Phonsavan goes beyond its permanently linked relationship with the stone, hollow receptacles that divert visitors from a well-marked course between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. Those who call upon the provincial capital of Xing Kuong are well rewarded with a more pure and more easily accessible look at Laos. In all its simplicity, Phonsavan is a happy place and though difficult to imagine, even less stressful than points north. But for perhaps the raw fish at the food market, it is an odorless city of one main drag and a few unceremonious perpendicular streets, newly paved. Newer and sturdy buildings reflect the higher quality accommodations available. By and large, Laos’ government buildings have not embraced the stern and angular tone of Communist architecture. They are well maintained, airy, with outdoor second floor porches, which housekeeping staff keeps
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