While looking at a map researching places to visit between Tokyo and Kyoto, my eyes honed in on Lake Biwa. Much to my surprise, I learned that one of Japan’s famed cat islands was on that lake. I was wary about such places; I knew that the most famous cat island in Japan was swarming with cats while their human population was in decline, and I suspected that visiting such a place may be somewhat depressing. Nevertheless, I researched further, and found that Okishima Island still has quite a few human residents - about 350, apparently descended from a band of banished samurai - and that the place wasn’t overrun with cats. I knew we had to make a pit stop there. On the afternoon of March 19th, Jeff and I set off from Tokyo station
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