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Published: November 17th 2006
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(We told you it was a doozer!)
Ahhhhh Laos...............
As soon as we crossed the border (where of course the Vietnamese 'officials' charged us a $1USD 'stamp charge') we knew we would love Laos, especially after getting so Hanoi'd. The roads are wide (promoting a brief dose of agoraphobia after claustrophobic Vietnamese cities) and quiet (we both have permanent tinitus from the constant horns of Hanoi traffic), the people are so laid back and friendly and the scenery was stunningly unique.
It is a little known fact that Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the history of the world. This is slightly ironic as it is also the most beautiful either of us has seen yet. We have a theory on this fact; as we know the US Air Force is not the most accurate in the World (see friendly fire), although the official line is that they were carpet bombing the forests of Eastern Laos where the VC were supposedly hiding, we feel maybe that after 3 or 4 years of the US mistakenly blowing up trees and temples, the Laotians, who are slightly more laid back than your average West Indian, were like "hey...."
Our first stop in Laos was in the capital, Vientiane. We had been warned that there was not much to do here other than raid the ATM as it was the only one in the whole country! As heaven allegedly awaited in the North, we only spent one night here. We found the perfect antidote to the worlds worst journey at a forest temple that offered herbal sauna's (see pic) and massages. Only after turning over half way through the massage did G realise that his masseuse was really a masseur! Thank goodness no happy ending was offered! We also found the world's best food, Curry Soup, apparently a national dish in these parts.
We took off the next day for Vang Vieng. We will not be able to express in words just how cool this place is! Mornings were spent at the blue lagoon, a stunning little spot with cold, deep blue water full of fish and deep enough to jump from the tree and the swinging ropes (see pics).
The afternoons were spent tubing. When we die, we would like it to be known that our dying wish is to be cremated and for our
ashes to be sent to Vang Vieng for one last tube ride. Tubing involves hiring a large truck innertube and being driven 5km up stream where you are launched into the slow moving river (see pics).
As you float down, you pass numerous bars that have sprung up on the river bank with employees who will fish you in with bamboo poles if you require more Beer Lao. Most bars offer some kind of water-based activity such as jumping and trapeze platforms (See pics). Suffice to say, a trip that could take 1.5 hours ends up taking 4/5 hours. The 2nd time we did this, with some crazy American guys; Mike, Evan and Chris. We set off earlier than the first time as we had got back in total darkness and were trying to avoid this again, but the plan did not work and we got back even later, even more drunk. Your trip ends at a riverside bar where you dance around a fire and drink buckets of Laolao (local fire water). Tubing rocks! We spent a day visiting caves and kayaking but this just made us miss tubing.
The local brew, Beer Lao, is up there
with the best. As well as tasting exceptionally good, it leaves you with absolutely no ill effects in the morning which allows more tubing. The bars and restaurants in Vang Vieng are hilarious and are known by the show that they play on TV all day, such as The Simpsons Bar and The Friends Bar. Many bars offer pizzas, shakes or tea with some unusual extra ingredients making them 'happy' or 'magic'.
After 5 days of sheer bliss we made a sad departure for Luang Prabang. G actually displayed withdrawal symptoms from tubing and moped around the impressive temples and lantern-illuminated night markets (see pic). The night markets were a little odd with hundreds of stalls, all selling items with very little variety. You can spot somebody who has been to Luang Prabang as they have either; big cotton trousers with a swirl design, black embroidered tops, red paper lanterns or very comfortable looking slippers. The stalls would alternate between these four items. Here we met up with Chris (tubing) to celebrate his birthday. We also visited Kuang Si Falls which were fairly impressive on their own (see pic) but will be more memorable for the proximity with which
we came to one of natures wildest beasts (see pics).
As we were a little behind schedule and as we had heard horror stories of the 2 day slow boat we decided to take a 'speed boat' to Huay Xai. These turned out to be no more than delicate, narrow canoes with a 16v, 2 Litre engine on the back (see pic). We had been warned that they could be dangerous and the 'sense of adventure' was heightened by the fact that this 6 seater canoe hosted 8 passengers, one driver and the aforementioned truck engine, as a result there were not enough helmets for G. We needn't have worried however, as the 6 hour trip passed without incident, although it was very cramped and loud.
The reason we had to get to Huay Xai on a deadline was because we were booked into what was to become the second entry into "the top 5 best things we have ever done" within a week; The Gibbon Experience.
Anyone who knows G will know 2 things - he loves monkeys and he hates heights! For three days, G lived the exact definition of the pleasure and pain theory.
Imagine the animal you are most scared of, walking up to it, and flicking its love spuds with a wet towel - that is what G did with heights! Sleeping in treehouses in the subtropical rainforest canopies of the Bokeo region of Northern Laos, moving aroung on zip lines; the highest of which (displayed on the video
here ) is 150m above ground! (Obviously had to get Nat to video it - holding on for dear life means camera holding is not possible!). Zenists have a saying - leap, and a net will appear - that's bollox - there was no net. Scariest, and coolest thing either of us has ever done! We spent our time with a great set of guys; Sam, Carrie, Shaana (all UK), Brandon & Cody (both Canadian), Ray (US) and Max, Max & Patrick (all from Sweden) zipping around, playing cards (and the hat game - thanks for that one Ray!).
We walked 2 hours to the world's smallest waterfall, got attacked by leaches, washed in the river and taught the guides some choice words. Nat stepped onto a hornets nest and was stung over 100 times. Fortunately we had tiger balm with us,
which is perfect for stings and bites, and also, according to the bottle, 'effective against runny nose, infection, pink eye and flatulence - just apply to the effected area!'. Nat's various brushes with nature have been a constant source of humour for G, no more so than when a couple of very friendly monkeys (see pics) started biting her and throwing sticks at her.
When we got back from The Gibbon Experience G had a little built up adrenaline, for which we discovered Beer Laos to be a cure (Hmmm ..... Beer Lao, is there anything it can't do?). We found ourselves playing a cool card-based drinking game, which Brandon orchestrated and for which if there was a looser it was definitely G. A little worse for wear, we headed back to the hotel and were pleasantly surprised to discover that Brandon and Shaana had paid for us to have a nice hotel room, as a honeymoon gift, with a TV so that G could watch football highlights.
Just across the water from Huay Xai we could see Thailand. Leaving Laos was emotional, but the good news was we would be back in 2 weeks .......
Please
find more pics of Laos
here and more gibbon experience pictures
here (Thanks to Patrick for extra photos).
Please keep the messages coming - they have dried up slightly of late......
Love all G & Nat xxx
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Chris
non-member comment
that sexy guy in the tube
Who is that really sexy looking guy in the tube between Nat and Georgie? Could it be the wonderful and amazing Chris? I believe it is. Hope all is well you crazy lovebirds. It is good to hear from you, and I hope all is still going well. I am at work right now, so I need to run, but good luck with the upcoming leg of the journey. -Chris, (the best of the crazy Americans)