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Published: February 6th 2013
We had, for the first time during this trip, booked onward transport (our five-day train ride to Singapore), so we had to be in Vientiane by the 26th. We realize in retrospect we could have avoided backtracking, although the thought of being on any bus ride for more than 12 hours (thus being able to visit more of Laos, but having then to take the bus from Luang Prabang to Bangkok, a whopping 23 hours, or from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai and then Bangkok, a whopping 25 hours) made us recoil in dread. So we kept our plans (for once) and decided to visit Luang Nam Tha and Muang Sing on our next trip to Laos, and soaked up the extra days in Muang Ngoi and took the boat ride down in two days, staying once again with Joy at Sunrise Bungalows in Nong Khiew (the best deal in town and the best bacon in Laos and the sweetest woman/girl in the universe, Joy), thus easing our transition abck into civilization.
Compared to Muang Ngoi, the wifi and hot showers of Nong Khiew were both wonderful and shocking at the same time. The boat ride down to Luang prabang
Fabolous Joy
Visiting Joy's place in Nong Khiaw gives you the best bacon, the cheapest river view and the most friendly and nice host, maybe in all of Laoswas sunny this time, although the views were not as stunning as we had imagined and the most beautiful part of the boat trip was really the bit between Nong Khiew and Muang Ngoi. Still, it was a great way to travel, even though we felt about 90 years old by the time we got off the boat (tiny wooden stools and no wiggle room for 6 hours are uncomfortable at any age).
Our criteria for our next place to stay in Luang Prabang was that it had to be near to the local coffee place we found, and it had to be cheaper than what we had paid, and have wifi (we had a never-ending amount of things to plan and update after being off the grid for weeks). We walked until we found something, and the next day we parked ourselves at the lovely lady's makeshift table and inhaled her delicious coffee potion. This time around in Luang Prabang, we ate dinner at the night market stalls (a madness of buffets and constant turnover of tables, sticky seats and fingers, and incredibly priced delicious food... We strolled through the night market and fell for the most striking
The real deal
Thick Lao coffee, condensed milk and baked goods makes for a perfect start of any day in Laos hand-made quilt in typical Lao patterns, striking neon colours and delicate threading, and bought a colourful scarf as well, both so reasonably priced that we couldn't bring ourselves to bargain them down. Really, when people ask for less than 20 dollars for something that takes 8 weeks to make, you can surely bargain to 10, but really, you have to live with yourself as well. So we were happy we got what we did and to contribute to the local economy (we bought from a lovely old lady and a mother-daughter duo who we liked a lot). We also walked up Mount Phu Si to see the sunset and the temples and statues of Buddha lining its climbing staircase, as well as strolled the town for scenes to photograph (avoiding the alms again as well as most photographing of monks, not because we didn't want to but because we just didn't want to contribute to the photographic persecution of monks that goes on in Luang Prabang).
The bus ride was equally windy (though a bit quicker, so most reading had to be interrupted due to motion sickness) and the scenerey really is stunning all the way down to Vientiane.
Happy people
It is very possible that the people living along the river from Luang Prabang is having their picture taken 1000's of times every day, but they still smile, and some even have some fun with those of us throwing our lenses in their direction We spent one night there and visited our friendly ladies next to Mixok Guest House (on the North West Corner of the street next to the guest house entrance) who have the best travel information in town, are super nice and their prices are 20% lower than anyone else's, and they offer the same services (and tell you the truth about them!) for tickets to get to Thanaleng Train Station the next day. We relaxed, walked around, and had a yummy last dinner at Nam Phu, soaking up all the Lao flavours for the last time...
- favorite experience in Laos (and so far in our trip): trekking from Muan Ngoi!
- favorite Lao food: suzy (pek pek, super spicy) and the curries... mmmm (and we must admit, sticky rice is pretty awesome!)
- best place we stayed in Laos: Verdanda Guest House, in Muang Ngoi
- nicest restauranteur/best bacon in Laos (maybe Vietnam/Cambodia/Laos): Joy's restaurant in Nong Khiew
- places we wish we had visited (but we are glad we spent more time where we were): Muang Sing and Vieng Xai
Laos is amazing! We think its saving grace is its lack of
River kids
all along the river, life is lived on and around the river. That includes having fun and swimming beaches and Angkor-like sights, making it a destination for mostly older, more relaxed travellers looking for cultural exchanges, and saving it for the most part from party youngsters (except for Vang Vieng) and jetsetters. China is sinking its fangs in, though, so get there while you can 😊
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mom
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shopping and eating
at least the food you can eat and---it's gone! but the souvenirs are so gorgeous, endless temptations, where do you stash it? or are you able to judge what can fit, weight, etc.? really, i would be overwhelmed, such beauty all around and the desire to collect... i guess one has to carry memories of the mind...