Laos

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23/01/12 - Laos - The crossing

What a cold night! After being around 30 degrees in the day it felt around 6 at night and i had to get up and dressed to sleep in my winter jumper.

Early breakfast with Mark and Hayley and on the bus to the Laos boarder crossing. We arrived at the river and had to cross over by a small boat taxi to get to the Laos side - goodbye Thailand.

We were met off the boat and received our passports and headed to the immigration check in... then the chaos began.

The 'system' here is to hand your passport in one window and collect it and pay for your visa at the other window. Sounds simple enough? Well there were people crowding around these windows and no one knew what to do (we only found out by asking others in the queue).

Around an hour after arriving we found the right queue, 30 minutes later we managed to hand in our passports and 30 minutes after that we joined the crowd of people waiting to pick up their passports again.

Collecting the passports was an interesting experience because the immigration officer at the window calls out your name and you push through the crowd to pick it up. The big problem with that is Lao people find it hard to pronounce the names of Western people and were just holding a passport against the glass window and relying on people in the queue to shout out the names.

It sounds bad but i was expecting worse and by the time we were ready to pick up our passports it was more like a game of bingo and if they called your name it felt like you had won.

Our next lot of hanging around was in a shop where we handed our passports in to be checked by local police and exchange some money. There appeared to be a long delay and took well over an hour. We were in good company and the time flew by. Some Americans weren't in quite as good spirits as us though which we found highly amusing.

Finally ready to get onto the slow boat. We set off on the mighty Mekong river which was very relaxing and made the rush and stress of the morning all worth while.

It was a 6 hour trip and quite comfy. Bobby and i were not sitting together as the boat was pretty full but i was sat near to Hayley so had someone to chat to.

The river was very empty but we passed areas where local men were fishing and children were bathing and playing in the river. There were occasional huts clumped together but they were few and far between.

The water was brown and tranquil. The river bed was sandy with huge rocks along the shore and all surrounded by lush green hills covered in a blanket of trees.

We stopped at our over night village, got off the boat in the dark and scrambled up a rocky hill to be greeted by a flock of locals trying to sell us a room in their guest house. We choose a cheap one and had a look with Mark and Hayley. The room was clean and had a hot shower so we took it.

Off for dinner with the guys and we all had traditional Lao food of Buffalo Lap which was a mince like meat and a very simple dish.



24/01/12 - Laos - Boat trip

Breakfast of champions of banana pancakes. The guest house had made our lunch which were huge chicken bagettes.

While waiting for Mark to check out we started playing catch with 2 local kids using a cushion. Their older brother told them off but we carried on after he'd gone.

Back on the boat for another 9 hour journey. We managed to sit with the guys and met some more people from Israel who's names i couldn't pronounce. All of us had a giggle and swapped travelling experiences.
The 9 hours seemed to fly by. As we were coming up to Luang Prabang we could see the Pak Ou caves which are set in limestone cliffs and home to lots of Buddha images.

Off the boat and our group has grown from 4 to 6 people and we decided to all look for accommodation together.

Our first couple of attempts were around 35 US dollars per night which seemed steep. We kept looking and moved away from the river eventually finding somewhere for 9 dollars for the room. It strikes me as odd that single people pay the same for a room as 2 people sharing and that it is cheaper to be traveling as a couple (oh well it's good for us).

Our group became split up as no where had enough rooms, we lodged with Mark and the others looked for cheaper accommodation (I'm glad i saved enough not to worry about a budget).

It was dark by now but time to explore our new surroundings. Walking to town we discovered a night market was on and it was huge. Many people were selling hand made scarves as well as paintings and everything else a tourist might want.

Set up down a small alley were some food stalls and as we walked passed each had its own unique smell. We decided on one which was like a buffet where you pay for a plate and fill it, costing 10,000 kip (around 80p).

We sat and had our food and got talking to a couple from New Zealand who are doing our trip in reverse and gave us tips for Vietnam.

I bought a scarf from the market. It seems custom to barter here as the stall holder will tell you the price and ask how much you will pay. I haggled for my scarf from 12US dollars to 10 but could have paid less i think.

