and with a 1 hour wait for the next films, we just headed home. Leaving Mid-Valley was like entering another world, as the glorious sun-filled sky had turned into a swirling
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Not too far from home
mass of wind, rain and thunder. Luckily our path to the Sky Train was covered, but the rain had meant a few cancellations, so when we finally hopped on, it was rammed. The train was also on go slow mode due to the weather, so it took the best part of an hour to get home.

The final leg was a mad sprint through China Town, ducking under shop fronts for cover, but we got back, not exactly bone dry, but essentially only a little soggy. Luckily we had bought half of KL so despite our growing crisis brought about by our refusal to have our clothes laundered at KL prices, we were able to change into our new clobber. To finally put a pair of jeans on was a huge moment for both us (for me rivalling my graduation, for Amy qualifying as an Accountant), we felt human again, not just greasy travellers............ After freshening up we headed out to meet Barrie, Chloe and Lee who had made their way from the jungle of Taman Negara to KL. They had enjoyed bats, leeches and snakes, so we tried to re-introduce them to civilisation by taking them for an
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Captain Matt
Indian. Little India was as Bollywood as ever, and after a great curry (Barrie yet again had spicy food, i'm impressed), we headed back to China Town for a beer (Well coke. Ten days without a cold one and counting). After catching up on their adventures and giving them the lowdown on the KL shopping scene we headed back for an early night as the alarm was set for 9 tomorrow for our trip to Melaka.

10/10/07

The alarm woke us at 9, but despite a good night's sleep, the lack of a window contributed to a general feeling of zombiness. Still, rice and caffeine helped shift the fog, and after checking our e-mails, we donned our bags and walked to the bus stop (Oh and i've now got a bigger bag which was intended to house all the extra shopping. Unfortunately we went a little OTT so we've filled it, and still need the extra hand luggage bag we were intending to jettison!!!). It only took us, and the 6 other passengers (how do they make any money?) 2 hours to get to Melaka, despite a seriously near miss and some whiplash action (not Miss Whiplash i'm
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Porta De Santiago
afraid). We were dropped at the bus terminal out of town, and after avoiding the taxi drivers, we got chatting to a guest house tout and worked out the route/bus stop we needed in to town. After a quick toilet break, which involved squeezing past the throngs of people waiting to get in the Musilm prayer room, we were on the bus and experiencing some true local hospitality, as Amy was helped with her bag, people smiled, and the driver actually dropped us where we needed to be!! We sorted our new home, the Traveller's Lodge, which was a friendly and casual affair (and we got air-con for only 4 pound 50) run by a Muslim family, so we were requested not to bring pork into the building!! Being sadists, we quickly got changed and decided to head for the historic centre of Malaka, in the blistering afternoon heat.

After walking to, and deciding which, sights we wanted to see and when, the conclusion was that we would hit the big ones tomorrow, and spend the rest of the afternoon indoors and air-conned, in the Naval and Maritime Museum’s (I know what your thinking, I sure can show a
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Which one is matt
girl and good, and interesting time!!). The museums were ok, as museums go, unfortunately not enough weapons on display, and after a few hours digesting the text, we trudged home. With heat exhaustion and a massive calorie deficit threatening to send us over the edge, we stopped off in a café called Toast n Toast, for a couple of sprites, and toast, and toast!!! The portions were miniscule, but being 5 o’clock, we didn’t need to hang on too long for dinner. After a shower and sitting motionless in front of the air-con fans for 20 minutes we decided that the cinema was the way to go tonight. All the films were in English, with Malaysian subtitles so we went for ‘I now pronounce you Chuck and Larry’, which kept us entertained. The film, 2 drinks and an enormous tub of popcorn set us back less than 3 quid, and considering we skipped dinner, it was a pretty good, if nutritionally awful, deal. We stopped for a beer on the way home and got back about half ten to find, to our (well more my) horror, that although the guest house staff had put all of our laundry in the machine, they hadn’t hung it up, meaning piles of damp indelibly creased clothes. I was almost inconsolable, Amy dealt with the problem, and along with the mosquito that got stuck in our room that feasted on me (including my bloody neck), it was a pretty savage end to the day......

11/10/07

Luckily we didn’t get up until 10 today, so despite the mosquito attacks and the nightmares about slightly creased clothes, we were good to go. After a hot shower we enjoyed the ‘luxury’ of our comedy tiny trek towels, which, despite their practicality, are like drying yourself with a postage stamp. Too many nights in decent accommodation with hot showers and big fluffy towels has clearly softened us up, and the timing couldn't be worse!!! Imagine the dorms full of testosterone filled graduates like Rory in Oz!!!! After a breakfast of rice with curry chicken and duck we headed out on another roasting hot day, visiting the Porta Di Santiago and St Paul’s Church first. Luckily I managed to slice the side off my big toe in another ‘Matt away traveling foot-related injury’, this time slicing down the side of a cuticle on a broken floor tile. Luckily I’m getting used to it so just cracked on for the day, leaving the nail clipper skin tidy-up for later!! Next followed the colonial town square, complete with fountain, windmill, clock tower and Christ Church, before we headed into the History and Ethnography Museum. Both the historical sites and the museum were really impressive, un-Asianly well maintained, and with stacks of text in the museum, which plotted Malaysia’s history from the 15th century to present, in detail, I was in heaven. Even Amy remained interested, although we were both feeling desperately bored, almost playing monopoly desperate, after visiting the Democracy Government and Governer’s Museum. These went into all the political crap in stacks of detail, and we spent more time sat on their sofa’s enjoying the air-con than reading anything. Still, the setting of all these places was the picturesque old Colonial centre, and with the sea as our view, it wasn’t all bad.

