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Published: June 13th 2011
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We noticed early on that Lao people are generally quiet and reserved, with an easy-going attitude. As in many places, a smile works wonders and guarantees a warm reception. Our guest house in Huay Xai was basic, but the open friendliness of the owners won everyone over. This was day one of our Mekong River trip, in a traditional wooden boat with a covered area, open sides for the breezes and comfortable old bus seats for us all. The boatman’s family’s quarters were in the stern from where they served us generous lunches at a long table. On the second day they stopped and bought a large fish from a fisherman to cook for our lunch – very fresh! The 2 days drifted by almost too quickly with moving scenery to watch all day. We even saw a wild elephant staring out of the trees at us – magical.
At the end of our voyage we disembarked at the ancient capital of Luang Prabang – another place we could happily live! It is, not surprisingly, a Unesco World Heritage site, full of old Lao and French colonial buildings and a huge concentration of temples or wats. Wonderful restaurants enticed us
all into having western food for a change. The general French influence meant we had excellent coffee and pastries too! Although there were many young backpackers there were also many ages and nationalities too. Quite a balanced mix of folks milling in the markets and shops made for a very relaxed 3 days. Our guesthouse was right on the river with individual balconies. One morning we went out at 5:30 to go and give offerings to the monks who collect each day at first light. Fascinating to see such an old practice still going on each day. We bought sticky rice and noodles and the monks filed by with their bowls to be filled. We were on the mats on the ground and gave each one a little something. Any surplus the monks distribute to poor families too so all very neat.
Also in Luang Prabang we visited the Kwang Si Falls with their cascading terraces which invited a swim before visiting the bear refuge at the bottom. Called Save the Bears, this place takes endangered Asian Black Bars (and some Sun Bears too) which have been rescued from the illegal trade in parts or, even worse the harvesting of
their bile for Chinese remedies. They were gorgeous, with white crescents or moons on their chests, but will never be able to be re-released into the wild. Continuing the animal theme we also rode elephants through a river and jungle. They were retired working ones from the logging industry which has died off of course. Tourism gives them a future and us a lot of fun!
Vang Vieng was next on the list. It is a modern construct based seemingly entirely upon tourism. There is almost every adventure sport on offer and more internet cafes in a total concentration than anywhere else we have seen. Not to be outdone we signed up for a tubing trip which was amazing! Huge rains the night before meant high water. It took up quite a long stretch of river and took several hours to do the whole length – such fun to be whizzing or meandering in turns down a river lying in a large inner tube surrounded by jagged mountains straight out of an old oriental painting.
Then on to Vientiane, the capital city, for a last night in Laos. It is the smallest of the Indochinese capitols and seems to be
quite relaxed. Lao cooking is not as spicy as Thai and full of fresh ingredients, most of which we recognise now! The temperature was in the high 30’s coupled with humidity of around 85% which meant that we slowed down on the sightseeing a bit. The Victory Monument is a Lao version of the Arc de Triomphe and quite striking. Also Wat Phra Kaeo, just down the road, was well worth the effort. Built in 1565 by the king, it mirrors the changing fortunes of the Lao people, being first the royal chapel housing the Emerald Buddha, sacked by the Thais, reconstructed on the 20th century and damaged again in bombings. It had many buddhas, all with different hand positions.
We also visited the Cope workshops and organization headquarters. This was a very sobering thing to see. All throughout Lao there were references to the bombings but it wasn’t until we went to Cope that the extent of this emerged. During the Vietnam war, Laos was bombed because the HoChi Minh trail went through it. As this was not an official war there were no rules of engagement here and more ordinance was dropped on this country than all the
Allied raids in Europe during WWII. We kept our own counsel here with mixed feelings but there was no militancy in delivering the facts of what the people face today. 40 years on people are still being blown up by unexploded ordinance every day. There are organizations trying to clear the ground still but Cope deals with prosthetics and rehab – the people. A very worthwhile charity and one that our travel company, Intrepid, supports.
Next stop: Hanoi!
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auspicious
Michelle Duer
Beautiful flower
I believe it is a Spider Lily