Bye bye Chiang mai, the 2 slow boat to luang prabang


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Asia » Laos » West » Luang Prabang
October 13th 2007
Published: October 13th 2007
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Well we've had an eventful week, with no real opportunity to upload the photos so we're putting up another blog now with an array of photos! As usual Pauls on photo duty, being the techie in our little twosome, and i'm blogging!!!


Our last night in chaing mai, involved some drinks with our group from the trek!! We all got some grub and graced 2 establishments with our presence! Despite the usual commitment on both our parts to get to bed early, it was about 3am by the time our heads hit the pillows!


Up early then on the 6th october to do some last minute preparations, withdrawing huge dollops of cash and stocking up on repellant etc! There are no atms in laos until vientaine, which is to be about 10 days into our laos trip, so had to bring the cash in and change at the border!!


We had booked our 3 day trip to laos, 1 day to border, and then 2 day slow boat trip to luang prabang with overnight in a place called pakbeng, and we were dreading it as we had read some rough reports about the trip on the net, but figured we were 'hard' after our trek and able for it!!!!Said bye to bow chiang mai house with its lovely rooms, and got a nice (thank god) minivan to chiang khong at the border at around midday. It was a 6 hour trip, but it stopped twice for maybe 15/20 mins so the time flew. So far so good! Got to chiang khong to our included accomadation, they didnt have enuff rooms so we were put into PJ's guesthouse. Room fairly dank, and the lock was broken on the door, and a couple of cockroaches were noticed, but we were well prepared for all that so took it in our stride. The guesthouse beside PJ's where we were supposed to be staying provided a nice dinner overlooking the mekong across to laos, and we had a wander round chiang khong (not much to see) and a relatively early night.


Up early again for breakfast, and then a longtail boat across the mekong - all of 2mins- to laos, huay xai! Then, a visa purchase, and currency exchange later, into a truck and off to the boat port for the slow boat.


The slow boat boat was surprisingly ok!!!!!! The benches weren't anything special of course but had their own cushions, and we'd invested in two for 1 euro each as well before departure, so numb bum was deferred quite a bit. Take a look at the photo's to get a feel for the boat!!!! It wasn't too bad, there was a bit of craic to be had, the scenery was fantastic, and they served beer! It was also loaded with irish people!!! We hadn't seen so many Paddy's since the green isle!!


Got to pakbeng, 7 hours later, and were prompt getting off boat, and ignoring all the offers of help and accomadation. Straight up to the top of the town to try find the one place i could find half a recommendation for on internet. For the record, we stayed in SIVONGSACK guesthouse, they charged us 300 baht, and the room was spotlessy clean and spacious and comfortable, with our own lovely clean bathroom. The family were friendly and helpful, and were delighted we had a recommendation for their place. As they didnt have the internet in the town, he asked would we mention it somewhere for him, so here will do for now. I suppose it will pop up on some persons internet search. We had heard bad things about accomadation in pakbeng, so we were thrilled it had worked out so easy! Most people off the boat got accomadation for 80-100baht, of varying standards - a lot not nice at all- but we would have paid 500 baht for our lovely room if needs be! Then after a quick wash we pottered down to an indian restaurant in town, which had lovely food, paul had read about it somewhere. Back in the guesthouse then for 9.30pm, which gave us an hour to get ready before electric went. No electricity in the village after 10.30pm!!!!!


Back on the boat the next mornig by 8.30 am to secure a seat. it was a slightly different boat, but again not too bad, although a little more cramped than the day before, and this time not so many cushions to share around, so we were glad of our investment in our own! The boat trip was about 6 hours again down mekong, with more of the same. For some people they had had enuff at this stage, but have to
Jason n EmilyJason n EmilyJason n Emily

Note random messers in the background!
say we were content, reading, chatting, looking at scenery, and having a few cold 'beer lao's'".


Arrived into Luang prabang that afternoon, and after 2 days out of civilisation, finally having our first taste of laos was a bit of surprise. The town is lovely, really pretty, with lovely cafes and restaurants, and old french colonial buildings, pretty lights and baguettes and pastries galore. It's small, but really relaxed and clean. Got an ok place to stay for 8 us dollars, about 6 euro, and settled in for some chilling out. We spent much of our time relaxing and eating western food and french baguettes in Luang prabang. And were surprised by how immediately bloated we felt after 2 months of thai food!


We went up to the waterfall kuang si in a tuk tuk one day. Since its the end of rainy season it was too swollen to swim in unfortunately, but we got drenched from head to toe, so got the jist of the water temperature anyway, and enjoyed the sights, and seeing the tiger and bear sanctuary they had up there too.