We decided that after a hard day's sight-seeing in the heat, it was time for some more retail therapy, and more air-con. Don't worry, we haven't become shopaholics and blown our budget. I have kept a close eye on spending and we are still on-course to come in under, which has kept the bank manager happy, and my back happier, because I don't reckon it could handle an even bigger bag!!!!! Amy did manage to break my will and purchase a new pair of shorts to replace her baggy current ones (someone's not eating enough!!), although she wasn't too happy that she needed to buy XL (can't have everything dear!!). We also had a 'discussion' regarding our wake-up times whilst we are away, which luckily I won, for once!! Amy reckons that if we keep getting up late and not setting the alarm then January, and work, will come as a bit of a shock. Well i'm of the opinion that i'm on holiday and she can set an alarm over my dead body. I've been setting an alarm for over 10 years, pretty much 7 days a week (ignoring morning after drinking nights of course, that just ain't croquet..), so forgive me if I want a lie-in. We've got plenty of time to be a slave to Mr Digital. She eventually saw my logic and then spent the next few hours declaring how wise and intelligent I was (or was that last bit just a dream.....?). We got back to the guest house late afternoon and after some albino time, we minced out for an early dinner, at about half five. We stumbled across a Chinese cafe, and whilst the food was enjoyable, the table full of hammered Chinese men tested my patience to the limits (unfortunately despite their age and inebriation I wasn't 100% sure that they weren't Jackie Chan's mentors so I resisted marching over and splitting the table in two with a swift karate chop). Note to self, not just Englishmen are obnoxious and loud when pissed........We were planning on seeing a 'Light & Sound' show tonight, but discovered it had been canned (thank christ, or allah, or ronaldo, or whichever god you worship) so we killed the evening shopping and interwebbing, before settling down to watch Babel in the guest house at 9. The only saving grace was that we didn't pay to see it, the film was shite, goodnight.........

12/10/07

Despite our chat yesterday, we seemed to get up earlier than normal today, only half 8, but be warned Amy, i'm keeping an eye on it......After an hour or so on-line we headed out to the same cafe for breakfast and headed for the Independence Memorial Musuem. The exhibition was ok, but a little samey compared to the rest of the museum's we had visited, so by 12 we were almost done. At about 10 to 12 one of the guys asked us to wrap it up pronto, as the museum closes for 3 hours every friday.......s*&t.....'Amy, there was something I forgot to tell you!! Everything shuts in Melaka for 3 hours on a friday afternoon!!'. Considering we had done the internetting early doors we were snookered, and Amy wasn't best pleased at my omission, so we did what any self-respecting traveller would do on a friday afternoon blessed with glorious sunshine (your thinking a walk, couple of beers al fresco..), we went to the cinema!!! We saw Bourne Ultimatum, which was all-action and just what the doctor ordered, although leaving the darkened room and seeing the light of day caused some long-term retinal damage!! Not far from the guest house, we wandered back for half an hour to kill some time before deciding that swimming in the open-air pool made sense. We sauntered up, relaxed and excited about the prospect of some cardiovascular exercise, only to be asked by the fella on the counter 'you wearing speedos?'. 'No i'm not, i'm........conscious', which resulted in Amy and I getting a bit shirty. I was absolutely livid at such a ridiculous rule, which is only enforced to keep the kids out who mess about so everyone else could do lengths, but trust me, I could see the muppets in there, and boardies or not, I was twice as fast. After drawing a few looks from the security guard, who looked like he thought he was gonna have to earn his keep we left, me incandescant, and Amy, calming me down.

To relax we walked for ages in the heat (as you do), and to celebrate not doing a load of exercise and burning a few calories, we stopped in a bakery for iced tea (how colonial), apple strudle and cheese sticks!!! We went home shortly after and packed for our trip to Singapore tomorrow, before jumping on the net. We are really looking forward to Singapore and Australia now, as we tasted a bit of civilisation, and are hungry for some more. It seems strange putting words like, 'Australia', 'more' and 'civilisation' together, but lets face it, travelling is all about completely altering the way you look at the world!!!!!!! Dinner turned into a bit of a fraught affair as we managed to over-spend by 3 Ringgit our money we needed for our bus tickets tomorrow, so we wasted our last night in Melaka, a place we have really enjoyed, buying extra razor blades and water, as the minimum withdrawl on the ATM was 50 Ringgit!!! When we got home we decided that Asia finished today, and Singapore was a whole new chapter alongwith Oz and New Zealand, so we have drawn a line under the budget. To be honest i've got bored keeping track, what can I obssess about now.........?

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15th October 2007

Singapore
Hi guys, loving the blogs. Glad you're not too worried about the budget, if you try the Singapore sling in Raffles Long Bar it won't be cheap. I was quite a few years ago now when we were there and they were £7 a time!!!! Enjoy.

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