4000 Islands - Don Det


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Asia » Laos » South » Si Phan Don
March 16th 2006
Published: March 21st 2006
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The 4000 islands is sort of a delta in the Mekong before it drops down about 50m along a long ledge of rock before becoming a river again. Don Det, where I spent most of my time, has sort of a laid back backpacker beach atmosphere surrounded by the astoundingly clear water of the Mekong.

From Vientiane it took about 18 hours to get to the island, so I felt I deserved to lie down in a hammock reading books and drinking beer for the rest of the day. And the next day. And the day after that.

On my fourth day in the 4000 islands I finally did something: I rented a bike the rode the 5km to the huge series of waterfalls that prevents boats going down the Mekong, and the French railway that bypassed it in the colonial period. It is also the only railroad ever built in Laos unless you include toy railways. And you may as well: this thing, the engine at least, is smaller than most amusement park rides.

The waterfall was nothing special, except the series of waterfalls probably have more water going over them than any four waterfalls in Australia.

In six days on the island I managed to squeeze in not only the 2 hour waterfall trip, but also an hour paddling a canoe and a few games of everything!

I departed by boat on the sixth day with four others to Don Khong, which is more expensive, not as nice, and has electricity. We chartered another boat for the 6 hour trip to Pakse and spent six hours travelling in style; I spent half the time lying in a hammock watching the world go by.

Nearly everying I met in Pakse who had been to Don Det seemed to have gone there for a day or two and left a week later.

In Pakse I splurged $10 on a hotel with electricity, lights, aircon, TV, bathroom, hot water, glass windows, and no roosters living underneath. Luxury. I managed to sleep in until nearly 6:30am! That was the last of 48 nights in Laos until next time.



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