Bia Hoi Ahoy...

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Tom speaking: Another overnight train from Hoi An, after one last morning visit to the post office to send the shoes home, and we're up in the North in the old capital, Hanoi. A bit more laid back than Saigon - felt pretty safe wondering round for somewhere to stay at 6 in the morning (still dark); only got hassled twice and they didn't need telling 'no thanks' twice.
The beginning bit of the train journey here, between Da Nang and Hue during the afternoon, was pretty spectacular, climbing a long gradient along the coast. The weather was pretty grey so unfortunately the photos don't really do it justice.

Bry speaking: Have loved Hanoi, sorry we've only had two nights here as there's loads more I'd like to see. We arrived before dawn and decided to walk through town as it was waking up; which was fascinating. From street-side butchery to bikes loaded with flowers to the point where it was difficult to make out the rider... all a bit surreal and deserted. Then a couple of hours later, you would hardly recognise the place for stalls and bustling shop fronts.

First day we tucked in to some great street noodles, all of 30p sterling for a big plate of noodles, a side salad, a pork broth and 2 spring rolls... can't be bad! Popped to the lake and the temple in the middle and then picked up the LP's walking tour around the market streets. They have one street per type of merchandise, so one street was all metalwork, the next all sweets, then clothes, and on, and on. The infamous 'counterfeit street' as we're told it translates had packed up the Gucci and Prada in favour of selling decorations for Tet (their New Year celebration, which falls 18th Feb and in which everyone officially ages one year).

Yesterday we had a long lazy lie in before heading to the prison museum. The trip was a little marred by the running commentary of some American tourists ahead of us making such informed comments as "the commy got what he deserved" when looking at photos of beheaded prisoners heads on poles. In the evening we found Bia Corner... which is basically a corner with little shops selling Bia Hoi, a local brew that only lasts a day and costs 5p sterling for about half a pint... although I think that's about how much alcohol you get too. Great place to meet other travellers, we met a young couple who'd just arrived from China and went for a great hot pot with snails, fish, prawn, pork and some other bits... very tasty. Then back for some more Bia Hoi and we got chatting to a couple of voice-over artists from Tokyo... all in all a top night. A quick scoot past Uncle Ho's embalmed body this morning and then we're off to Laos in a hour or two.

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Photos

Better than First Great Western
Dinner on the train. From left, rice with cabbage stuff, lime leaf soup, pork in spicy sauce.

Groovy tunes
When we had unscheduled halts or longer than expected waits at stations, they pu on 'Viet-pop' over the tannoy. Sounded like the theme tune for some 80's cop show...