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Published: April 11th 2008
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On Thursday, Rahat and I headed up the mountains to Al Archa, which is one of Kyrgyzstan’s national parks. As we drove higher and higher through the mountains, the temperature became much cooler and you could see the vegetation changing. In the lower mountains, trees are in full bloom and the temperature is about 60 degrees. As you head higher, however, there is still snow on the ground. Also, you see fewer people as you head higher. In the lower mountains, there are small, quaint villages. Few people, however, live high in the mountains. The views were amazing from both the lower and higher mountains. Huge, ragged, snowy mountains towered over us, no matter how high we drove. We never even got close to the highest point in the area. When we reached Al Archa, it was easy to see the western influence. After driving by a village in which most people lived by subsistence farming, and waiting for cows to cross the road, we passed by a fully modern North Face shop, which looks just like any North Face shop in America. Inside, they sell a variety of North Face backpacks, jackets, etc. It was hilarious to see that just
out of nowhere.
When we arrived at Al Archa, there was a hotel that looked remarkably like a Swiss Chalet. We took a tour of the place, since I thought it might be a nice place for people to stay if they come to visit Kyrgyzstan. Foreigners can rent a large two room area with a large bed, couches, refrigerator, tv, modern bathroom, a balcony looking out at the mountains for $100 a night. The quality is as good as you would expect from a Western hotel. There is also a restaurant which serves Kyrgyz and Europeans dishes for $3-$8 a plate.
We entered the park and hiked toward the taller mountains. It was absolutely gorgeous. There was hardly anyone there. There were only a few groups of Kyrgyz, who were having picnics. In Kyrgyzstan, gathering with your relatives to picnic in the mountains is very popular. Rahat and I climbed to an area by a river and had our own picnic.
When we returned to Bishkek, one of Rahat’s relatives invited us to come over to his house for dinner. I heard that he was better off than most Kyrgyz, but didn’t realize by how much until we arrived
at his house. The house is gated, and you have to speak into a machine at the gate before entering his property. His house is huge, beautifully decorated, and modern. In his basement, he has a large billiard table and a small private pool. There are also giant TVs in about every room. We came into his dinning room, which was easily the biggest dinning room I have ever been in. Across the length of the room, there was a huge, long table, which easily sat us and the other (about 15) adults. Kyrgyz have a tradition of having a huge family gathering about once a month, so they seem to put the table to good use. It was pilled with food. Various salads, fruits, candies, nuts were by each place setting. While we sat, the younger sons (6-9 years old) of Rahat’s relatives came to each of us with a warm tea pot, bowl and towel. One would pour the warm water over our hands, while another held the bowl underneath, and a third handed us a towel. Throughout dinner, the boys also came around to fill our glasses with juice. The kids were seated in another room, and
Kyrgyz yurts
Many people in Kyrgyzstan still live in traditional felt yurts year round. Here, you can see the homes of some Kyrgyz today. mostly just came into the dinning room to serve the adults. When they weren’t serving us, however, you could see them running around in the other room. Kids in Kyrgyzstan are taught to always treat adults with a lot of respect, and to do a lot more around the house than American kids, but the adults do little to interfere with their fun. No one ever scolded the kids for running around the house. The kids were also excited to practice their English with me, and tried to say something in English while they were serving me. A couple of them asked me to help them learn English.
After sitting for a while, and eating the salads (there were about 6 different types-carrot salad, beet salad, Chinese noodle salad, deviled eggs, etc) our hosts brought out the main dish-boiled lamb. They had this giant dish of chunks of lamb meat. I have never seen so much meat in my life. When they brought the dish to the table, they had a long discussion about who should get which part. Each part of the lamb means something, and it is always important to carefully consider who should get which part. They
gave me a large chunk of meat, which was definitely impossible to eat in one day. I was only able to eat a small portion of it. My host told me that eating meat is one of the things that is necessary in order to be Kyrgyz. He said it makes men strong, and helps women have many babies. Everyone delighted at the huge amount of meat at their place. Most Kyrgyz cannot afford to eat that much meat. The Krygyz say, however, that they ate a lot more meat during the Soviet Union, and ate even more before the Soviet Union (when they were still nomads).
As everyone became full, Rahat’s relatives started singing beautiful Kyrgyz songs. Kyrgyz in general have amazing voices, and I really enjoyed listening. Soon, Rahat’s uncle took out his komuz (Kyrgyz three stringed instrument) while another brought out a small instrument that you play in your mouth. They were amazing. Rahat’s relatives are very skilled at playing the komuz.
At the end of the meal, our hostess gave each person a plastic bag to package up the remains of our meat (which was most of our meat) to take home. I still have a
huge chunk of meat in my refrigerator, and I think it will take me a while to get through it.
When we left, my hostess gave me a small, beautifully painted sugar bowl for me to remember the night.
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Al Archa
Hello Genna, I trust all is well in Kyrgystan. I really enjoyed hearing of your travels to the mountains, your visit to Al Archa and your dinner with Rahat's relatives. I wish I could have been with you to enjoy the beautiful country and the friendly people of Kyrgyzstan. Perhaps someday soon I will be able to hike the mountains with you and Rahat. Keep up your blog- you have a real talent as a writier and perhaps you should think of an occupation that will enable you to use this ability. Best Wishes to all!