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Published: August 15th 2007
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Protected Area
You are now entering an NPA. A National Protected Area of jungle. How exactly it is protected I'm not sure. The vast majority of wildlife has already been eaten. Finding enough people to form a group to go trekking with when traveling by ones self can sometimes be a problem but this time I was fortunate to meet a great bunch of people at the guesthouse and more already signed up when we looked into the eco-treks around Luang Nam Tha.
There were eight of us in all, four lovely Israelis and four of us Europeans. I say the Israelis were lovely because by their own admission the Israelis have a bit of reputation for keeping to themselves. Two of them even decided to change their nationality on the booking because they were afraid nobody would want to join their tour! We laughed together at that but still they were determined to spread the word that not all Israelis are unfriendly. Personally I couldn't have met a nicer group and if the rumors are true they can't all be bad.
There isn't much else to do in Nam Tha other than go and explore the countryside and this particular trek is a great way to do just that. It is affordable and well organised. Money from the eco-trek actually goes back into the village and the environment so
Lovely Ladies
These sisters in traditional dress roamed Luang Nam Tha selling braclets and bags with humor and enthusiasm. It was virtually impossible to avoid buying something. that they also benefit. There are rules for both the tourists and the villagers that protect not only the surroundings and the people's way of life but also help to create sustainable tourism hopefully preventing it from becoming spoilt. The government in Laos is making a sizable effort to develop a sustainable tourism industry and that is a sensible move because so much of Laos's appeal lies in the people and their lifestyle. Their biggest problem however, as will all the SE Asian countries I visited, is the practise of large scale slash and burn. It pollutes the atmosphere and erodes the soil causing health issues, flooding and the destruction of the landscape's natural beauty and wildlife habitats. It does however produce valuable wood, areas to grow rice crops and quick growing tree plantations that provide resources to help fight poverty in the country. Within the last five years or so the country produced enough rice to feed their entire population and for the first time achieved self sustainability. Ultimately however if the destruction of rain forest, that is hundreds of thousands of years old continues, then it will lead to further problems in the future.
Our eco-trek started
Bikers
I met a group of people in and around the guest house and we all hired bikes to explore the beautiful surrounding countryside. out and finished with some prolonged hill walking; steep in places as we climbed over the hills around Luang Nam Tha. Our guides stopped frequently so that the group could catch their breath and take in the views. Being the dry season the jungle didn't feel particularly jungle like. More like an uninhabited forest in fact. But on the way back on the second day we trekked up through a gorge running with water that created an amazing jungle ecosystem and presumably this continues throughout the year. We arrived at the village after the first day and the first thing I did was cool off in the local river. Afterwards I explored the village and engaged with the local inhabitants as best I could. Most don't speak any English and seem quite reserved and shy but with some pointing and gestures I managed rudimentary conversation. We exchanged names and ages with the children and English words for various items or animals in pointing range. I found a group of teenagers playing Rattan Ball and asked if I could join their game. I soon picked up the basics and was able to serve the ball. One member of your team will
Making Paper
Pulp made from linen and cotton rags is poured onto a stretched canvas and dried by the sun to make paper. serve up the ball for you to kick over the net and from there it is very much like a game of volleyball except that we use our head and feet instead of arms and hands. Some action shots of professional players that I saw later revealed some astonishing gymnastic abilities picturing legs swinging high in the air as they performed ninja style moves on the ball. We were laughing and having fun at our obvious inability to play between the cheers when we made kicks that successfully sent the ball over the net! But it wasn't long before we managed to get some rallies going. Rattan ball I discovered is a very simple and enjoyable game to play and I reckon it could catch on!
For me the highlight of our trek was the evening meal as we savored the local delights made from truly traditional ingredients. Forest plants and trees combined with cultivated rice, vegetables and the product of raising domestic animals such as cockerels, pig and dog. We were spared the dog and the pigs are only slaughtered in times of need. However eggs were plentiful and a cockerel was sacrificed for our benefit right in
Waterfall
Me posing again for the camera front of our eyes. That sent the chicken soup beyond a few in the group and it didn't help that it appeared to have been diced from whole leaving in all the bones, gristle and god knows what else! But despite the looks we had a massive feast and I found it all surprisingly tasty.
For sleeping we were provided with mosquito nets and huddled together on our rough beds in our purpose built wooden hut for the night. The next day we were provided boiled river water for the journey back and set off early. It tasted awful but I wasn't ill and it was probably better than carting in several more litres of drinking water. We arrived back safely and despite roughing it considerably on our 2 day trek it was thoroughly enjoyable and a real eye opener into how the people live here. Anyone passing through this little town in the middle of nowhere should definitely check out the trekking options in the area and surrounding towns.
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Brian from Brighton
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Great instalment - i feel i was there
But are you sure you can eat the wooden bridges? Must be difficult to get about the place when people get hungry :o)