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Published: February 8th 2007
Beerlao on the Mekong
I should make this stuff under license in the UK - could make a fortune. Comes in pint bottles and is best beer in SE Asia. Best price we found was 45p/bottle out here...Bry speaking: Laos is much more developed than people would have you believe. In fact, because all their internet facilities are brand new they are amongst the fastest and most up to date equipment we've seen on the road. The people here are seriously laid back and love a drink and a party more than any other culture we've encountered. On our way into town we passed a typical Laos disco, which is basically a bunch of rice whiskey soaked dudes boogying on down. First day we mooched round down, popped our heads into a couple of the stunning Buddist temples (which are all in the process of being re-gilded on the tourist dollar) and went round the Royal Palace.
Then to the main event... we booked a two day jungle package. We mountain biked for hour and a half, then had lunch a a local beauty spot before trekking up to a hillside village. Now, for all those bike crazy people out there, I'm afriad you will never make a mountain biker of me... I don't have the guts to bomb it down the hills nor the strength to cycle up them! The village was basic, but seemngly comfortable.
They were in the process of bulding a new school. The kids were amazingly mature. We saw a 18month ish little boy expertly whittling a stick using a knife appraoching a foot long... a sight to behold! The girls over about 6 seemed to have charge of the babies whilst the parents were gathering wood, etc. We weren't there long, just enough time to have a quick look and buy a drink from the only shop. Then it was back to the lodge... a stunning setting in the forest overlookng the Nang Khan river, but really cold at night. After dinner we joined the staff for their monthly party and were peer pressured into downing the rice whiskey... honest guv it took loads of persuading ;-)
Next morning at stupid-o-clock we were up to go with the Mahouts to get the Elephants in from the jungle where they sleep at night. It was truly amazing, we both rode them back to camp where Tom braved the cold of the dawn river to join the Mahouts in giving them their daily scrub. We were the only ones up that early, so had the elephants all to ourselves. They were doing
us a bit of a favour after partying with us the night before. Fantastic animals; all rescue Elephants from when logging was made illegal and a great number of domesticated Elephants were left to fend for themselves, rather unsuccessfully. All in all a brilliant experience, and all this before a cup of coffee! So, breakfast dispatched it was time to get back to town under our own steam again, this time kayaking for 4 hours or so... now white water I could really enjoy, I'm sure New Zealand will get me hooked.
Our guide was Tong, he was an absolute star. We went with the more expensive tour operator, as they seemed to have the best ethical credentials. One of their things is a hook up with the local college, giving English students jobs as guides. He was with us the whole two days and did his best to answer all our questions about the political system, education, healthcare provision, etc. Although, his vocab let him down a little so I can't actually tell you the detail of these things. He was remarkably cheerful, seemingly genuine. We got talking about our families to discover that his father had died
Luang Prabang market
There's a quaint night market every nighton the main strip here when he was a child, his younger sister was deaf and his older brother had died two months ago in a road accident... so the job of bringing in the money for his mother and sister now sits with him. He told us that his dream is to return to his village and be a teacher, but he could earn more being a tuk tuk driver so now he was the head of the family he was unsure as to what to do. I hope he's able to find a way of balancing both.
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