Do I Need to Have a Permanent Address?

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Laos time is similar to what one friend once coined as “Jewish Standard Time”…it means whatever the time stated it doesn’t hold. So when we are told the boat departs at 11AM and it doesn’t leave til noon that is expected - we were waiting for the backpackers to cross the border and make their way to the boats. The slow boat ride from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang takes two days with a stop in Pak Beng. The first day is about 6 hours and the second is 7. It was quite pleasant during the day but once the sun went behind the mountains…it was really cold and the wind did not help either! But I thoroughly enjoyed the ride minus the hard seats. I was able to read and finish my book, First They Killed My Father about life in Cambodia during the time of the Khmer Rouge, which scarily was not that long ago. I actually lucked out on the boat ride both days and had a row to myself. I mean these are just wooden benches on the boat that are supposed to seat two tushies…its virtually impossible unless you are rail thin…and the boat is supposed to hold anywhere from 60-80 people although it isn’t unheard of to cram on over 100…lots of plastic chairs here too and floor space to fill. Anyway, so a bunch of us got there early to get a seat close to the front away from the engine and to sprawl out. There was this one couple behind me from the states and they just wouldn’t SHUT UP…headphones…but they were bickering about all the groups showing up and if they were going to come on our boat or the other boat and that they should be on the other one so they could keep their seat for themselves…the wife kept telling him to be quiet and she would then start up and say that they should be on the other boat there is more room,etc…guess they haven’t been in Laos that long….they need to chill out.

The ride was pleasant the first day and when we arrived at Pak Beng it was getting dark, which was a little disappointing cuz from what I saw it looked like a cute place and I would have enjoyed a few hours to walk around. Unfortunately, the place I wanted to say was all booked…I was really looking forward to a hot shower…there were none. So I ended up at a GH just next door that was a dump but convenient since you have to walk up a massive hill of sand to get to the street where there are places to stay…obviously I got a porter. I’m done pretending to be a tough guy. I did it for the first few months and while I can still manage to take all of my stuff and my 30KG bag on my own, I don’t need the stress of it on my neck and back when I can pay someone 1-3USD to save me the pain…and I don’t mind!

I am now sick. I guess I am not surprised thinking back…I’ve been gone two months with no problem and then taking a long boat ride on the water in pretty cool temperatures I got slapped in the face with an awful sinus thing. Where is my ENT doctor when I need him! Took to just a few meds but mostly stuck with natural remedies…ginger, garlic, honey, tea, spicy foods, WATER…not too far from what I’ve been eating anyhow. So the first day I put myself up at a nice GH…although long story short I had a NY attitude moment that got the best me…well, I was SICK…and ended up leaving the hotel first thing in the morning and went to a better one for the same price where I spent the entire day inside, in bed, and online. Love the wireless! I think it was a productive day, not only did I get to respond to emails from 3 weeks prior but I rested which is very much needed when one is sick. Anyway, when I went to buy like a box of tissues the guy said that everyone is buying them…I guess a lot of people have been getting sick…I really didn’t realize that it would be this cold in LP. But it is normal for this time of year although the locals cant seem to get over it as they all talk/complain about it as well…lots of Lao Beer sweatshirts are being sold on the streets and nearly every backpacker is wearing one walking around! Also, the weather pattern is pretty predictable here…probably having something to do with the situation of the city surrounded by mountains and on the river….every morning is super chilly and foggy/ cloudy…by 11 or so the sun warms up the air, the clouds dissipate and the sun breaks through and its very pleasant out. Then at night it gets cool again.

I spent my first day “out” in Luang Prabang doing what I do best…meandering. I did have some direction initially (to pick up my airline ticket for my flight to Bangkok) but afterwards just waltzed around from Wat to Wat. There are a ton in this city…honestly, nothing quite like the monasteries and dzongs of Tibet and Bhutan and most monks do not appear as dedicated to their studies of Buddhism as elsewhere. From what I understand they become monks for the education and drop out when completed. But so many smoke, run around and just not like ones I have run into elsewhere. Maybe since they are young they should be allowed to be kids…I dunno….