We also went to a show in the childrens
Elaine on way to Chiang KhongElaine on way to Chiang KhongElaine on way to Chiang Khong

Stop off for some grub along the way!
cultural centre to support the community. There was only about 15 people in the audience and it was a series of puppetry, and dance performed by the local kids to reflect how the new year is celebrated in laos. That was quite good, and started off with a blessing by some laos men, who handed out food and tea, and tied white strings around our wrists while blessing us to hope for good things for each of us!! It was their first performance but is to be on twice a week on an ongoing basis to raise fund for the centre etc. They have lots of community projects in laos it seems, and luang prabang is a unesco world heritage site. We bought some laos-english kids books there that we are going to give to some laos children as there is a huge level of illiteracy in the country, and books are rare, so the 'brother mouse' roject is to promote reading and learning etc. We were getting really charitable given our budget but have found laos to be very cheap so it wasnt a problem, but we'll probably reign it in now for a while!!!!!



Etienne
Paul, nearly There!Paul, nearly There!Paul, nearly There!

41kms to chiang khong, thai-laos border!
from our trek arrived on wednesday into town so we hooked up with him and his boat buddies a bit, and travelled today with them on the VIP bus (12 dollars-5hours - but certainly nothing very VIP about it) to vang vieng. The journey while scenic was a bit hairy. We travelled up up up for hours, and drove on these windy roads up the mountains for the majority of the journey, only passing VERY rural villages every once in a while. There have been hijacks and trouble on this route in the past, so on one of our stops were informed by the other passengers that there was a guy on our bus with an ak-47 under his jacket - acting as security. We had heard this before on the net, but thought it an urban legend, but sure enuff, the butt of the rifle was there at the end of his coat. We were a little perturbed by the neccesity of this, but at least he was on the bus to protect us!!!!!!!! I think there was another guy up the front with a handgun also, and along the windy route, there were about 6 men stationed at
Elaine, about to cross the borderElaine, about to cross the borderElaine, about to cross the border

in chiang khong, thailand, with huay xai in the background across the river. Note sturdy river transport also!!!
the roadside with similar firearms. Hmmmmm.... At least we were nearly there before we knew all this!!!

Anyway, without incidence, we arrived in Vang Vieng, and said goodbye to our bus!!!


So we're in Vang vieng now, a similar size to luang prabang, but not as pretty, but seems like a fun town!! Got another loveleeeee place to stay (we're getting spoilt at this stage) - 6 dollars a night- maybe 5 euro, and its like a hotel room, with a balcony and spotless again. It's called riverview and is only open 2 months so its brand new. Delighted with ourselves. Going tubing tmrw down the mekong (big blow up inflated tractor tyre tubes as floating rings) with a big gang so should be fun, and safe too as there is so many of us!!! Cant wait!!!


We're well and happy and having a ball!!! Another few adventures under our belts!!!!


x Paul and Elaine x




Additional photos below
Photos: 41, Displayed: 28


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Comfy hmmm!Comfy hmmm!
Comfy hmmm!

The slow boat on day 1 - lovely jublee
The speed boat we didnt takeThe speed boat we didnt take
The speed boat we didnt take

3 Options to get to Luang Prabang, Fly Laos Airline, really bad safety record, dont publish there crash sats, conveiniently. This nice little speed boat, 30 people killed a year on them as they often hit debris, 2 day slow boat, some reports of sinkings, but all in all the safest we thought
Jungle kidsJungle kids
Jungle kids

These kids weren't to happy when we pulled up in there swimming spot to pick up some rice
Aaaah my first Beer LaoAaaah my first Beer Lao
Aaaah my first Beer Lao

cool crisp beer lao, some good tunes and beautiful views, I think we took the right mode of transport
Time pushes onTime pushes on
Time pushes on

Notice all the pasty faces, yep loads of Irish on board
Pak Beng Guesthouse - sivongsack GHPak Beng Guesthouse - sivongsack GH
Pak Beng Guesthouse - sivongsack GH

Apart from people constantly trying to sell u opium (Situated in the golden triangle, think its number two after afghanistan for poppy production), Pak beng was quite nice actually, Guesthouse was good too
Heading for Boat day 2Heading for Boat day 2
Heading for Boat day 2

Good quality road in Pakbeng
All a board!All a board!
All a board!

Not an easy task to balance urself getting on the boat with a rucksack on ur back, and that was after having to basically slide down a steep mucky verge to reach the boat, all fun tho
Will She or wonWill She or won
Will She or won

Elaine didn't by the way, of course me being the ultimate gentleman risked my safety once again to ensure Elaine survives to see another day :D
Passing BoatPassing Boat
Passing Boat

Arty shot!
Boat day 2Boat day 2
Boat day 2

A little more cramped this day but still not toooo bad
River AcrobaticsRiver Acrobatics
River Acrobatics

Village kids spending their days summer salting into the river, no MTV or play stations here


13th October 2007

news!
You really look like ye are having an adventure now!! We are looking forward to our own but in the meantime, have a look at our website - we have put up more photos of the house as requested! They are on the last page of Ard Easmuinn photos! Enjoy!

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