Fuji views with hot spiced wine and cheese fondue (2.-3. January 2009)


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March 10th 2009
Published: March 10th 2009
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The nicest views on Mount Fuji are in winter when the air is cold and dry with clear skies. We did several hikes were we could see Fuji behind several ridges of mountains, but none that was close to it with undisturbed views. The main snow had not arrived in January and we decided to organize an overnight hike to the Tanzawa mountain area. We were 5 people leaving in the morning from Shinjuku Highway bus station to Yamanoko lake (2h). Afterwards we squeezed into a taxi and took a 15 minute ride to a pass. There we started hiking on a path to the main ridge; slowly brilliant views on Fuji opened up. At day time it was comfortably warm, but we were prepared for evening temperatures around 0C. Luckily there was no ice on the ridge and hiking was easy. We had planned the hike to arrive at a not serviced mountain lodge around sunset time for the best views and the shortest waiting time before it got dark and cold. The lodge was near a 1348 m high mountain top which was supposed to offer the best views. We hiked slowly and realized after 2 hours we would be late on the top. This resulted in a race for the best sunset shots from the top. In the end we all made it in time as you can see from the one beautiful picture with us on the top and the last rays of the sun on Fuji. It felt very remote and wild and there were no other people around. Japanese people usually do not do such things like winter camping. It is just too cold. Some do day hikes, but only few. We met during these two days less than 10 people. And the mountain area is just 2 hours from Tokyo with a distance of less than 100 km and being on the city edge of Tokyo. Incredible, but that is Japan - full of people and wild at the same time. The alps are crowded in contrast with huts less than 2 hours apart.
We made ourself cozy in the hut on the wooden sleeping platform and started cooking. Yuki and me had prepared a special dinner with hot spiced wine German style (Gluehwein) followed by a Swisss cheese foundue. I can assure you, it tastes double good when you sit in a remote mountain hut with temperatures falling close to 0C. We had a nice evening until the girls first escaped the cold into the warm sleeping bags and we guys followed slowly.
The morning greeted us with a rumble and shuffle of Andy and Hannah who headed for the sunrise views. We others followed much later after the first cup of coffee and with warmer sunrays. Fuji is just stunning with the first snow on the top and the lower part with ashes and stones. We continued the ridge hike along several peaks before descending on a side ridge to the Tanzawa lake. The ridges are covered by pine trees and small bushes of mountain bamboo and it is like hiking along in a wild forest. It is possible to hike for 2-3 days from the west to the eastern part of the mountain area before the first suburbs of Tokyo are reached. We hit after 5 hours the road and met two mountain rangers. There were a little worried about us hiking along minor partially closed trails and warned us that every year several people get lost. Their job is to search the mountain for them - some are never found. They offered us a sip of snake wine and wasp liquor before giving us a lift to the next train station.
The hike was wonderful as a first year hiking experience and we were glad to have Andy, Peter and Hannah with us.

Practicalities:
Highway bus Tokyo/Shinjuku - Yamanoko lake 2000 Yen
Taxi Yamanoko lake to pass 1000 Yen
Mountain Lodge(no service) free
Odakyu line back to Tokyo around 1200 Yen



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11th March 2009

snake ?
Hello, Do you know where to find different Snake wine ? I already own this one: http://www.asiansnakewine.com Thanks for help. (by the way I found your website on Google when looking for Snake wine bottles)
18th March 2009

Snake wine
Thank you for reading our Travel blog. We do not know any other snake wine. It was only chance we had it. You can travel to Dalat in Vietnam. There are lots of snake wine at souvenir stores. Sorry not helpful. Joerg and Yuki

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