I'm starting to get used to saying hello and thank you in the local language.



25/01/12 - Luang Prabang - Waterfall

A lay in, horay! After a shower we stepped outside to find the Israeli couple had checked into our guest house this morning and Hayley was trying to do the same (apparently there was a reason their accommodation was so cheap).

While waiting for Hayley our group grew from 6 people to 9 and we all headed off for breakfast together. One girl had run out of money while travelling so her mum had sent her more. Mum...?

It was time to part ways as Bobby and i had to book out next lot of transport and we wanted to head to the waterfalls near by.

We booked a bus to take us to Vang Vieng tomorrow and a flight to Vietnam on the 30th. A tuk tuk driver named Lee asked us if we wanted a tour and took us to the Khaung Si waterfall.

We didn't think we would make the 32k journey as the tuk tuk nearly broke down on the way up and was struggling on the hills. At one point Lee got out to have a look.

There was a sloth bear sanctuary at the entrance of the falls. These bears are black and fluffy with a cream stripe across each shoulder. They lived up to their sloth name by lazing around their pen.

A short walk and we were at the end of the waterfalls. The first thing to strike me was the vivid turquoise colour of water. I've seen many waterfalls before but these looked as though they belong in Eden.

The falls were tiered and on the next level up There was a rope swing into the water. Bobby had to have a go or 3. I managed a paddle up to my knees.

The final tier was a huge cascading fall. We started to climb to the top of the waterfall. The path was steep and very slippery in flip flops and one lady slipped over coming down. We reached about half way but ran out of time so had to turn around and try not to slip over coming down.

Lee had fixed the tuk tuk when we came back and was chatting to us about Lao and Thai languages and explained that they are similar but Thai people find it hard to understand Lao people but Lao people can understand Thai.

Back to the hotel in one piece and off for another dinner at the night market. I was shattered and left Bobby to shop while i went to pack away my now clean laundry, then bed time.

Quote of the day from Emily 'there must be something in there it's a hole, things live in holes'.



26/01/12 - Vang Vieng - V.I.P. bus

Up and out early with no chance to say goodbye to the guys.

A short tuk tuk ride to the bus station and i started feeling very queezy. Not good considering I've heard this bus trip is a windy bumpy one. We had some Jasmine tea and Bobby found some travel pills for me.

Quick stop to the toilet before we left. The toilet was a hole in the floor and you just have to squat, aim and hope. Well it is all practice for working in the Australian outback.

I started to feel better before the bus was due to depart, thankfully. We had paid for a V.I.P. bus which includes a stop for lunch. The bus smelled like feet but was quite comfy (it needed to be for 8 hours).

The bus went through the mountains. As we climbed I felt we were on top of the world looking down to the green valley below. But as we decended i felt very small and insignificant against them.

The journey was constant up and down and several times my ears popped. The view was incredible.

Wooden huts and small villages were in the middle of no where. Some of the huts walls were woven like a wicker basket but it was difficulty to tell the materials used.

In many places there were clumps of long grasses laid to dry in the sun which would then be gathered together and beaten into shape, possibly for roof thatching. Round wooden trays of small red chilies were left in the sun either to dry out or ripen I'm not sure.

The bus stopped for a break and we could hear them hammering away under the wheel arch which wasn't a good sign. We got going again and all seems well.

Arrived at Vang Vieng and walked to find a room for the night. We found a nice hotel and Bobby haggled the price down.

A walk to the town at night proved how much of a party town this is. It felt like a scene from Ibiza uncovered or boozey Britain.

Really feel old before my time but tourists here seem very disrespectful to the Lao locals, mostly by being half naked and noisey drunkards (Lao people are quite reserved).

We had dinner in a nice restaurant where the food was fantastic and the locals were very friendly.

Walking back there were drunk travellers shouting and singing loudly. Our hotel wasn't as far from the party as we thought and the music played till the early hours. At 3am someone was sick in our hotel and at 4am someone smashed glass outside. Not a very restful night.

Quote of the day from Emily 'watch out that's a rabies chicken'.



