Neighboring countries, worlds apart

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Two weeks ago we crossed the Thai border into Northern Laos. Laos is one of the least visited countries in South East Asia and has only recently opened its doors to tourism. One of the first things we noticed was the people. Compared to Thailand they are much more reserved, with many of the areas even bordering poverty.

We started our travels in the border town of Huay Xai and from here caught a slow-boat down the Mekong to the riverside village of Pakbeng. This journey took us 6 hours (on small, hard wooden bench seats) although the scenery and rock formations more than made up for the comfort factor. We arrived in Pakbeng early evening, eager to find our previously-booked guesthouse and enjoy our first Beer Laos. Things didn’t quite go to plan - scams, drugs, alcohol and constant noise made for a very quick exit the following day. We climbed back onto the slow-boat for a further 10 hours to Luang Prabang (including an unplanned stop-over in a neighboring village where the engine broke down).

Luang Prabang was colonized by the French. Its architecture, French breads and coffee make it feel as though you’re walking through a small French village, definitely not an un-developed country hidden in South East Asia. We fell in love with the town and quickly developed a routine of baguettes and coffee in the morning, followed by a stroll around town. Along with much lazing around, we managed to visit the Kuang Si falls about 30km and see the 35m drop, limestone cliffs and turquoise pools (not even a postcard would do justice).

After 4 days in Luang Prabang we took the 6-hour, continuously winding road to Vang Vieng. The roads were a real eye-opener for us both. Along with the anti-government gunmen dotted along the roads, the villages and hill-tribes were boarding poverty. When we arrived in Vang Vieng, we were shocked and almost put off to see bar after bar, restaurants playing ‘Friends’ (yes, the American sit-com), large hotels and tour companies. It was almost as if it had lost its culture to cater for rising tourism in the area.

We only stayed 2 days, long enough to get involved in a 20-2 water-fight by the river (20 being the very small 3-12 year old laos children, and 2 being Tom and I) and go tubing down a 3km stretch of the Nam Song River (in the inner-tubes of truck tires), stopping off at the river-side bars to enjoy a beer and try our hand at the giant rope swings.

From Vang Vieng we continued down to Vientienne (Laos capital). The so called 3-hour ‘Air-Conditioned’ bus took us through 6 hours of grueling heat into a city celebrating its last day of Songkran - Laos new years water festival. From the moment we stepped off the bus we were splashed by very happy, perhaps ‘one-drink-too-many’ laos, blessing us with a happy new year. By the time we found a guesthouse, we being blessed with full buckets of water straight over our heads and packs (thanks to the foreigners). One night was enough in the city, we were ready to hit the south of Laos!

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Photos

Songkran
Laos New Year!

Songkran 2
Laos New Year!