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Published: February 23rd 2015
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Thong picked up at 7:45 a.m. on Sunday, and we went back to his house, which is also on the same land as Yeng’s brothers house.
Yeng was just starting to get ready for the baci ceremony, and she had out her make-up, and someone had brought her a curling iron. It was all very familiar and strange at the same time. People kept coming in and out of Thong and Yeng’s house...privacy does not seem to exist, and no one cares.
Out in the courtyard, one of Yeng’s brothers had a laptop out, and he was helping a friend write a job application in English, so I edited the letter, and reviewed the c.v. I was amazed at the letter-while you might know it was not written by a native speaker, the grammer and spelling were perfect.
Eventually, Yeng and Thong changed into their Hmong clothes for the baci ceremony. I did not take any photos of them getting ready, felt that was a bit over the top. Thong just put on pants and a jacket over his other clothes, but Yeng had a blouse, a jacket with an elaborate panel on the back, pants, an overpiece
in the front, a big neck piece, with symbols representing locks-the locks ensure her spirit is locked into her body, and cannot be taken away, and bad spirits cannot enter. She also had three sashes wrapped around her waist in a very particular way. It took about six people seven or eight tries until the got it right...in the end, it was an older woman who knew how to properly tie the really long pieces of fabric for a bridal baci.
I took a picture of Thong and Yeng when they were all dressed, ready for the baci. Everyone else was in every day clothes, very informal.
Then, everyone went into what is usually the living room of Yeng’s brother’s house. It had been stripped of all the furniture..boy, did I smile, I know about having furniture moved around for a wedding. Thong and Yeng sat in front of a baci centrepiece that was centred on a huge tray. The tray also included two cooked chickens and a mass of little candies and baby bananas. There was a wait for the shaman to show up, and I have a photo of the gathering, ready to begin, waiting for
the shaman.
The shaman did a blessing over the baci cords, and it was relatively short...perhaps ten minutes. Then, the baci cords (white cotton cords, about ten inches long) were handed out, and everyone present tied cords around the wrists of Thong, Yeng and the two people who were with them, the Hmong equivalent of a best man and maid of honour. Each person gives them a blessing. For the first time, I was the bestower of a baci blessing rather than the recipient. It was great to be able to give my blessing to Thong and Yeng.
Next, the shaman did another blessing ceremony with the two cooked chickens. Then, Thong and Yeng lifted up the baci centrepiece and the plate with the chicken on it and carried them out of the room, and posed for photos with the chicken and the baci centrepiece.
Next was a lunch, with the chickens, left over pork from Saturday and salad.
Once again, the men ate in the house, and the women ate outside, in the back. After lunch, the men started chanting and talking. They were gathered to discuss Thong and Yeng’s future, and what role the
two families would have to play. At different times, they called Yeng and Thong in to talk to them, then they called both of them in together, and women were allowed to come into the room. The shaman took an umbrella and a long piece of fabric. Thong had brought them to Yeng’s brother’s house from his house, and they were getting ready for them to go back. The Shaman did a very, very, very long chant, and people walked in and out, even Yeng and Thong. Finally, it was over, and Thong and Yeng were positioned in the middle of the room and escorted through the door, on their way back to the groom’s home. On Monday, there will be short ceremony to take the umbrella, the fabric and Thong and Yeng to Thong’s mother’s house, which is just up the hill.
Thong’s brother brought me home around three in the afternoon, and I had bit of a break before the night time party.
More to come.
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