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Published: November 30th 2007
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So after nearly crashing on the way to Hanoi Airport as my taxi driver caught some winks at the wheel, I made my flight into Luang Prabang, Laos in one piece.
Now here is a tale of the good samaritan. On arrival at Laos Customs, my fiscal firepower was a mixed arsenal of: 600,000 Vietnamese Dong, 2,000 Thai Baht and one crisp Scottish tenner, that I've been carrying in my wallet throughout this adventure and is destined for my first pint of Tennents (yes, I said Tennents, I admit it, I miss that watery fizz!) when I get back home. All in all, about 25 pounds, or $50 dollars in mixed currency. I thought this would be fine, but when I got to the VISA desk at Immigration, I was asked for $36 dollars. I had no US dollars and no Laos Kip and I hadnt bargained for such a steep VISA fee given how poor a country Laos is and also, since I havent paid this amount anywhere else.
When I told the official, he actually told me to walk through customs (leaving my passport as collateral) and into the airport forecourt where I could change my various
notes to US dollars at the money exchange and then come back and go through immigration - how bizarre. At the money exchange (no cash machines in Luang Prabang airport), I managed to muster $30 from my Vietnamese Dong and Thai Baht and by trading my tenner, I'd make it; however, the woman was having none of my "Royal Bank of Scotland" Sterling note. "No have lady, no have lady" said she, stabbing my tenner with her finger, totally unconvinced of my explanation that Sterling is Sterling. "I show you lady." to which I replied "Yes, I know what Queen Elizabeth looks like thank you very much." In desperation, I even resorted to the words that are spoken by thousands of people across SE Asia at any given moment in time to explain anything and everything: "Same, Same... but different" and at that point I realised I was getting nowhere. Actually, if anything, I was closer to being sent back on the next flight to Hanoi.
My Guardian Angel was very busy that day and right at my time of need, I was rescued by 2 American tourists who had seen me at customs and realised I was in
a tight fix. They insisted on giving me $50 (which is about 25 quid) to get sorted saying "if I was in your situation, I'd hope someone helped me out" in a kind of "what goes around, comes around" way. How trusting and good natured was that?! They gave me their business card and said pay us back when you can and I humbly thanked them. Their business card explained they worked for a charity called "Care To Help" which helps establish water supplies for rural areas of Vietnam and Laos, so if anyone is reading this blog on the run-up to Christmas and get's that urge to donate to charity and offset the conscience of buying all those expensive gifts, then please do check out and consider their cause. www.caretohelp.org
After sorting everything out at customs, I took a taxi into town and found a nice guesthouse run by a friendly old lady. For the next 3 days, she would greet me with a big smile and say "Somebody..." and I felt this a quirkily cute and benevolent greeting given these guys don't speak much English. As it turns out, she was actually saying "Sabbaidee", which of course
means "Hello" in Lao.
I shouldnt neglect to mention how welcoming and friendly the people generally are in Laos. All warm, bright smiles when you greet someone, no need to barter because your given fair, honest prices and the thing that sets Laos apart in SE Asia, no persistant harrying from vendors, tuk-tuk drivers etcetera. If anything, you have to approach these coy folks to make a purchase. It's a wonderful place.
Luang Prabang was a perfect place to start my trip through Laos and it's tranquility (exuberantly abundant after Hanoi) was just what I needed. It is a really peaceful small town, sandwiched between the Mekong River on one side and another river on the other side. It's a UNESCO World Heritage city so there are no buses or large trucks allowed in the centre and the most traffic I encountered was when manouvering past the countless monks out collecting alms and the odd tuk tuk, bike or taxi. There are loads of beautiful temples and it was a pleasure to just wander around the serene streets and sleepy alleyways.
On the second day I was there, I went on a elephant trekking tour. Unfortunately, I
was signed up alongside 5 older French tourists who didnt speak much English (loads of French tourists here by the way) but I was lucky to get along well with one of them so we shared an elephant together - as you do... The elephant ride was really cool, I find them incredible animals and I figured these guys owed me a wee ride in the jungle given how I cleaned up after them for a summer at Blairdrummond Safari Park in my teens. The real highlight of the day was seeing the gushing Kuang Si Falls, a multi-tiered, high cascade of water into turquoise water pools at the bottom. The downside of the day was visiting a minority village in the jungle where very, very young children were doing the pleading towards us tourists to buy some tradecraft, which didnt seem right.
On the way back to the town, the tour guide nudged me then pointed out the window and enthusiastically exclaimed: "Here Pussy Market!" "Excuse' moi?" said I. As it turns out, alongside the "Phousi Market" (yes, pronounced the same), there is also a Phousi Hotel and a Phousi Mountain. I had to climb Phousi Mountain as
I was intrigued towards the view from the top and it was really nice to look out over the peaceful town and wander around the many buddist effigies and statues.
The next day I just wandered around the place enjoying the low blood pressure this place assures and on the last day, I took a "VIP Bus" (i.e. a minivan stuffed full of backpackers) South, to the town of Vang Vieng. On the morning of the pick up, I waited for an hour outside my guesthouse before walking to the booking office to unleash hell (im exaggerating). Thankfully, they were able to radio a van to come back and collect me and off we went on a really scenic drive through the Laos highlands towards the party town of Vang Vieng and the new backpacking phenomenon in Laos that is "Tubing"...
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