For the evening I climbed to the top of Phu Si which is the hill in town, to watch the sun set with the rest of the tourists…Afterwards I went out to grab some food and saw a HUGE gathering of backpackers and a line out to yonder for some street food…obviously I figured it must be good and when I saw that it was 5,000 kip for a plate (that is about 50 cents) I said sure thing…balances out what I am spending on my sleeping! Good food, good conversations with people I don’t know and just nice to get out. Obviously I ran into all of them the next day in random parts of the city…

Have I mentioned the karaoke? OK…I wont then. That’s as bout as much I can take of it too…

I signed up that evening to go on a day trip/ trek the next day. I figured I was feeling a bit better and even though I never made it to the National Museum, which I would have liked to and did but got there just a tad too late, I remembered that I prefer the day trips to see things away from the flocks of tourists, especially when it’s a tribal village. It was an expensive tour (relatively) as we had an English-speaking guide and were taken to the village and on a path with ZERO tourists, which eventually led us to Tat Kuang Si, a waterfall that hoards of tourists go to. They all pay something like $5 and we paid $27 but it was worth every penny. It’s such a better experience. On my trip was a Swiss guy, Norwegian guy, Thai girl, and a fellow-NYer - Lance. I was surprised to find another American for once on one of my trips and to be from NYC as well was a pleasant surprise. I definitely enjoyed the day and the conversations and obviously, in particular walking through the local village. As we drove in you can just tell you are in a different world especially as all the kids are waving and saying hi and running toward you! The whole day was just wonderful and sort of flew by as Lance and I just chatted away. We eventually made it to the waterfalls and I have to say, this was the nicest one I have been to in Laos so far - maybe not the most impressive (as far as power) but definitely the most beautiful…the water is CRYSTAL clear and there are different tiers and it’s just lovely. We walked around a bit and then made our way down to the swimming area. The water was pretty damn cold but I was determined - despite still being sick and a lapse in judgment I got in the water….well I had no choice - I didn’t have any jumping pictures yet in Laos and what better place than into a pool of a waterfall…So there was also this rope hanging from a tree that you could tarzan swing from and this poor guy went to jump from it and I guess the rope got caught between his legs so he didn’t want to let go and get burned so he hung on not realizing that he would swing back right to the branch the rope was hung from and he bashed his head - thud! He seemed fine afterwards although it sounded terrible, but I deduced that he could handle the pain given the piercing he had at the bridge of his nose. The whole ground area was pretty damn slippery and muddy so of course I fell on my ass at some point.

When we got back Lance invited me to join him and an Aussie couple, Patrick and Angela, whom he met on his flight from Siem Reap to LP, for dinner at his hotel. The Aussies were SO nice and it was a really fun dinner…as always surrounded by good company and great conversations. A few hours later we left and headed back…Patrick and Angela were actually coincidentally at my hotel. And I was sure excited to climb into bed and enjoy the niceties of a decent hotel!

And how can I forget my purchases! I met this great French girl who is a designer in Laos (her husband a well-renowned Laos chef) and bought a few things from her…dress, shawl and hat. All of which are just ADORABLE and I love it. Really beautiful stuff and made to fit me.

My flight to Bangkok was at 8AM, so once again I was up before 6AM and got a ride to the airport. One thing to note is that as the hotel was driving me to the airport we had to make a stop to drop this woman off at a wat so she could give her morning alms to the monks. This woman was one of the most beautiful older women I have noticed in all my time in SE Asia. Lance and I were discussing the day before just how gorgeous the kids are and I thought to myself how I haven’t noticed any of the older women and that could just be because they aren’t out and about as the youngsters are…anyway, strange to see it the very next morning. Just a random sidenote…

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Comments

[Erika]

Jumping!
This is one of my favorite jumping pics of you! The entry was awesome Bethie, as always, I hope you all all better. Safe travels to Africa and can't wait to hear from you!