27/01/12 - Vang Vieng - Tubing

Up, clean and suncream on, it's time go tubing. We headed to the shop and hired our inflaitable rubber tubes (tyres). A tuk tuk drove us to the beginning of the course which was 3km away.

Carrying our tubes to the rivers edge i could tell the water would be cold. I walked into the river, placed the tube on the water and jumped in... it was cold.

Floating down the river was very peaceful as we came early and had the river to ourselves. There were bars along the river with locals trying to get us to come in and buy a bucket cocktail of booze (it seems we have discovered why this is such a party town).

The bars seemed to disappear very quickly then it was just us and the occasional kayak on the river.

Along the way we had to navigate around lots of rocks and at one point around some logs which turned out to be 2 water buffalo submerged in the water upto their heads. We were around 5 feet away from them and they didn't blink an eye. Their horns looked sharpe and they appeared very powerful, I'm glad they didn't take a disliking to us.

The journey took around 3 hours and during the last hour i could feel myself burning and boy did i paddle to get back quick.

Back to the room for shower and lashings of aftersun - I was in pain!

Dinner in the same restaurant as yesterday as we enjoyed it so much. I bought a thin long sleeved shirt to wear while my burn heels (so glad i kept a top and shorts on over my bikini this morning).

It turns out that yesterday was Australia day which was why it was full of drunk people. Today was much quieter with some youngsters just wanting to have some fun.

Quote of the day from Emily 'I look like a strawberries and cream chupa chups lolly'.



28/01/12 - Vientiane - The capital

Early pick up to head to the capital Vientiane. Arrived at the bus station and everything seemed to slow down. The journey took nearly 4 hours with a stop half way. The roads were terrible with small areas of tarmac and other sections of gravel road with big ramps up and down them. This was not a bus you could sleep on.

We grabbed a tuk tuk to take us to a guest house not too far away but should have asked how much it was before getting in. We got stung a bit at 50,000 kip around £4, doesn't sound like much but that's the same as a room for the night (per person).

After discovering that we have to get our Vietnam visa before entering the country we set about sorting this today. We had a shock to find they are on holiday till the 30th which is the day we fly. This is going to be very close.

Taking a walk around the city we passed mostly guest houses, restaurants and shops. Heading to the edge of town took us to the Mekong river which was a dried river bed with the water far in the distance. We had a good view of Thailand and the sunset here but after sitting for an hour the sun hid behind a cloud and we saw it no more.

Dinner on the main strip and Bobby fancied Indian food which was very good.

A bit further down the road we came to another night market which was much more spacious and relaxed than Luang Prabang.

Casual stroll back to the hotel and it was still very hot.

Quote of the day from Bobby 'the moon is upside down'.



29/01/12 - Vientiane - To the consulate

Given that it's going to be very close for our hotel to get our visa to Vietnam (should get them back at 1ish our flight is 3pm) we decided to walk to the Vietnam consulate so tomorrow when they are open we can head straight there and try to cut out the middle man.

Along the way we visited a few temples which were as spectacular and ornate as the other temples we have seen along the way.

Somehow our amazing navigator (Bobby) managed to get us lost. It was a very hot day (around 30 degrees) with no clouds in the sky. It was hard work but after a couple of hours we reached our goal.

We chilled out in a cafe for a while and had some lunch. I treated myself to a watermelon shake which was perfect for such a hot day. Bobby had some Western food and thinks his burger was lacking meat (I think it was dog).

It's been nice to see the city on foot even though it was a struggle at times in the heat as i'm still getting over sunburn.

Back at the hotel i had my 2nd shower of the day and cooled down for a while.

A walk along Mekong and we decided to stroll over the sandy river bed to the waters edge. It was a bit of a scramble down some rocks before hitting the sand.

We sat and watched the sunset talking about nothing in particular. I put my feet in the Mekong so if my feet rot away in 3 months then we'll know why.

Another walk around the night market and we had a good fruit shake and sat watching local children play on a climbing frame. It's been a great way to unwind and cool down after the heat earlier.

Tomorrow to Vietnam.

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