Trekking in Northern Laos

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After a quick trip across the river in a very skinny boat, we arrived in Laos. Despite hearing stories of terrible boarder crossings into Laos - we were met by a VERY friendly Laoation man who guided us through the process of getting visas, etc. We were soon passed the checkpoint and on our way. I had very much wanted to go trekking in Northern Thailand but had decided against it seeing that it was all very touristy, very contrived and didn't benefit the communities at all. Thankfully, Northern Laos is a trekker's dream. So at this point, Tory & I split up. She got on a 12 hour bus to Luang Prabang (where I would meet her in a couple of days) and Ali & I jumped on a minibus that took us about 3hrs north to the very small town of Luang Nam Tha.

I loved it there IMMEDIATELY! For those who know me well, you can understand why. It was rural as rural can be with only a handful of travellers (mostly older - a stark contrast to the younger party-happy backpackers from Thailand), all of whom where there for the same reason - to go trekking. And the landscape! Ah! hahah it cannot be described! How frustrating - I can't put it in words, nor in pictures. It is mountains and mountains galore, with villages of bamboo houses tucked into their valleys.

We found a cute guesthouse with gloriously comfortable beds for only $3 each and signed up to go on a 2 day trek with a reputable trekking company that mandates sustainable ecotourism. Then we gorged ourselves on Laos cuisine - we had to try everything! Ali & I decided that distinctly Laos dish called Laap (minced meat plus lots of mint and lots of other spices served w/ a woven basket full of sticky rice, all to be eaten with your hands!) was going to be our new favourite food 😊

The next morning, we set off for our trek. Our group consisted of 7 Westerners and 2 Lao guides (Pon & Bip/Bit - we never understood him properly!). We hiked up into the mountains through hilltribe villages (Laten & Khmu) and into the Nam Tha protected area. Although it was the rainy season and there was no sun in sight, we were all sweating buckets within the first 5 minutes due to the humidity and the steep climb. However, the company was great and the view was fantastic and the 3 hour climb went by quickly. We stopped for lunch in a clearing in the jungle and proceeded to eat the most FANTASTIC food ever (the first of many delicious meals on this trek). Our guides laid out on banana leaves a spread of grilled fish, chillies, green beans, omelettes, grilled egg plant, etc. accompanied by a brick-sized chunk of sticky rice. Squatting down, we all surrounded our feast and ate until we were too stuffed to even be bothered by the pesky leaches.

Hiking again for another 3 hrs, we arrived at a Laten village where were were to stay the night. Our first order of business was to all jump into the nearby river despite the fact that the villagers use it as a disposal place for all things to be avoided as well as where they butcher their dinners (ducks, chickens, cows, etc). I've really through all caution to the wind! Forget hand sanitizer and avoiding unclean water! hahah

The next couple of lazy hours were my favourite of the whole trek. Ali & I wandered through the village watching and talking (through gestures and our very limited Lao vocabulary) with the families who lived there. The village was tiny - only a handful of families and more ducks, cows, chickens, dogs, waterbuffalo and pigs than ppl. It was so fun learning how to make sticky rice, watching all of the animals being fed and seeing what it was like inside the villagers homes (the houses were all made of bamboo, usually raised up b/c of the rain, with thatched roofs with one corner devoted to sleeping and the other for cooking).

Dinner was again, another highlight (I LOVE EATING!). This time, we all sat on the floor of a big bamboo hut which later turned into where we slept, and again, were treated to quite the spread. This time, along with the usual vegetables and sticky rice, we ate waterbuffalo and vegetable soup. The men of the village joined us and the chief did rounds with his bottle of rice whisky which he served to each of us in rounds (it was like drinking FIRE!!!) We all then crashed like a big slumber party on mats on the floor. I have never slept so soundly!

The next next day, we trekked for another 6 hours, mostly in the rain through various villages, farms and jungle. We also had to cross two rivers - one on a VERY sketchy and sinking bamboo raft and the other in a longtail boat. The HIGHLIGHT (sarcastic!!!) of the day was hiking through a drastically thick leech zone. So ok, one or two leeches I can handle. I have grown up canoeing in northern Ontario BUT THIS WAS NOTHING LIKE I'D EVER SEEN! omigod. There were SO many leeches I can't even describe it. They were all over. ALL over my legs, feet arms, hands. Some were tiny, others were monstrous. I know they can't really hurt you but it's all pyschological and I felt like I was trapped in a crazy horror movie! At one point, I just lost it and started to run to get away from them b/c if you stopped for even a second, the would all jump off the ground onto you! GAH!

Anyway, we celebrated the end of a long day w/ young, green coccount juice at the last village where pretty much all of the ppl stood there and stared at us - probably b/c we were SO dirty and so sweaty. After an hour long truck ride back to town, we all showered then had the BEST send off feast at a tiny Indian restaurant where we gorged ourselves on Naan and Beer Lao. Our group was amazing and we all got along well - everyone was so interesting and had so much to share about their country, their travel experiences and so on. It was a fantastic way to end an epic part of my journey 😊

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